Solas props

craze1cars

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Re: Solas props

At lower engine speeds it had to be even lower slip numbers with the solas, because at 2500 cruise if you try to accelerate fast it would almost kill the engine. .

I think you have a factor here that you're blaming on the prop, that's not really a prop issue...because a prop would never cause what you describe here. BUT a 4bbl carb that does not have secondary flaps adjusted for the intended load will cause EXACTLY what you describe here. And going from being properly propped to being over-propped will exaggerate/reveal the problem because it adds substantially to the load on the engine by lugging it hard at low RPMS. It's basically a lean bog. The bigger & heavier your load, and the harder your prop bites, the more critical it is to slow down the openings of the secondary flaps, especially at low RPMS. On a Holley with vacuum secondary throttle plate you buy a spring kit and go to stiffer springs for the bellows, trial and error until you find the spring that gives you the best performance. On a Quadrajet with mechanical secondary throttle plates you will have some adjustment on adding a bit of spring tension for the secondary air flap, or if that's not enough maybe the vacuum choke pull-off needs to be adjusted by adding a restriction to the vaccum hose to slow down the release of the pull-off (choke pull-off has 2 jobs...it continues to control secondary air flap speed on a Qjet after it is done releasing your choke from cold starts)...to get rid of a bog you may need to add a second or so to the choke pull-off release time.

Other carbs adjust this differently. All that matters is that if you don't have these things set properly for your load, the air flap slaps open too quickly when you hammer the throttle at low rpms, which lets in a huge rush of air without enough time for the fuel to wick up and get mixed properly...resulting in a classic lean secondary bog where the boat falls flat on its face and stumbles...and then the fuel eventually catches up with the airflow and it takes off correctly after the "bog" is past. This is what many people describe as "feeling the secondaries kick in" is simply a classic description of an improperly tuned carb. You should NEVER "feel" the secondaries kick in on any 4 bbl carb. It should be smooth/fast/even power.

I'm not saying you need to adjust your carb for the Solas prop you had, because the Solas prop was obviously of incorrect pitch. But if you DID adjust the secondaries to open slower and not let in a big rush of air, you would not have experienced the "almost killed the engine" as you described. So really the prop indeed caused this, but only because the carb wasn't adjuster to handle the heavy load of that particular prop. So if you eventually find a prop that is of correct pitch, and it bites hard enough that you are still getting a lean secondary bog, it is entirely possible that you might just need to slow down the air introduction into the secondary side of the carb to get peak performance and good throttle response out of that particular prop. This is VERY VERY common when people put 4bbl carbs on boats. Most come out of the box with secondary flaps that open too quickly. I have no idea if your 4bbl is factory or not, or if it has been adjusted in any way.

Light cars with gears can get by with very loose secondary settings (fast opening). Heavy boats with hard biting props and no gears generally need much slower settings on the secondary side to avoid a bog. Many tuners don't get this concept and live with a boat that has a bog every time you slam the throttle open, car guys especially have difficulty understanding why their boat bogs, with similar setups on their hot-rod runs great...

And MAYBE...instead of messing with air flaps your accelerator pump just needs to be set to deliver a larger squirt than it does. That is another bog reduction adjustment. Some carbs have adjustments & options for this via linkage. Some do not. Depends entirely on what kind of carb you have how to get rid of a lean secondary bog, which is what you describe above.

Summary of what you need to do: Choose a prop first based on WOT RPM and overall handling characteristics. And don't worry about it if it causes a bog at part-throttle hammer-down, because this can be dialed out with a little carb tuning if you decide you like everything else about the prop.
 
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MBAKER

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Re: Solas props

yeah i see what your saying. Its an Edelbrock 1409 (marine) carb. Accelerator pump is set to deliver the most amount of fuel. There really is no adjustment to the air flap since its counterweighted, out side of locking it shut that is. I used it to replace a 2 barrel mercarb and so far have loved the way it runs, idles way better and more consistent than the mercab and response off idle is better..... as long as you dont bog it down..lol.
 

craze1cars

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Re: Solas props

I'm generally not a fan of that carb for marine use. It's just too generic. But there are always adjustments available, you just might need to get more creative when dealing with a more "fixed" design like these are. Add counter-weight by adding material (epoxy chunks of something to wherever they fit...or drill & tap to add plugs of heavier material than whatever the weight is made out of...etc), or you can remove counterweight by drilling holes. I quickly Googled a couple discussions describing secondary mods and how this could work:
Edelbrock carb tuning - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/edelbrock-1409-a-429895.html

Also Edelbrock part number 1464 is a set of step-up tuning springs on the primary side which might also help you by trying a stiffer spring. It will allow more fuel more quickly into the primary circuit upon sudden low vacuum situations like slamming the throttle open. Might give you just a little earlier fuel shot and just enough to dial out a bog, but I would feel better figuring that solution out on the secondary side moreso than the primary side. You never know till you try though.

And...you may just need to richen up the secondary side of things with one of their calibration kits. Presumably you have owners manual (linked below) and the last many pages show all kinds of charts of the stock settings and ranges of rich/lean you can reach if you use their kits and basically rejet:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/pdf/carb_owners_manual.pdf

But I admit I have no firsthand experience with that particular type of system in tuning an Edelbrock because I generally avoid carbs that have relatively fixed secondary air flap opening rates...easy fine-tune adjustments are mandatory IMO for just about every vehicle, and that's more difficult to do on a carb like this. So best would be to contact Edelbrock tech support, which is generally very savvy, and get their recommendation of how to tune out a specific problem.

Obviously this all may be moot and unnecessary and the carb may be perfectly fine. Step 1 is still to land on a prop you like first in the proper pitch. Entirely possible if you have a prop that allows the boat into the proper RPM range first, your carb won't need any substantial adjustments.

Curious what manifold you're running. Presumably the square bore 1409 doesn't bolt directly to a Mercruiser 2bbl intake manifold?

I've drifted this a bit off topic...sorry. But I just wanted to make sure you were aware that under certain circumstances, your prop test changed the operating range of the motor, and therefore changed its carb tuning requirements, which introduced a new problem that fogged up your prop test results a little bit. Not likely the fault of the prop's design, but it created a big bog because it was an overpitched prop that simply would not allow the motor to reach its proper operating RPM easily enough with that particular carb tune.
 
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MBAKER

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Re: Solas props

I used the edelbrock because it was virtually the same as the weber 4barrel that mercruiser used to use so all the bracketry was available and it was a bolt on deal. Its on top of a edelborock performer intake, we had to replace the engine, went from 5.0 to 5.7 and changed intake and carb at the same time.

I dont think the carb is that bad, I think I just had too aggressive of a prop on it. Because with a little looser prop or the 'correct' prop it runs perfectly fine, no bogging. Compared to the merc jetting (assuming the carbs are really the same) this one comes from the box about 12% richer on secondaries anyway. When we dynoed this engine after it was built it had no problems either, but the dyno allows it to accelerate at a set rate, whereas the prop doesnt adjust itself. I think either a looser prop like the powertech, or a smaller pitch solas so it has more mechanical advantage will work.
 

MBAKER

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Re: Solas props

Do props slip more at high or low speed or does it vary? Just thinking some more about this comparison.


The powertech 19P 3 blade pulls great from a dead stop with heavy boat, all the way to 4900 rev limiter, and runs ~50mph.
The solas 19P 4 blade pulls 'ok' from a dead stop as long as you dont over throttle and then runs 4300rpm ~45mph.

Assuming I go to a 16P solas and the engine pulls it from dead stop all the way to 4900 like the powertech now im only running ~40mph. In theory and based on previous posts this would hint that the Solas would have less slip (more traction) at low speed increasing acceleration rate even more so than having the loose powertech letting the engine rev faster even if it does slip a little the trade off is 10 mph on top end. So that being said, the powertech works great for getting a skier up as is and still runs out good on top, the biggest thing I would be looking to gain from the Solas would be cruising between 2500-3000 that it would have better push and not slip as much possibly using less fuel.
 
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MARV1

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Re: Solas props

I'll bet that the Solas prop is twice as thick as the Powertech causing the RPM loss as well as speed. Should have stuck with the Powertech brand when switching to 4 blade. Blade design and thickness play a huge role in performance and RPM's. I'm learning this as well...
 

MBAKER

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Re: Solas props

Actually the Solas is thinner, not much but it is, the overall shape is different htough. Powertech doesnt make a 4 blade aluminum prop that I am aware of, so my choice locally was between Michigan Wheel or a limited selection of Solas. I was going to go with e MW but thought Id give the Solas a try. Id be curious to know now how the MW would have compared.
 

craze1cars

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Re: Solas props

Do props slip more at high or low speed or does it vary? Just thinking some more about this comparison.


The powertech 19P 3 blade pulls great from a dead stop with heavy boat, all the way to 4900 rev limiter, and runs ~50mph.
The solas 19P 4 blade pulls 'ok' from a dead stop as long as you dont over throttle and then runs 4300rpm ~45mph.

Slip generally reduces as speed increases. More hull gets out of the water at higher speeds = less drag from hull = less slip and more efficiency measured at the prop.

As for holeshot, you're comparing apples and oranges. The reason the Powertech is pulling great from a dead stop is because it allows the engine to get into the rpm range where it starts making good power faster. The Solas does not. You're comparing a 4900 rpm prop to a 4300 rpm prop. If you have a Powertech in a pitch (maybe a 21 or a 23) that would only allow the engine to reach 4300 rpm, it would pull out of the hole much like the Solas...maybe even slower.

So no question that a 4900 rpm prop will pull like pants-on-fire out of the hole every time compared to a 4300 rpm prop, no matter the brand/number of blades/etc. So this is meaningless info for you.

I agree with your comment that the carb is probably fine...if the engine is propped correctly. Just understand the Solas brand or design did not cause the bog, the fact that their 19 was a 4300 rpm prop caused the bog.

The fact that you dyno'd this engine is a piece of the equation you haven't shared here before now, and a dyno run is an absolute goldmine of info that few have the opportunity to use for helping to choose a correct prop. What RPM was peak HP, and what RPM was peak torque?
 
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MBAKER

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Re: Solas props

As for holeshot, you're comparing apples and oranges. The reason the Powertech is pulling great from a dead stop is because it allows the engine to get into the rpm range where it starts making good power faster. The Solas does not. You're comparing a 4900 rpm prop to a 4300 rpm prop. If you have a Powertech in a pitch (maybe a 21 or a 23) that would only allow the engine to reach 4300 rpm, it would pull out of the hole much like the Solas...maybe even slower.

So no question that a 4900 rpm prop will pull like pants-on-fire out of the hole every time compared to a 4300 rpm prop, no matter the brand/number of blades/etc. So this is meaningless info for you.

I get that about going up in pitch with the powertech. But if I found a solas prop that would run 4900 (lets say it was a 16P), and it would let the engine rev faster like the powertech up to where it starts making better power then it would pull out of the hole better... but assuming similar slip numbers between solas props it would lose ~10mph on the top end compared to the powertech. So would it then add a decent amount to the acceleration of the boat out of the hole, or just 'slip' less at normal cruising compared to the powertech? Im not necessarily worried about going faster on top, but with the powertech I currently have good takeoff, and decent top end, even if it slips a little in the middle. If I went with the Solas would I gain enough on bottom and middle that it offsets losing the top?


I dont remember for sure on the dyno. I can look for the sheets but it was something like 350HP at 5200, TQ was around 400 but I dont remember where it peaked... somewhere in the 3000-3500 range Im guessing. But that was with headers because it was mainly run on the dyno to break it in and check for leaks before going in the boat, we just made a pull or 2 before taking it off.
 
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craze1cars

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Re: Solas props

No you will lose nowhere near 10 mph. Use a prop slip calculator and play with it a bit. Prop Slip Calculator | Propellers | Mercury Racing

For example if you find a 17 pitch prop (any brand) that slips 10% at WOT, compared to your current Powertech prop that slips 18% at WOT, then your top speed would drop from your current 49 to 48 at the same 4900 rpm.

If you find a 17 pitch prop that slips 14% (like the current Solas), your top speed at 4900 rpm would drop from your current 49 to 46.

If you find a 16 pitch prop that slips 12%, your speed at 4900 rpm will be 44 mph. But maybe it will allow the motor to spin 5100? In which case your speed will be 46 again.

So I'll suspect that a good 16 or 17 pitch prop that allows the motor to spin up to 4900 rpm or better will cost you maybe 1 to 4 mph.

This is all theory based on math. You have to try something and test. I still recommend trying a 17 Solas. The fact that you have a local shop willing to allow test & return is working in your favor. Use it...
 
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MBAKER

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Re: Solas props

I did run some numbers but without GPS speed is prob not worth losing a lot of sleep over. To the best of my knowledge here is what I remember from the swap trying to make it even. The thing is with the powertech the rev limiter stops it at 4950, it may run a little faster especially if it were trimmed up. Typcially no trim its just below the limiter. The solas at no trim just barely got to 4200, a little trim and it came up to 4300. So I am was using no trim for these calcs.

Powertech 3 blade 19P 4900 no trim, 50mph by speedo. 17% slip
Solas 4 blade 19P 4200 no trim, 43-44 mph by speedo. 15% slip
Solas 4 blade 16P assuming it gains 600 rpm due to pitch change and same 15% slip that puts me at 42mph and 4800 rpm.

So I say 10 mph loss but I guess its really more like 8 or so. I would like to do some more testing but its hard to convince my crew that they need to ride around aimlessly with me for a few hours while i take down some numbers. I could do it alone or with one other but typical load for me is 6 adults worth of weight plus gear. Prob would skew the numbers if I went alone.
 

craze1cars

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Re: Solas props

No trim?!

You have to trim out fully, to max boat speed, to get accurate prop testing results. If you're not trimming out, and you're not using GPS speeds, it's really hard to recommend or predict anything...

As for aimlessly riding around for a few hours...I've never had any prop testing take more than about 5 minutes. Go fast, trim out, remember your max speed & RPM attained at that speed for future reference, and enjoy the rest of the day on the water...

You seem really happy with your Powertech. Why not just buy another one? Then again, if you're actually pushing rev limiter with 6 adults & gear on board while not even trimmed out, you're under-propped.
 
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MBAKER

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Re: Solas props

You can trim it out some, but honestly it doesnt take much and it starts to ventilate anyway. So most of the time just leave in trimmed in. yeah, I know it is underpropped a little but Id rather have it that way than over-propped. The old engine was over-propped a little and just never felt like it handled as well. But I also dont think I would want to go to a 21 and lose some of the hole shot. I have considered adding a little more cup to the powertech as well. I am satisfied with the Powertech but was having some cavitation burn showing up on it, thats kinda where the whole thing started, and wondering if there was something else that might be better. I had been wanting to try a Solas so decided to give it a shot.

What I meant about testing was roudning up a few different props to try all in the same day. So the aimless part was referring to the time spent sitting while I change props which would prob involve trailering each time just to get to it.
 
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