So it begins - casting deck first

[Barlow]

I got it home ... <br />

work has slowed a bit so I (partially) took yesterday and today off and started on the casting deck. I removed all hardware that needed to be replaced or just junked - deck lid w/carpet and other misc. objects... more like 50lbs of mostly saturated dirt, grime, rotten unidentifiable objects, a herb garden the previous owner had started and close to 10lbs of various lead weights, jigs from 1/64 -1.5oz., rapalas, swedish ****les, erie-dieries, floats, hooks, swivels, knives, plier(s), the list goes on .. did i mention the old sterring cable?? <br /><br />what was revealed to me was a few broken aluminum supports and now the project is at a stand-still until I cypher this out. Here are a few pics on the matter at hand... first three are of the casting deck center support. Last two are of the main deck support below the casting deck...<br />

<br /> <br /><br />Weld?? I'm thinking not since this stuff has been stressed out.. but I'm no guru.<br />Replace?? Specifically on the casting deck member for now - if so would a few pieces of 2" angle sistered together like a 'T' work?<br /> <br />Going out to cut the ply right now.<br /><br />Thanks Again everyone for the encouragement and help thus far!! -barlow-<br /><br />"I KNOW IT'S HERE .. I PUT THAT WRENCH DOWN JUST A SECOND AGO!!

 

[Barlow]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

had to remove pics from first post for some reason ...<br />

 

[JasonJ]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

I say weld if you have access, or you can marry it together rivet style. I'm still envious....

 

[Winger Ed.]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

On things like that, when the factory bent and shaped it, a weak spot ocurs at the bend. That's why they always seem to break at the bend.<br /><br />In years past, I've had good luck with taking 2 pieces of Alum. maybe a bit thicker than the brace you're fixing now, and bending them to fit and use them over AND under the part, using the original rivet holes to put everything back together. Or, if its an honest 90 degree angle, get some angle stock that is about 3" x 3" or so, and use it--- also doubled, one on each side of the break.<br /><br />And when you rivet the brace back together, put a generous blob of JB weld all in between everything to help stabilize it. <br /><br />That has worked well for me on lots of stuff.<br /><br /><br />Welding it is no big deal, if you'll pay the shipping both ways, send it down and I'll weld the ends back on the braces,,,,, but I think they'd crack & break again right beside the weld because the metal just needs to be 'beefier' and thicker right there.<br /><br />...<br /><br />Another idea is to get some 1/16th or a little thicker sheet. Cut 6" or so strips a bit wider than your brace. Heat them a little with a propane torch, then bend them to fit under the broken parts. The ole' bench vice and big hammer technique works well. <br /><br />Rivet them to the hull under your broken brace, then rivet the broken brace to the strip. The bend will stand more stress & weight on it if it is under compression rather then trying to hang from the 'tab' that rivets to the hull.<br /><br />..<br /><br />I don't know what your situation is up there, but I"ve got a bunch of 1/16th sheet left over from the hydro. If ya need 'em, send me a email or a address & I'll send ya some envelope size pieces to make your patches with the next day. A pound of these should be a life time supply of brace repair strips, and shouldn't cost 2 bucks to mail.<br /><br />And rivets too. I found a deal in our local salvage yard. Some window manufacturing company went bust. They took a pallet--- about a ton of 3/16ths hole size Alum. rivets with a Alum. mandrel packed in boxes of 500 to the scrap yard.......<br /><br />The scrap yard dude was selling them for $5. a box, both in 1/4" grip range, and 1/2" grip. <br /><br />For myself, I bought about as many as I could carry, and have 4-5 boxes left over. If ya need one or two--- I'll pass them along for the same deal I got.<br /><br />Ed.<br /><br /><br />I have to add:<br /><br />Darn that's a kicka$$ boat. <br /><br />You know I do a lot of missionary work with un-wed NFL Cheerleaders.<br /><br />It'd be great to take that boat out in about 10' seas to hold some of our Bible study classes.<br /><br /><br />har, har, har,,,

 

[gewf631]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

Is there any way to brace to the lower ribs? Instead of bracing all the way across the span, can you insert a vertical brace or two in the middle?<br /><br />That's what Starcraft did on most of the models I've seen - the only cross-wise bracing is between the plywood to keep the 2 pieces from flexing separate.<br /><br /> This link has a few pics showing that idea.<br /><br />This support is really no different than a building - the longer the span the greater the stress. Put a support in the middle and you've solved part of your problem!

 

[mellowyellow]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

nice thick aluminum L brackets?<br /> http://www.layline.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ll1005 <br />do a search under aluminum extrusions. any shape<br />or size you'll ever need.

 

[Barlow]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

wow!! .. thanx for the replies guys ..but gotta get back to respond in a bit - just needed to verify my existence here.

 

[hayhauler]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

I'm no expert, on boats, but I've done some aluminum construction. I believe what I would do is get some thick wall 2" x 2" aluminum tubing and cut it to fit (- 1/2")in the right places. Then I would get some 1/4" aluminum plate and have a good tig (or mig) welder weld the plate over the end of the 2" x 2". I'd use heavy pop rivits to secure it in place.<br /><br />Great boat, by the way.

 

[Barlow]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

Pardon the delayed response guys. Thanx again! <br /><br /> <br /><br />JasonJ - I just have this feeling I'm gonna be the one to run into a decent 18' hull sooner or later so be ready for it .. thanks! (no promises tho ). Thinkin' I could get it out as far as Huron, South Dakota when I head out bird hunting if the hull ever shows itself and the situation arrises ... just talkin' now of course. <br /><br />I stopped in and chewed the fat with a family friend that owns a metal roof and fabrication shop and says that the welding of the old rib wouldn't be worth it, much to the effect of what Winger Ed. said ... and had no spare aluminum heavy enough that would work. So went to the recycling/scrap yard in town and gave my order to one of the buyers which told me to ring him back this afternoon then, gave me a price of $0.80 per lb. <br /><br />So, I've got that going for me right now. <br /><br />Ed F - Thanx, that's a good idea and one I've actually thought about but, came to the conclusion there is limmited storage space in this 'water buggy' and want to keep obstructions at the very minimum under the deck. I've got alot of fishing junk!! <br /><br />MY - good idea thanks .. going to utilise that for the temp repair of the main floor support since I won't be ripping the main floor out until this winter looks to be the best way to 'sneak' between the existing broken brace and where it is attatched to the hull... thanx again!<br /><br />hayhauler - that's what I'm hoping for but a bit larger 3"-4" top and want to keep the depth between 2"&3" for the space issue.<br /><br /><br />Winger Ed. - YOU DA MAN! .. thanks a bunch!! I won't know about the strapping until I here back from the scrap yard but, I'll bite like an angry aligator on the rivets!!! everything I've seen so far has been in lots of 20 for around 3$ and even then finding a rivet, sizeable enough with the alum. mandel is prooving frustrating!! How do you want to work this?? I can get cash in the mail as soon as I know where to send it. interested in what you've got available (and won't put you out if you part with it) cause I'm not sure what I'm going to run into this winter when I rip into it. by the way that front lower support showed itself I'm thinking there may be more to come.<br /><br />tj _ kinder @ hotmail . com (no spaces of course)<br /><br />Thanks a million Ed. for the offer!! Much appreciated!<br /><br /><br />I'll know later today from the scrap yard situation so I'm on the 'replacement theory' at the moment until i hear otherwise..<br /><br />THANX AGAIN ALL!!<br /><br /> hmmmm... missionary work eh?? .. ooohhh the sacrifices we make!! I bet the rewards of your sacrifices and staying 'the course' are very fulfilling!!! <br /><br />Need a Deacon to help navigate and assist in your struggles???

 

[Winger Ed.]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

Originally posted by Barlow:<br /> on the rivets

Send me a email at 'henderson526@ev1.net' with a address. I'm off Monday, but I'll get a box of 500 - 1/4" and 500- 1/2" grip range (that go into a 3/16ths hole) headed your way on the little brown truck Tue. morning. <br /><br />My neighbor at work is a UPS shipping point, and gets a break on the cost of sending stuff UPS. <br /><br />I don't see it being over $15 total, shipping & all. Or about $10 if ya just want about 1/2 a box of each. <br /><br />Don't matter to me, I"ve got about 3,000 of these things left over, and I"ll never use more than a few hundred in the next several years.<br /><br />I'll get back over to that scrap yard in about 2 weeks. If anyone else needs a box or so, I'll see if he's still got some and pick 'em up. <br /><br />Ed.

 

[Barlow]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

check your mail Ed. thanx again!!!

 

[Barlow]

Re: So it begins - casting deck first

^ <br /><br />Winger Ed ... you ok? ... sent an e-mail with address ... and wondering if you have gotten it.