snowblower engine problem

[PmDavis300]

i have a snowblower i aquired for $50 that ran fine for a while after i put new gas in it, then i was running it for a while yesterday and it started sputtering then died. i checked plug, no spark. got a new plug still no spark, i can feel the spark if i touch the wire lead and ground my hand, but something is wrong. where should i begin to correct this problem?

 

[Splat]

Re: snowblower engine problem

Coil prolly died.

Make sure the sparkplug wire isn't chafed and grounded out somewhere on the engine. Around the engine cowl is a prime place for this to happen.

Remove the small black wire from the coil and test for spark again. This wire is the kill wire. If you have spark with the wire removed you have a wiring issue, either its chafed and grounded or whatever.

If no spark is present with the kill wire disconnected than you can try to check the gap between the flywheel magnets and the pickup on the coil, if that doesn't work than the coil is bad.

Just some food for thought. Many coils will only fail when they are hot. So don't be surprised if you try it today and it runs for a good 5-10 minutes then dies again due to lack of spark, that's a sure fire test that you'll know its bad.

Bill

 

[PmDavis300]

Re: snowblower engine problem

what do i check for when i look at the gaps between the magnets and the pickup? check for rust, crap in between them? or just make sure the gap distance is correct?

 

[j_martin]

Re: snowblower engine problem

A snow thrower motor normally has 5 weight oil in it and shrouds to limit cooling, assuming it's going to be running in it's own homemade blizzard.

Don't run it for a long time in the summer.

hope it helps
John

 

[Splat]

Re: snowblower engine problem

You'll want to check for mainly the gap between the magnet on the flywheel and the coil. I believe the gap should be .010 of an inch. A few sheets of paper (like 3) or a old piece of micro fische will work fine for a feeler gauge.

Also check to make sure ther are no magnets missing. Rust on the flywheel is normal, although some will argue you should knock the rust off with sandpaper, if the magbets are clean your fine.

If you adjust the gap, make sure the sparkplug wire is off(so the engine won't start) and spin the flywheel by hand a few times to ensure there is sufficent gap for the magnets to pass without touching.

Bill

 

[PmDavis300]

Re: snowblower engine problem

ok well i ended up buying an electronic ignition instead of the standard coil, it works well, except that the engine is backfiring a little. it was dusk when i started the engine and i could see some flame spitting out of the exhaust every time it back fired which was maybe 1 time each second. when i turned it off, the inside of the muffler was glowing red from heat. i know i made a mistake in gaping the coil, i used a normal sheet of paper to gap it, when i should have used a thicker peice of paper that came with the coil that was .010 in thick. is this my problem or is something else making it back fire like that?

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: snowblower engine problem

It's more than likely a Tecumseh engine.
The problem now sounds like you need to adjust the timing. I have no idea of the procedure, but it should be in a Tecumseh manual if you can find one....or the instructions that came with the new ignition components.
Those coils are almost indestructible, and i would have been more suspiocious of the points or the condensor.

 

[PmDavis300]

Re: snowblower engine problem

actually its a briggs and straton. but yes it was the points, they apparently get oily. but i also thought it may be a timing issue, but i was messing with the choke and when i choked it about half way it ran great, so i realized it was just running lean. i have since adjusted the high speed needle valve and it runs like a song now. thanks for the help