splashwell cracking

[jonesg]

circled in red, the crack is due to the transom compressing and pulling away from the splashwell.
lets see if I can attach the pic, its smallish so..

Also a better pic looking straight down at the crack.

My thinking is a seacast transom job ( or similar) will take care of this, besides sealing the crack.
I noticed when tightening the outboard mounting bolt near the crack the transom was compressing and later on the crack appeared, I think thats the cause of the problem.

In the 3rd pic you can see the outboard mounting nut just to the left.

 

[Driven1]

Re: splashwell cracking

Welcome to iBoats!

Based on what you've said so far, more than likely you're transom's rotted. If the wood was good in that area there'd be no compression at all. Yes, Seacast can be used but it's very expensive and almost as much work as doing a regular plywood transom replacement. Depending on the age of the boat it could be worse than that yet. You're stringers may be shot too. Do a search on core sample, transom, and stringers and you'll find TONS of information on how to check to see what you've really got. Tons of info on how to fix it too.

Good Luck!

 

[jonesg]

Re: splashwell cracking

transom is like potting soil, literally.
Stringers are ok.

If the seacast is as much effort as ply I may as well go back with wood.

 

[Driven1]

Re: splashwell cracking

Seacast has its uses but generally in boats with larger transoms. The cost of it is usually prohibitive in the average "family" or fishing boat.

You still need to be able to get at the top of the transom, which usually means popping the cap (preferred) or cutting off the splashwell and reglassing it back in later. You also have to get all of the hardware out of the transom (or work around it somehow) to get all of the rotted wood out. Plug any holes that exist in the inner and outer skins, pour the seacast and allow it to cure. Then unplug and redrill any necessary holes. Put the cap back on.

Plywood and fiberglass are cheaper and just as good. Possibly less work if you weigh cutting out the transom versus "Digging" out the transom. If a plywood transom is done right, (better than OEM in most cases) it will outlast you and probably your grandchildren.

I also have a boat here that's transom was "potting soil". I have a nice new plywood transom made for it and ready to go in. If I can get a break in the weather I might just be able to do it.

 

[jonesg]

Re: splashwell cracking

its expensive, I calc $600 to seacast it, but I'd do my own version with poly resin and chop'd fibre if I were going thataways.

I like the idea of using both, a seacast type mortar and ply core.

I haven't done much exploration yet, same weather as you, storms the past 3 days here.

Specifically I don't know whats under the splashwell, whether the transom is glass on both sides or whether theres ply there, I'd prefer not having to cut the splashwell out.

My tank compartment is big enough to lay down in and examine the backside of the transom with a halogen, if its glass then I'm going in through the top. Its a 20' center console. Old and heavily built.