some advice on what to do

[jbcurt00]

The back deck isnt original and neither is the vertical panel in front of it.

IMO, it probably was a runabout of some type and some removed the top half of the boat, then remodeled the inside to suit themselves.

I doubt MFG would have turned out what appears as fairly rough fit and finish. The long boxes on either side, the bow deck and stern deck are all likely to be added by a previous owner.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Should i take off the rub rail?

Yes, unless whoever rebuild it took the time to fill it (judging by what I see they wouldn't of) you should be able to see a seam if it's a two part hull. I don't think it's much of a concern on that boat thought as there isn't much of a cap to hinder your access to the internals that'll need rebuilt.

 

[Iced]

No Title

well jbcurt00 it seems that you are correct. the hull looks to be all one piece meaning no cap, so that is good news to me.... actually it is the only good news that i can see right now. i uploaded pics, hopefully they came out right this time around. so basically i can see the transom was rebuilt, along with the floor. now the transom at this time seems to be solid, not wet at all. the inside rail (i will call it) seems to be original, however there are a bunch of band aids on it(as you can see from the pics). There apparently was a deck on the back of the boat also, looked like it was cut out in the process of the "rebuild" if you will.so basically my plan of attack is to just cut it all out and start new. from the back all the way to the front. i am going to try to leave the transom alone, because i really don't know how to do it( well i don't know how to do any of this, but cutting out the floor and building stringers seems easy enough).

 

[Iced]

No Title

so here is my plan on cutting. i am going to get out my sawsall, and cut along the red and green lines from the transom to the stern, and just rip it all out to see what is underneath. i am sure there are rotted stringers and such, but we shall see

 

[bonz_d]

After looking thru your pictures again I still believe it is built the same as the Tuffy and glass Lund in that there is no cap and the side flotation box and all the decking are built and glassed right to the hull. I still have a few photos of a couple hulls similarly built I could PM you if you'd like.

 

[Iced]

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bpo/5284478418.html

i found this on CL. is this what i am going to need, and is it a good deal?

 

[Chrisravosa36]

You can find stuff much cheaper on ebay, and with less risk.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fiberglass-...434812?hash=item3ab20f103c:g:GfQAAOSwsB9V-2rj

 

[Woodonglass]

Nope, not what I'd use, or recommend!!!

 

[Goldie627]

For my restore, ive only used two types of cloth, 1708 for tabbing and 1.5 oz chop strand mat for water proofing. I used a circlular saw to score my floor, then followed with the sawsall to get nice and close to the hull in order to take the lip/edge off. Helps to bend the sawsall blade to the contour of the hull/wall. i think it was Georgesalmon that taught me that trick. $1500 may be on the conservative side, if youve never layed up before allow for some learning curve waste. Rule of thumb, don't buy any resin, gelcoat or foam unless you are sure you can use them before thier shelf life expires. Do some composites homework comparing cost, shipping and availability. Take plenty of measurements and pictures. You'll also need a thickening agent I used cabosil. Oh and don't forget the 1/4 chopstrands to strengthen your peanutbutter. Be very cautious buying composites from craig's list on account of you don't know how old it really is or if it really is what it claims to be. Even be careful with ebay because you don't know how long the saler has had it on the shelf. You want to get it right after it was poured down. But hey...... I'm just a dumb old city boy!

 

[Goldie627]

For the pics, I created a free photo bucket account, drag and drop onto photo bucket, then photo bucket will give ya a direct url which you can copy and paste into the iboats forum advanced editor, easy peaszy

 

[Iced]

Well guys today is gonna be 67 degrees. Can't believe it. So thinking about getting the floor out today. My question is. When I cut out the floor should I leave a 2 inch border, or just cut it all out?

I decided to leave in the front deck for now. I don't have braces made and I don't want the hull to flex to much...

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

The end goal is to have it all out but depending on what tool you use to cut it out you may need to initially leave a lip (so you don't cut through the hull itself) then come back with a grinder to finish the job.

 

[bonz_d]

Iced, really want to apologies for not getting back to you with those pictures. Both of these boats were bought for the trailers. The blue one has already been cut up while the brown Lund is now behind the garage. The blue boat just had one very small stringer down the keel that basically was only there to support the plywood deck. The boxes on the sides were just 1/4" plywood built to encase the floatation foam which is structural in these boats and then glassed over.

The biggest difference between these and yours is the way the gunwale is finished off.

 

[Iced]

No Title

this is what i did today. i just basically took off what the other guy did. i used my jigsaw to get it started, then used my prybar to get the rest up.. it actually came up easy, but rotten to the core... i am kind of glad that i didnt use any power tools because i def would have cut through the hull up in the front. it basically just has a piece of plywood laying on the hull itself without any stringer up there. i can see there used to be a seat installed prob from factory( the box with the water in it) . everything is rotten and water logged( you guys probablly already knew that though didnt ya) save all that for another day...

So any advice3 or tips on my next steps to take? all is welcome

 

[bonz_d]

Pretty much what I expected to see. Though the stringer and bulkhead system used is a bit more substantial than either of the 2 I pictured.

Those glass side floatation boxes should be just as you see them the whole length.

You might want to look at gm280's build for ideas as to how to proceed as his hull is very similar to what you have.