Spark problem

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

Hello.

I have a 2001 60hp Johnson 3cyl 2stroke.
I'm having problems with spark.
At times i can start the motor without any issues at all. I can go back later that day, or days later and i have no spark to any cylinders at all.
Sometimes spark will eventually arrive at the plugs after some time cranking over, sometimes it wont until i try again later. By using a spark tester i can determine when and if there is spark.
I removed the Stator and found a hairline crack, and some leakage from the epoxy or whatever it is. But people tell me that Stators either work or they don't?
There is a similar opinion on Power Packs too.
I replaced the Ignition Switch, but hasn't fixed the issue.
I disconnected the kill switch wire to the Power Pack and checked for spark(when it wouldn't spark), but made no difference.
Compression is good 150psi on all cyinders, according to tech at last service.
Im considering replacing either the Power Pack(CDI) or Stator next.......unless there is something else i should check first.
Any help appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Bosunsmate]

It could be your timer base as well.
Check out the cdi troubleshooter. You will need to run the tests when its not working, thats the only way i know to deal with intermittent faults. Replacing parts by guessing normally means from some universal law that the one you actually need to replace you wont get to until last
Also check your wiring for chafing, especially where the wires come under the flywheel as if they chaf there they can end up shorting to ground

 

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

Ok thanks.
I'll check it out and get back.

 

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

Haven't done the CDI troubleshooting yet.
But, just curious.....is it normal for the motor to be able to run with the Safety Lanyard removed?
I thought that was the purpose of them, was to kill ignition?
My motor runs WITHOUT the Lanyard attached......just wondering if it might have been modified at some stage, and may have a bearing on my problem?

 

[Bosunsmate]

yes its not working like it should.
You said in your first post that disconnecting the killwire doesnt change things so appears its not the problem.
But you should fix it anyway, people have being killed by not having that lanyard working

 

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

In my first post i was refering to the Black/Yellow wire that runs from Control Box to the Power Pack through the Harness.....sorry to confuse.
If I connect the Safety Lanyard, and then disconnect it while the motor runs......it does stop the motor. But it will also start and run the motor with it still disconnected....is that normal?
Thanks.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Yes the lanyard kills the engine through that black/yellow wire so if you had disconnected that and still no spark then lanyard issue doesnt seem the cause.
No not normal at all, i dont understand that at all, thats a paradox!

 

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

Yea......doesn't seem right to me either.
I'll see if i can source some professional help on that one.
Im thinking that previous owner has modified for some reason.

 

[Rustywrench]

There are two types of kill switches. Electrical & mechanical. Yes it confuses everyone! After (1996 I believe) OMC decided to go to a mechanical kill switch. It just turns the key off mechanically. If you reach up & start the motor without the lanyard it will start & run again. Up to you to hook up the lanyard again so it turns the key off again next time it is pulled. The electrical switch has the little button that pops out. No go till you hold button down or lanyard in place.
Both kill the engine by grounding the black/yellow wire at the pack. On 3 cylinder engines you have 3 charge coils in the stator, 3 sensor coils in the timer base, only one pack. Unlikely 3 items go bad vs 1 item. Not saying jump to any conclusions, but more trouble shooting is needed before you guess. You also have 3 ignition coils, but it won't be them either.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Tear open the control box, thats where it will be but if you have the available money then any pro worth their salt will know what wrong with the lanyard

 

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

Ok, thats interesting in that when i try to start the motor with the Lanyard engaged, the 4 red warning lights take longer to display then with the Lanyard is disengaged. Also, the Taco behaves erratically.
Might have to investigate the wiring at the Control Box.

 

[Bosunsmate]

I didnt know that about newer lanyards, seems all my mates can only afford older motors.
Tach can behave badly if your regulator/rectifier is stuffed so check shes charging ok

 

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

I'm assuming my motor has "quick start".
I wonder if there's a way of checking if its faulty or not?
Don't know where to start looking for it.

 

[Fed]

Disconnect & isolate the yellow wires coming out of the stator and try again.
What type of spark tester are you using, open air gap?
Is the starter motor cranking it over quickly?

 

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

Ok will try that.
Will isolating the yellow wires bypass the "quick start".......don't they feed to the Regulator for Battery charging?
Im just using a std spark tester....like a test light. Not something that's adjustable.

 

[Fed]

Yellows feed the rec/reg, disconnecting them will eliminate the rec/reg as a source of the problem.
No quick start by-pass as the yellows only supply what the battery is already supplying.
Open air gap tester is best, it tests under real world conditions.
Is the starter motor cranking it over quickly?

 

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

Ok thanks.
i had my doubts about the battery cranking fast enough to produce voltage from the Stator, so i purchased a new battery capable of 720 cold cranking. Unfortunately it didnt eliminate the problem. Im yet to check the voltage from the Stator on the brown wires with the new battery. Last time i checked it was only producing 140volts AC. According to specs (and CDI troubleshooting) it requires min of 150 Volts AC. But local techs are saying that's acceptable while cranking?
As soon as I can get it to "not spark" I'll check the voltage output from the Stator brown wires before the CDI power pack. And disconnect the yellow wires as another process of elimination.
Would this seem like the best proceedure?

 

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

Well....i still haven't had the motor reproduce the "no spark" situation.
I'm starting to think that the old battery might have been the culprit that caused the initial startup problems, in that it didnt produce enough power to crank fast enough for spark.
Since using the new battery.......startup is not a problem.......and producing over 200volts AC now from the Stator(previously only 140volts) on cranking alone. There is still hesitation on acceleration at times, but maybe that's a different issue.
Some resistance test i done.
Stator ....Brown to Brown/Yellow = 836. Producing 202Volts AC on cranking.
Orange to Orange/Black = 404 Producing 11.1Volts AC on cranking.
CDI .........All Orange wires to Coils = 100.
All are within specs, so I think I will just replace CDI power pack and monitor from there until I experience the "no spark", and then try disconnecting the Yellow Stator wires, and see what happens from there.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Clean all the grounds including the ones that come off the coils. The bolts that are ground can get rusty and also the bolt holes

 

[willows.2@hotmail.com]

Is there a reliable procedure/indicator to test the ignition coils?
One cylinder is occasionally misfiring "under load only".
At cruising speed all is good.....just misfiring when climbing up on to the plane only.
New spark plugs installed, and resistance test on the spark leads appear to be ok.
Thanks.