solder vs crimp

[lawyertob]

Re: solder vs crimp

Originally posted by Indymike:<br /> Joe look here web page click on online tool cat. then Strippers, Cutters, Crimpers .<br />Available thru local electrical supply house. peerless, wesco,ged etc. maybe even lowes.<br />I'm an electrician and klein is top notch.<br /><br />Mike

Mike,<br />That is a beautiful tool...but I don't think I will ever crimp enough connections to justify the cost. I am going to check at Lowes though and see what a real world price would be.<br /><br />Thanks for the info,<br />Joe

 

[Indymike]

Re: solder vs crimp

Joe the 1005 is a good crimp tool. About $25.00 or so.

 

[18rabbit]

Re: solder vs crimp

Klein is good stuff. The advantage of the Ancor crimper is that it has the appropriate die for the Ancor connectors; probably the connectors you will be using. The Ancor ratchet double crimper is also a quality tool, about $65-$75. The die has color-coded dots to match Ancor’s color-coded connectors so even morons can get it right. Both Klein and Ancor crimping tools are frequently on Ebay, but often not a bargain due to the bidding on a desirable tool.<br /><br />For those that don’t know, a double crimper has a die in the tool jaws that crimps differently on each side of the die. This makes the appropriate 2 crimps; one crimp on the metal part of the connector (connector to bare wire), and one crimp on the connector’s nylon insulator to the insulation on the wire. Both crimps happen at one time, with one squeeze of the tool.<br /><br /> http://www.ancorproducts.com/Products/products_pdf/tools_meters/tools_meters_pag80.pdf

 

[Stumpknocker]

Re: solder vs crimp

Jack L, I have not been able to locate heat shrink with glue. Only non glue type heat shrink. Do you have to go to an electrical supply?

 

[Stumpknocker]

Re: solder vs crimp

An added note on this thread. Between the marine grade wire info... and the proper crimping methods, I found that the wiring in my boat was not up to speed and in some cases really wanting. This has caused me to begin a total rewire on the boat from the VHF to the fish finder. I'm adding a terminal strip to the battery box as well as relocating new bilge pump rocker switches where my knees don't keep turning on the livewell when I bump the CC. Finally getting it the way it should have been when I bought the boat. It was a used purchase and most of the wiring is SAE type except for the lights which were cable type marine grade. Everything the previous owner added was sub par.

 

[lawyertob]

Re: solder vs crimp

Thanks Mike and Rabbit,<br /> Now, when I am looking at all these different crimpers, I am noticing that the mid range priced ones all have the sort of oblong shaped spaces where the connectors get crimped. However, when you get into the deluxe models the die or jaw shape changes to something closer to a non-insulated type crimper...even though the descriptions still say they do the insulated type. Here are a couple of examples here on iBoats;<br />oblong <br /><br /> other [EDIT - fixed this link] <br />The same thing happens with the Kein tools, but I don't have those pics posted..if need be I will post them later if these aren't good enough. I know there are different kinds of crimpers for different kinds of cable, wirte, etc., but these all seem to be for the same use, so I can't understand the diffewrent jaws.<br /><br />Fibally, if anyone is still reading this far down it has been stated that the Ancor crimpers are designed for the Ancor connectors...silly question, but they DO work with other brands to, don't they?<br /><br />Thanks for the help,<br />Joe

 

[ron7000]

Re: solder vs crimp

• <br />
• Solder does not guarantee a good very low resistance connection<br />
• Solder does not give a mechanically secure connection<br />
• Crimping holds the wire tight, solder can break free.<br />
• Solder is not approved for any power connections that I know of, on water or land<br />
• Adding solder to the joint can increase the resistance in the joint but worse is that its acid residues lead to corrosion later<br />
• crimping is better than soldering for electrical connection<br />
• I believe it is also a CG reg<br />

<br />

- yes it does<br />- yes it does<br />- no it can't, unless you do it wrong; crimping will break free just the same especially after time when the exposed wire corrodes and becomes weak<br />- well then you don't know much I'm afraid<br />- no acid unless you don't know what you're doing and using plumbing solder flux. Use solder for electronics. There is no increase or decrease in resistance<br />- no it's not.<br />- and whatever you do, follow the CG regs. And for God's sakes, be carefull out there <br /><br /><br />And the big kicker- marine grade wire is "tinned" throughout it's length. What ya'll think solder is primarily?

 

[waterone1@aol.com]

Re: solder vs crimp

OK, guess I should throw my two cents worth in. About twenty years ago when I took my first electronics course in vocational school one of the first things we were learing about (after Ohm's law) was soldering technique. Not so amazingly, after two years of instruction there were people that still couldn't solder correctly. They were either burning everything up, or making solder joints so cold you could ice skate on them !<br />With the wide variety of wire sizes that you find on the average boat, and the varying degree of soldering skills that people posess, it just makes sense for the standard to be crimp connections. For the skilled technician that knows how much heat and where to use it without damaging something, a solder joint is as good as, if not superior to a crimp. I will conceed that for a high current connection, just the slightest bit of a poor solder job will lead to arcing which leads to heat, which will make the whole joint defective which will lead to failure. for those I would recommend crimp, then solder....just my two cents worth.

 

[18rabbit]

Re: solder vs crimp

Joe - the Ancor crimper I suggested you look at has replaceable dies available as on option. It is shipped with dies for insulated connectors and adjusted for Ancor product…it will crimp just right, not too much, not to little with those connectors. You can adjust the crimp as needed for whatever you decide to stick in there…including pinky fingers. It is not limited to any specific manf of connectors, but the dies are sized for insulated connectors. If you are going to use non-insulated connectors you should buy the optional dies for about $26.<br /><br />Btw, the MSRP on that crimper is about $65. You can buy it at that price everyday at west marine…or pull a 10% -off coupon from their weekly flyer and get for less than $60.<br /><br />I don’t use the adhesive lined tubing. Too figgin’ expensive! You can find it wherever Ancor connectors are sold. Liquid electrician’s tape works great and you don’t need to mess with a heat gun. As far as soldering goes, I suggest blowing if off altogether. It’s just not need, it’s vulnerable, and the Coast Guard regs dictate it cannot be the only means of connecting electrical (there’s good reason why) so you need to be crimping anyways. An exception is battery cable…it may have a soldered connection to a terminal lug that is 1-1/2 times the diameter of the conductor.

 

[Stumpknocker]

Re: solder vs crimp

I agree with 18rabbit about the expense of those adhesive lined tubes! Almost $1.75 each! Wow. Bought a few then decided that would be the last of that. I can buy a whole lot of Liquid Electricians tape for less money than 3 connectors. Holy moly.

 

[Stumpknocker]

Re: solder vs crimp

In addition to safety chains, I have soldered my boat trailer to the truck for long weekends. Now its theft proof til I get back to the dock.

 

[Mark42]

Re: solder vs crimp

In addition to safety chains, I have soldered my boat trailer to the truck for long weekends. Now its theft proof til I get back to the dock.<br />

In addition to that, I apply a liberal amount of plumbing flux and solder to the wheel bearings as an extra measure of anti-theft safety!<br />

 

[Stumpknocker]

Re: solder vs crimp

I just hate it when I miss something so obvious. Gotta go get those wheels taken care of!

 

[lawyertob]

Re: solder vs crimp

Originally posted by Mark42:<br /> In addition to that, I apply a liberal amount of plumbing flux and solder to the wheel bearings as an extra measure of anti-theft safety!<br />

Mark,<br /><br /> You better be careful...as I understand it, once you solder it, it is never, ever going to come loose. Ever.<br /><br />Oh, and to all who gave advice above, I am looking at a couple of different kinds, but will definitely get some sort of double racheting type. Thanks for the advice.<br /><br />Nowhere near $0.02 worth,<br />Joe

 

[swist]

Re: solder vs crimp

Double-racheting solder is definitely the way to go. Beats the hell out of rosin core. Nice to not need a soldering iron....

 

[Stumpknocker]

Re: solder vs crimp

Well I'll be! I figured those crimpers were pretty darned expensive just to smush poor lil ole aluminum wire holders. So they solder too! Great! Now I don't have to carry around all of the extension cords and soldering irons. What a deal. So much easier to solder the trailer to the truck while away from home, not to mention the wheel bearings. Boating is such an experience. What was the description?..... Elegantly tacky, yet unrefined. Thats the one.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: solder vs crimp

I use the snap on crimper. it does not cut the insulation on the "Anchor" type heat shrink cimp ons. if you use the standard stamped steel crimpers it tends to cut the insulation on the crimp renering the whole thing as useless. I rarely solder anymore as most the time the wire is to old for a good joint. once the wire changes from a bright copper to dark most soldering is poor at best. but you wont belive the rigging BS we see from the factory even on top brand boats <br /> but it keeps me in a decent income bracket