Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

[KCLOST]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

Ok,<br />That's not the mercury switch,,, let me do some checking...

 

[KCLOST]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

Can you trace it to where it goes...???

 

[gss036]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

I think red/white goes to the stator.

 

[KCLOST]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

There is a red-white that goes to one of the switchboxes from the stator... I cannot see if the front or back red stator leads has a stripe on it...

 

[KCLOST]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

Your colors on that three wire bunch that goes to the idle stabilizer are not matching mine.. <br /><br />I have a red-white that goes to the top-right connector on the outer switchbox, a tan-black is connected to the top left connector (as yours is) and a black lead goes to ground...<br /><br />Check and see if the tan wire you have going to the top right connector on the outer switch box is a replacement wire... Follow all three leads to the idle stabilizer which should be behind the flywheel. It's a black plastic box about 2" x 3"...<br /><br />My red white lead on my motor is in pretty bad shape, corroded internally... I'm glad you made me take a look at it.. But my idle is fine... These motors can run without the stabilizer by the way...<br /><br />But that red-white wire with the connector on it I have no idea where it goes... Since it is not in with the other wires that go to the stabilizer. Just trace it...

 

[studlymandingo]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

<br /><br />Here is where the red/white wire goes. There are actually 3 red/white wires that go under the flywheel through the plastic loom, only two come out at the flywheel end. I assume that two are spliced together inside the loom. Also, there are 2 yellow wires, a blue/white wire, a light blue wire, and a black ground wire that all travel through this loom.<br /><br />

<br /><br />This is the box that is bolted to the port side head. It has a brown wire, an off-white/Black wire, and a black ground wire going into it.<br />

<br /><br />This is the box bolted to the starboard side head, the plastic is crackled on the top, don't know if that means it got too hot. It has a pale yellow wire and red wire going to it.

 

[studlymandingo]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

If I can get the electronics figured out on this motor, I will have it licked. I appreciate the help with this

 

[KCLOST]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

The top picture shows your stator leads... They look new, like someone had replaced them...<br /><br />You should see a red, blue, red-white, and blue-white... They are connected to the high and low speed stator windings. One set goes to the inner switchbox, the other to the outer on the top... The black and yellow wires are also supposed to be there..<br /><br />The second picture shows the idle stabilizer... You have a red wire leaving it. Maybe it was replaced with the tan wire. Again the tan wire (on your motor) should go to the top right (connector on the outer switchbox, the offwhite/black should go to the top left connector on the outer switchbox. The black should go to ground. Make sure it is connected to ground somewhere.<br /><br />The third picture shows the voltage regulator, it looks like it is hooked up correctly. Both of those leads should go to the rectifier. It is shown in you first picture right above the left side of the switchboxes...<br /><br />I believe that that red-white wire with the connector could have been an old stator lead that is now disconnected and was replaced???????<br /><br />Right now I don't see anything that would hinder your idle... Assuming the wires are all connected and in good condition...

 

[KCLOST]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

I would like to add studly,,<br /><br />The condition of you motor looks like it could use a good cleaning and especially wiring check/connector cleaning.... You could have a bad connector in a number of places...<br /><br />Don't power wash it, but give it a good rub down and check...

 

[studlymandingo]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

I've been going through the connections and so far the only thing I have found was the connection on the voltage regulator was corroded. I have since corrected that. The majority of the misc. crap on the engine has come from the sound dampening foam on the inside of the cowl. I have taken that out and replaced it with a lined foil type insulating blanket. The remaining foam dust is everywhere though. I have yet to remove the switchboxes and check the connections there, but so far everything else is looking solid.

 

[studlymandingo]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

Thanks for the descriptions thus far, it is giving me an idea of what the connections should be. I have the Seloc manual, but it is very vague on the specifics of the wiring connections on the engine. Once I grasp what everything is and its function, I will be better able to work on this motor. Thanks for all of your help.

 

[studlymandingo]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

Okay, I've gone through all of the systems, tested everything with a meter and all is within the specs they should be. I have a good strong consistent spark at every plug, I even moved the gap to 1/2" and still got spark at every cylinder. I have good compression with less than a 2 lb difference between any cylinder. I have thoroughly decarbed the motor, with a 1 gal 1 can mix, Deep Creep in all of the carbs, and Deep Creep soaked in every cylinder. I went through all of the connections as suggested and everything was in order.<br /><br />The motor idles a bit better than before, but still not perfectly smooth. I don't know if I am expecting too much, I think maybe I am expecting the outboard to idle like the V-6 in my Ford Escape. Should it have a little more shake to it than that? I used to build engines for hot rods and dirt track cars, and I expected the idle to "lope" due to the degree of the cam lobes that I would install. <br /><br />Is there anything that I am overlooking here?

 

[gss036]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

No, you are not missing anything, but the Merc, carbed V-6's are not going to run like the -6 in you Ford. I wish mine would also, but just not going to happen. EFI will run fairly smooth, or Opti, but not the carbed units. Just the nature fo the beast.

 

[studlymandingo]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

That's kind of what I was thinking, just wanted to confirm as I have read a couple of posts where they stated the idle "purred like a kitten" and this one was more like an angry kitten. Above about 1200 RPM, it is very smooth.<br /><br />Definitely all of the cleaning and extensive decarb has made the idle better, as well as overall performance.

 

[studlymandingo]

Re: Spark Gap Tester...KCLOST???

Got a good run in today. The idle is definitely MUCH better. I think all of the decarbing, along with the wire replacements made a world of difference. <br /><br />Thanks so much for all of the help, she is running well!!<br /><br />The weather was great for boating today! Had some wind that was producing a pleasant chop in the bay, and kicking the seas up a bit in the Gulf. The motor was strong and responsive and allowed me to find a comfortable speed in the mid-20s in 3-4 foot seas. Was able to comfortably run 38-40 through the bay. One puzzling thing there though, I hit 47MPH with this motor back in March, I have only been able to pull off 41 recently. This is with the motor running better now than then, is the air temp making a 6 mph difference?<br /><br />Again, thanks for the help, I have a much better understanding of the workings of the ignition system on this motor now. Hopefully I'll be able to help someone else who is experiencing trouble now!