splicing battery cable

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
i need to replace part of my battery cable that was exposed, and is not bare, the part inside the harness is great. any one ever used a Split bolt connect to splice battery cable, then wrap in tape?
 

triumphrick

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 26, 2008
Messages
1,737
Re: splicing battery cable

TD, in the DC world it is all about amperage. The diameter of a cable, the number of wires in that cable and the overall integrity of that cable is very important. If you do it, use some noalox or other anti oxidant compound and check it at least once a year, if not sooner. Good luck !
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
45,907
Re: splicing battery cable

I think about 10% of spliced battery cables last a year. The other 90% cause trouble.

Replace the cable, TD.
 

hankll

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 10, 2006
Messages
224
Re: splicing battery cable

Ideally a splice does need to be clamped with a cable splice. And as was mentioned an anti oxidant and then instead of black electricians tape, use a black roll of dry stretch tape that sticks to itself when stretched. The name of the stuff escaped me feeble brain. I got mine at Home Depot near the water heater area. Its waterproof and when stretched and wrapped on itself sticks only to itself. I think it was in the plumbing area because supposedly you can stop a water leak on a pipe. Not sure I would use for that but it does make a great splice covering. I did the clamp and the wrap tape on my battery cables over a year ago, and its still holding with no problems on starting or charging the battery.
 

drewpster

Commander
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
2,059
Re: splicing battery cable

TD A reliable battery cable splice works the same as a reliable 12 gauge splice. Heavy duty butt connector, heavy crimp, solder then cover with quality heat shrink tube with the glue inside it. I have been doing them that way for years. As long as quality components are used and you know how to solder ok, it will hold up fine.
If you are planning to bolt two cable eyes together and tape them up I would advise against it. I have done that also and it got loose and caused problems.
If you are set on splicing two cables using cable eyes use one of these instead of a plain bolt.
http://www.iboats.com/Powerpost_High_Amperage_Cable_Connector/dm/*******.019638425--category_id.374311--**********.954220618--view_id.38107

It still is not as good as a soldered splice in my view but at least you can secure the connection against vibration. Vibration and movement is what causes a bolt to come loose.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: splicing battery cable

i would normally totally replace the cable, but it's a stupid mercury harness, the big plug on the side of the motor.
 

triumphrick

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 26, 2008
Messages
1,737
Re: splicing battery cable

I would use an inline butt connector using the noalox liberally on the ends of the wires. Before crimping, slip a piece of shrink sleeve that fits tightly over the splice. Heat with a heat gun or a 1200 w hair dryer to shrink down tight to the insulation, ensuring a tight fit. Better to be an inline connector than an overlap splice.
 

Phantom_II

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 24, 2008
Messages
157
Re: splicing battery cable

Find the heat shrink that has a meltable inner liner. It does a good job of waterproofing the connection.
iBoats carries it in sizes up to 1/2" ( http://www.iboats.com/3_TO_1_Heat_S...17606328--**********.769749036--view_id.21975 )but it's available elsewhere in larger sizes if you look around.

There is also a meltable tape wrap available that goes over the splice before you apply the heat shrink.

I could fix you up with some nifty sealed splices, but I only have them in sizes up to 10AWG
 

DRIFTER_016

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
360
Re: splicing battery cable

In the car audio world I would use a high quality uninsulated butt connector with heat shrink with the hot melt glue lining. In 20 years never had a failure using this technique. I would crimp the connector, follow with solder and then the heat shrink.
 

drewpster

Commander
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
2,059
Re: splicing battery cable

Here's the stuff TD,

Good heat shrink with glue liner
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=327&page=1

Good butt connectors, you can get lower quantities listed if you don?t want a whole pack. You can also find these locally. Solder can be fed through the hole in the middle. If your cable is larger than 2 ga. they have them up to 000 size I think.
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=792236&page=1

Make sure you use ROSIN core solder NOT acid core. You will notice that all the stuff I picked for you is rated at 105 C or better. 105c is considered at marine rated level for heat resistance. (per ABYC)

You can make a crimp tool like the one below from a cheap pair of bolt cutters from Harbor Freight like mine or you can simply use a round nose 5/16 or 3/8 punch and a hammer to crimp the terminals. pic below of fancy dancy crimpers ($8.00 if memory serves)
cable20crimpers.jpg
 
Last edited:

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: splicing battery cable

i used the split bolt, the water proof everything.
 

BMOLCHANY

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
224
Re: splicing battery cable

Let me know how that turns out. I was on a boat fire the other day that was caused by a bad splice that grounded. Just curious how it holds up. The boat owner the other day just used a crimp fitting and elec tape.
 

consie67

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 28, 2002
Messages
34
Re: splicing battery cable

I just spliced on an extra 10' of #4 cable to the factory engine ends. Crimped butt splice and ends w/ hot glue sleve & tape. At first the solenoid just clicked but then in about a minute or less, the power kicked in, trim & starter. Is it normal for the resistance to take a few seconds to catch up with the length?
thanks CC
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: splicing battery cable

I just spliced on an extra 10' of #4 cable to the factory engine ends. Crimped butt splice and ends w/ hot glue sleve & tape. At first the solenoid just clicked but then in about a minute or less, the power kicked in, trim & starter. Is it normal for the resistance to take a few seconds to catch up with the length?
thanks CC
No, there's no discernable delay due to length of a conductor. When a voltage is applied at one end, conductance occurs at the speed of light in a vacuum.

An electron being pushed by the battery into a wire, will push on the next one, and so on. Much like a tube filled with a single row of ball bearings with no space in between.
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: splicing battery cable

I splice wires all the time and never have a lick of trouble.
I go to the hardware store and buy a 6"-12" stick of brass tube. I cut off an appropriate length, ream, and debur. I shove one wire into one side and the other wire into the other side. Then I use an appropriately sized crimp tool. Then I use my propane or map torch to completely encase the wires and tube with a resin core solder. If there is any stubburn solder drips i just file or dremel them off. Then i wrap with self-fusing silicone tape. Then I put a heat shrink over the whole thing. If the original problem was abrasion then i encase the reapired area with a length of poly weave or split loom.

No biggie. never had a failure yet.
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: splicing battery cable

I just spliced on an extra 10' of #4 cable to the factory engine ends. Crimped butt splice and ends w/ hot glue sleve & tape. At first the solenoid just clicked but then in about a minute or less, the power kicked in, trim & starter. Is it normal for the resistance to take a few seconds to catch up with the length?
thanks CC

if the total cable length gets to be too long then you start to lose voltage in the wire. The math of it is V=IR.
Voltage equals current times resistance. If you are drawing 20amps then you need really small resistance. If your cable get too long then it starts to have resistance and takes way voltage from motor. At some point starters and trim motors act like you have a weak battery even though the battery checks out perfect. If you want make make sure then use a meter to measure resistance. I think at about 0.05 ohm a typical V8 starter loses about half of its power in the wiring.
 

TerryMSU

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
743
Re: splicing battery cable

if the total cable length gets to be too long then you start to lose voltage in the wire. The math of it is V=IR.
Voltage equals current times resistance. If you are drawing 20amps then you need really small resistance. If your cable get too long then it starts to have resistance and takes way voltage from motor. At some point starters and trim motors act like you have a weak battery even though the battery checks out perfect. If you want make make sure then use a meter to measure resistance. I think at about 0.05 ohm a typical V8 starter loses about half of its power in the wiring.

Instead of measuring resistance, measure voltage drop while your are using, or try to use that connection. It is very difficult for the average person (or evan a good engineer with specialized equipment) to measure 0.05 ohms. Just make sure the volatge drop is less than about 1 (or at most 2) volts across that connection.

TerryMSU
 
Top