Snapped the dreaded Mercruiser transom Drive Lube Fitting....

[IQRaceworks]

Well, I noticed a small leaking coming out of the Bravo 3 drive on my 99' Crownline 248BR. I saw that the small rubber hose that goes between the transom fitting and the drive had a crack on it, any was dripping drive lube. I read up on all the info I could find on replacing that hose and the one thing that everyone said was "the transom fitting is plastic.....DON'T BREAK IT when you are trying to remove the old hose.
Well....I thought I had the rubber line cut lengthwise where it attaches to the barbed end on the fitting where the hose would come off easy.....nope, the stupid thing snapped right of!!! Crap!

So now I'm stuck with trying to attempt to swap out that transom lube fitting. I got up under the engine hatch (good lord is it tight), and I can just barely get my head back under there enough to where I can see that fitting. I have no idea how I'm going to be able to reach it.

For those of you who have done this...any tips or tricks? I think I'm going to have to pull the steering cylinder and linkage off in order to have more access to the area I need to get my hand through to get to that fitting. Why in the world did Mercruiser make that fitting out of plastic!!

Any advice would be great!

 

[Bondo]

Any advice would be great!

Ayuh,...... It gets worse, you need to acess the other side of that fitting to change it,.....
If the bellows haven't been changed in a few years, you might want to combine the tasks, as the drive, 'n helmet both have to come off, to change that fitting,....

 

[Scott Danforth]

Why in the world did Mercruiser make that fitting out of plastic!!

because its cheap and would last about 15 years, well past the warranty period.

 

[IQRaceworks]

Ayuh,...... It gets worse, you need to acess the other side of that fitting to change it,.....
If the bellows haven't been changed in a few years, you might want to combine the tasks, as the drive, 'n helmet both have to come off, to change that fitting,....

Thanks for the info. So that plastic fitting doesn't have enough room to slide out without taking the drive and gimble housing out? That stinks. Getting to the other side of that fitting where that clip is that holds it in is going to be a royal pain...think I might have to take some of the steering cylinder parts off to get to it. Not looking forward to that job......ugh.

 

[IQRaceworks]

because its cheap and would last about 15 years, well past the warranty period.

Well, mine lasted 26yrs before I started yanking on it and broke it....so I guess I can't complain. It sure sounds like the hardest parts is actually getting to the fitting on the inside of the boat behind the motor.....I can barely see it, let along access it with my hand.

 

[Grub54891]

Been there done that! You have to go by feel mostly. If you can get a camera that you can see the fitting without dropping the camera, like tie it off somewhere it’s sort of helpful. Not perfect but it slightly helps. I’ve dropped the clip more than once! They do make a brass fitting for that drive that’s a bit more durable.

 

[IQRaceworks]

Been there done that! You have to go by feel mostly. If you can get a camera that you can see the fitting without dropping the camera, like tie it off somewhere it’s sort of helpful. Not perfect but it slightly helps. I’ve dropped the clip more than once! They do make a brass fitting for that drive that’s a bit more durable.

Yeah, I used my little camera on the endoscope I have and it was the only way I could really see it. There is just so much stuff in the way. I think I might need to pull the coolant hose off that's right above it, and then also pull the steering cylinder off, or at least out of the way.

Once I get that clip off so that I can pull the fitting out towards the drive side...is there enough clearance to get it all the way out....or does the drive and gimble housing need to come off to replace that fitting?

 

[Bondo]

or does the drive and gimble housing need to come off to replace that fitting?

Yes,.....

 

[IQRaceworks]

Yes,.....

Thanks. I just wanted to make sure since there seems to be a lot of contradicting info out there. Some people have said that there is enough clearance to push it out the back without pulling the drive an gimble housing off...I guess not.

 

[muc]

Yup, this job sucks! Here are my tricks.
1/2" drill bit from the outside of the boat, (MerCruiser was nice enough to put a little dimple right in the middle) drill until the head snaps off (don't damage the gimbal housing) now push the stem that's left into the boat. This will make it much easier to save the c clip and disconnect the lube line. Now oil up the new fitting and push it in. Now find a long flat head screwdriver and bend it as needed to push the clip back on. Grease the clip and stick it right above the fitting in the flat area. Now (very important) get someone to push the new fitting in from outside the boat. Use the screw driver that you heated and bent to push the clip into place.

Good heavy and sticky grease is your friend.

And yes you might as well replace the bellows and shift cable while you're in this deep. Maybe even the trim sender/limit. But those are pretty easy to do without pulling the drive.

 

[Bt Doctur]

I have replaced it without removing the housing or drive Turned fully to the post side there is JUST enough room.
Easiest way I have found is remove the manifold, the pin going to the steering arm (A PITA) , remove the locking tabs from the cylinder mounting bolts, possible using a adjustable till the tab is lifted, then a socket.Then you turn,twist, wiggle the cylinder out of the way leaving the steering cable attached. Using a VERY long set of needle nose remove the E clip. push plastic tube out to the rear and remove

To install the Eclip tie a thin piece of thread (NOT STRING) to is so it doesent fly away or drop to the bottom of the bilge.push on till seated
Hope this helps

 

[IQRaceworks]

Great news! I was able to get up under the engine hatch on the port side. Wiggled up under there as far as I could and was able to get those two bolts out of the water fitting right above the lube fitting. With that out of the way I've not a nice and clear view of that fitting. I could reach in and undo the quick-disconnect that clips onto the end of the tube. After that I needed a break for the night. Now I just have to get back up under there, and try to get the clip off of the fitting so that I can push it out. I went ahead and ordered a Michigan Marine brass lube line fitting....figured might as well, I don't ever want to have to do this again. I'm thinking that with the drive tilted all the way up and turned to the side, there might be just enough clearance to slide that old plastic fitting out without having to pull the drive. Thanks for all the tips on getting the clip back on the fitting...I think that's going to be the trickiest part.

Keeping my fingers crossed I can replace that fitting and possibly have the boat ready for fathers day weekend!

https://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Transom-Reservoir-Assembly-22-861150T02/dp/B09DQ71TQN

 

[Jmunk]

When I changed out my bellows and gear line fitting I used a long pick to remove the e-clip. For reinstallation I tied a piece of thread to it so it wouldn’t fly away trying to get it on. I used a telescoping pen magnet and put the clip on the magnet and was able to maneuver it into place and then used a long flat head screwdriver to push it onto the fitting. Cut the thread and was done. That’s just what worked for me.

 

[Grub54891]

I could never get a magnet to stick to that clip. It's stainless. Where do I get a magnet for stainless?

 

[Jmunk]

The telescoping pen magnets I have stuck fine to it. Most of the stainless fasteners used on my Sea Ray are low grade stainless and fairly magnetic.