So let me get this straight.....

wired247

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
1,557
Re: So let me get this straight.....

Iv'e checked mine and I can only speak from the 5-6 motors Ive tested this on over the last couple of years but in the ones Ive done the timing was all in by 1500-1800 RPM running with carb butterflies closed. Timing at full RPM was no different than running with carbs disconnected and throttle linkage fully advanced.

With the the Reeves method you are turning the motor over with the plugs out and wires grounded. Its a good method for getting a baseline with a new build but I never did like not knowing how much timing I was actually using when I started cutting the snot out of heads. 2-4 degrees is a huge spread with 32 CC heads on a 2.5 or 28 CC on a 2.0.

Then I started using a cut prop in a barrel which was loud as hell and made a huge mes to get high RPM advance numbers. I found I was getting the same numbers disconnecting the carbs and advancing the timing base to the stops with the motor running and it was a lot quieter and faster and less stressful.
 
Last edited:

AChotrod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 25, 2013
Messages
382
Re: So let me get this straight.....

My manual says set it at 2 but may end up 2-6* after setting it
 

wired247

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
1,557
Re: So let me get this straight.....

My manual says set it at 2 but may end up 2-6* after setting it

Sorry. We were talking about setting the WOT timing. There is a method called the Reeves method where you set the WOT timing with the starter cranking the motor and carbs and throttle controls full forward. The 2-4 degrees is the difference between what you find doing it the reeves way and what actual WOT timing is.

Like I said before, pay no attention to what your idle timing is. It just needs to idle in the water in gear at a specified RPM and it doesnt really matter what that timing advance number is to get it there.
 

AChotrod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 25, 2013
Messages
382
Re: So let me get this straight.....

Ah. Thanks again for the help here. Its the first time Ive really worked on a O/B. Parts got here today so Im going to try and skip out of work early grab them at the Post office and go to work.

Now since the motor will be running is it ok to time it on muffs?
 

wired247

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Oct 8, 2011
Messages
1,557
Re: So let me get this straight.....

Yes. I do have to ask. Why are you changing parts?

Ah. Thanks again for the help here. Its the first time Ive really worked on a O/B. Parts got here today so Im going to try and skip out of work early grab them at the Post office and go to work.

Now since the motor will be running is it ok to time it on muffs?
 

AChotrod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 25, 2013
Messages
382
Re: So let me get this straight.....

When I bought the boat the previous owner thought there was a problem with the kill switch since it wouldnt get spark sometimes. Well I had the boat out a few times and all went well. Then one day it wouldnt start. Start checking things out and it had no spark or very little spark every once in a while but not enough to fire. So I bypassed the kill switch at the console and no change, unhooked the black/yellow wire at the switch box no change. So I knew it wasnt the switch. After that I decided I would just replace all the ignition for pc of mind. Could prob just replace the stator but figured while I was in there I would do it all. Didnt want to fix one thing then have another fail.
 

jbjennings

Captain
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
3,903
Re: So let me get this straight.....

Iv'e checked mine and I can only speak from the 5-6 motors Ive tested this on over the last couple of years but in the ones Ive done the timing was all in by 1500-1800 RPM running with carb butterflies closed. Timing at full RPM was no different than running with carbs disconnected and throttle linkage fully advanced.

With the the Reeves method you are turning the motor over with the plugs out and wires grounded. Its a good method for getting a baseline with a new build but I never did like not knowing how much timing I was actually using when I started cutting the snot out of heads. 2-4 degrees is a huge spread with 32 CC heads on a 2.5 or 28 CC on a 2.0.

Then I started using a cut prop in a barrel which was loud as hell and made a huge mes to get high RPM advance numbers. I found I was getting the same numbers disconnecting the carbs and advancing the timing base to the stops with the motor running and it was a lot quieter and faster and less stressful.

Thanks for the response... I am going with your method when I set mine! Makes sense.
 

AChotrod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 25, 2013
Messages
382
Re: So let me get this straight.....

Bought the wrong stator somehow so Im going to pick the right one up tomorrow. I did change the switch box, regulator and trigger and it had no change. So only thing left is put in the stator and time it. Bad part is the correct stator is 2.5hrs away.
 

AChotrod

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 25, 2013
Messages
382
Re: So let me get this straight.....

Drove for 6hrs today to get the part but the boat starts like a champ now, timing is set and Im ready to fish! :)
 
Top