So far not good / F90 Timing Belt - Valve ck

[Kanadakid]

Gents,

I'm posting my progress of this job so that others may benefit from my learning curve.

Well I though I had everything buttoned down to do this job. Not!

These are my Awe S__ts so far.

1) Flywheel holding tool I have doesn't really fit. I can angle it so that the pins on one side hold somewhat, The pins are not a snug fit. At 140 Ft lbs. I'm not feeling to good about doing the job this way with a poor fitting tool.

I also have a very good strap wrench but I think not.

Going to call dealer tomorrow and find our how much the Yamaha tool is.
YB- 06139/90890/06522.

Probably a fortune !! Anyone want to guess. I'll say $80.00.

2) After removing the flywheel cover, I found and enormous flywheel nut
underneath. I have big sockets but nothing as big as this bad boy.

I will check with a dealer tomorrow for the correct socket size. It is larger than 1 1/4 inch.

3) Found a go no go feeler guage. However it is not in all the exact
thicknesses I need. But close. I will use a combination of guages to
figure out the the specs.

4) From this point it looks like one of two of my pullers with work at properly
pulling the flywheel. One has 3 bolts the other has 2 but think they
either will fit ok. We will see when we get there.

5) Learned that Yamaha has special gasket sealer for the valve cover.
Yamabond #4.
Yamaha was no help in providing a reliable substitute or equivalent.

I plan on using Permatex sensor safe, Ultra grey, Ridgid high tourqe, RTV
sealer.

Boys, I truly hope that my valves are within tolerance. Reading some of the
posts from Rodbolt and others that it is rare to have a valve out of spec is most encouraging to me. Especially under 500 hours.

I really really don't want to pull out the cam shaft/ s.

The good news is that I don't have to pull the cam pully's to remove the valve cover.

Timing belt. Looks perfect, not worn or missing any cogs. But it is 5 years old and I have a new one.....so it's going on anyway.

Tomorrow, get the big socket and holding tool. Perhaps I try to post some pics.


Kid

 

[sunbird 18]

Re: So far not good / F90 Timing Belt - Valve ck

I hope you have a mean flywheel puller too if the F90 uses a tapered crank. Maybe a silly question, but why do you need to pull the flywheel to change the timing belt. The belt cant fit over it? Blocking access?

 

[Kanadakid]

Re: So far not good / F90 Timing Belt - Valve ck

Sun,

Yes the belt is far under the flywheel. The puller bolts (3) onto the flywheel and a center bolt pulls it up evenly. You also need to remove the belt tensioner.

Kid

 

[rodbolt]

Re: So far not good / F90 Timing Belt - Valve ck

regular high temp silicone will work fine.
your only going to use a dab at each upper corner by the cam seals.
DO NOT coat the entire gasket or it WILL leak.
with a piece of 1/4 or 3/8ths by 1 to 1.5 wide steel stock about 3ft long,a hacksaw, a drill and a couple of 5/16ths or 3/8ths nuts and bolts a holder for both the cam sprockets and flywheel can be made on the back porch.
I did it in the jungle 275 miles southwest of caracas VE.
cant remember the nut size as I simply grab the one that fits out of my box .
for flywheel puller bolts I use the head bolts from a junk v4-v6 2 stroke yamaha.
your making this a lot harder than it actually is .
you will need the 3 bolt puller.
trust me.
intake lash is .008" plus or minus .001". cold.
so simply use a .010 and .006 feeler gage.
one goes the other wont go on to the next one.
would I pull a cam for .001"? most likly not.
if the .006 goes its ok on the tight end if the .010 wont go its ok on the loose end. do the same with the ex using a .015 and a.011.
whats funny is the 05 EFI F90 uses the same block and head design yet a slightly different lash spec.
go figgure.
do a good decarb before checking lash as any carbon on a valve face will give a false loose lash reading.

 

[Kanadakid]

Re: So far not good / F90 Timing Belt - Valve ck

The flywheel nut is ether a 1 1/2 in or 37MM ?

not sure which.


Kid

 

[Kanadakid]

Re: So far not good / F90 Timing Belt - Valve ck

Rodbolt,

The timing marks are not lining up. I will take some pics so you can see what I mean. They look more than one cog off.




Don / Kid

 

[rodbolt]

Re: So far not good / F90 Timing Belt - Valve ck

I got a better solution.
drag it here ,once its warm, buy my refeshing beverages and ill tell you when your scewing up.
if your married, bring the wife. yours and mine can go shopping and it will give me another excuse why I am not at the YMCA with her.
I am rapidly running out.
from your posts your scared which means your in over your head.
second fallacy is fear.
also be aware no dealer stocks shims in this area.

 

[Kanadakid]

Re: So far not good / F90 Timing Belt - Valve ck

Rodbolt,

You know I would love to do that. I am being very cautious as I don't want to damage anything.

I just did a timing belt on my sons Hyudai.....I know outboards are different.

I was a little shocked to find the timing marks not lining up tonight.
When putting on the new belt I can slightly adjust the cams so they line up?

Here is a pic.

We will definantely hook up in August.

Thanks

Kid

 

[Kanadakid]

Re: So far not good / F90 Timing Belt - Valve ck

Timing Belt is done, but was not that easy, simple yes, easy no, let me explain.

1) The Fly wheel nut on top is a 36MM or 1 5/8th nut. A big one!!!
2) Fly wheel holder screwed into the flywheel with a pipe on it, 2 guys, couldn't break the nut. The screws actually started bending. Out cam the 3/4 drive 50lb ingersol rand impact gun. Bing !! OFF !

Tip, mark the top of the crankshaft and the nut with a line. The nut takes 140 ft lbs and it difficult to get that much back force on the flywheel holder.

Get it tight as possible with the flywheel holder, then hit it with a smaller impact gun until the old marks line up on the crank and the nut.

3) The flywheel TDC did not match the TDC on the Crank pulley. Crank pulley mark alighned with the mark on the block was TDC. Flywheel TDC way off.

Don't know how that happened but has to be a factory issue.

4) Flywheel is a knuckle buster ! Rodbolt was straight up about needing the 5) bolt puller. It took more than I thought to pop the flywheel off.

6) Clymers book has an error in it. It says to put the tensioner on and tighten it down to 85 ft lbs, then put the spring on. This of course defeats the whole purpose of the spring. So put the springon first to let it pull the tensioner against the belt, then tighten the tensioner bolt.

THERE IS NO WAY YOU COULD GET THE FLYWHEEL NUT OFF WITH A STRAP WRENCH !!!

Get a good flywheel holder !
1 5/8th or 36mm socket
You may need a decent impact gun

I hope this is helpful to someone.


KId

 

[mdunn]

Re: So far not good / F90 Timing Belt - Valve ck

Rodbolt,

You know I would love to do that. I am being very cautious as I don't want to damage anything.

I just did a timing belt on my sons Hyudai.....I know outboards are different.

I was a little shocked to find the timing marks not lining up tonight.
When putting on the new belt I can slightly adjust the cams so they line up?

Here is a pic.

We will definantely hook up in August.

Thanks

Kid

Hey Kid,
I'm doing my timing belt on my F115 and seeing the same thing as your picture of your cam sprockets. Although mine are not quite as far off.
I was very carefull to not move anything when replacing the belt but everything is just a little off.
What was your solution?
Did you realign with the belt off?
Thanks