Sport-craft restore

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

If this was my boat, I wouldn't do half a job. Replace the stringers, deck and more than likely you will need to replace the transom. For the extra work you won't regret it. You will have a boat that will outlast you. This sounds like it's been done before but because it wasn't done right it rotted more. These SportCraft boats are nice but I'm quite sure it wasn't originally built without foam. Just my two cents worth. I totally rebuilt mine and not once had any regrets. Good luck.

I already figured out I have to replace the transom, lot worse than I thought, so no crazy construction on it. From what I have seen so far with the stringers and deck my half job would be better than what I found. I was thinking the boat was heavy because of wet foam so I was surprised not to find any at all, they might have done me a favor by taking it out. They did a good job too, have not found any signs of foam yet but after your guys comments on it I will be looking for it. Replacing the stringers are the last thing I want to do rather just clean the wood out and reconstruct them. I do know someone who knows how to frame so I'm prepared for the replacement option. I see you would be a good sportcraft boats, hard to find information on the ones made in the early 70's. It's shame I can't find any technical information on them online.

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: Sport-craft restore

It is hard to find. There were more than one company under that name as well. There is the Canadian company Sportcraft. Then there is Sport-Craft and Sport Craft. Spinning heads here. Do you have the HIN number of your boat? It would be on the top right on the outside of your transom. That will give you a bit of info.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

It is hard to find. There were more than one company under that name as well. There is the Canadian company Sportcraft. Then there is Sport-Craft and Sport Craft. Spinning heads here. Do you have the HIN number of your boat? It would be on the top right on the outside of your transom. That will give you a bit of info.

I've looked using that the company has gone out of business it was out of Perry FL originally if I remember correctly. I can't get to the boat right now, I got to go back to work and earn a paycheck so I can spend it on the boat. I think the only way to get the info is from an original worker or someone who has worked on the extensively on the boats. It's not a project killer just information nice to have on an old boat, especially when you are tearing it apart.

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Check out this little tidbit. http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/Sport_Craft

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Check out this little tidbit. http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/Sport_Craft

That's where I got most of my information. Good source for those that have found it yet though.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Ok, I haven't got much done on the boat during the holidays unless you call reading iboat forums and doing research work. Has anyone used a product called Thermo-Lite Board by SpaceAge Synthetics, Ltd for their transom or deck? Really would like to know how it worked for them. Looks like from what info I've received from the company so far this might be reasonable priced for me; they are slow on their e-mails since I'm just an individual buyer with no dealer near me. Of course they are only going to say good things about their product. If anyone has used this product feel free to comment or PM me.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Ok, I'm back to working on the boat, spent the winter working on my truck. So far I have taken off 239lbs, metal plate, wet, rotted plywood, and fiberglass. I've learned a few things along the way. Biggest one, I don't think I will be fishing this year unless I'm lucky. Here are some pictures of my work so far since I last posted.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Here are some more pics.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

More

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

The transom area. Most if it is out and it came out to 37lbs and still wet the boat has been in the water since November and stored inside. My calculations from what littel I know it should have weighed twice as much.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Pics of the front passenger area of the boat which has turned into a pain for several reasons. 1st, I now have two more holes in the boat. 2nd, it appears to be straight fiberglass with no wood. 3rd, spent money on a small circular saw (Rockwell) to prevent going thru the hull only to go right thru the hull in the first 30min of use

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

After completely opening up the boat I noticed that the fiberglass looked very dark, now that it has aired out better; I noticed that is has lighted up. I can only assume that this was water that has evaporated, unless someone tells me something different.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Ok now that the heat wave has broken and I can work more than an hour on the boat. Can anyone give me acetone alternatives. I looked for Bio-solv locally but they want an arm and a leg to order it for me. I was wondering what else maybe out there that works that won't kill my lungs?

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Can I use Bondo Resin? It says for marine use on the can.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Can't help on an acetone alternative that's less offensive or harmful. MEK might be used, but for polyester resin & fiberglass work I'm not sure it's a good option, and it is more offensive, and more expensive...

If you are doing any poly resin & fiberglass work, save the glass scraps & make your own filler out of the resin and cut up & shredded glass scraps (1/4" chopped fibers). Only need to get a couple quarts of cabosil (fumed silica) and a quart or 2 of micro ballons (easy to sand).

For my 15' Glastron, my supply order will include 5qts Cabosil $7.25, 2qts Microballons, $8, and making my own chopped fibers. Chopped fibers in powder form, is also available & I may or may not order some. But I do not have stringers to replace.

I don't know how much the bondo costs & how much volume that gives you, but you'll have most of the cost to make your own already covered w/ you resin order, and depending on whether you're making structural repairs (hairy PB w/ chopped fibers, hard to sand) or finer filler (easy sanding made w/ micro ballon PB) the bondo may or may not meet every needed type of 'filler' or filleting material.

Some bondo fiberglass fillers are made w/ talc as a filler ingredient. If uncovered, from dock/trailer rash/damage, or a scratch, the talc can absorb water & hasten the filler's failure. And probably shouldn't be used below the waterline 1 way or the other, esp if talc based.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Can't help on an acetone alternative that's less offensive or harmful. MEK might be used, but for polyester resin & fiberglass work I'm not sure it's a good option, and it is more offensive, and more expensive...

If you are doing any poly resin & fiberglass work, save the glass scraps & make your own filler out of the resin and cut up & shredded glass scraps (1/4" chopped fibers). Only need to get a couple quarts of cabosil (fumed silica) and a quart or 2 of micro ballons (easy to sand).

For my 15' Glastron, my supply order will include 5qts Cabosil $7.25, 2qts Microballons, $8, and making my own chopped fibers. Chopped fibers in powder form, is also available & I may or may not order some. But I do not have stringers to replace.

I don't know how much the bondo costs & how much volume that gives you, but you'll have most of the cost to make your own already covered w/ you resin order, and depending on whether you're making structural repairs (hairy PB w/ chopped fibers, hard to sand) or finer filler (easy sanding made w/ micro ballon PB) the bondo may or may not meet every needed type of 'filler' or filleting material.

Some bondo fiberglass fillers are made w/ talc as a filler ingredient. If uncovered, from dock/trailer rash/damage, or a scratch, the talc can absorb water & hasten the filler's failure. And probably shouldn't be used below the waterline 1 way or the other, esp if talc based.

This is just plain bondo resin. I'm not going to put anything that absorbs water if I can at all help it. I'm going to be using acetone the alternative stuff is expensive and the the place where I wanted to get it from wants me to by 4 gallons (I tried).

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Sport-craft restore

You'll likely need 15+gals of resin to do the transom, stringers & deck. Is the bondo resin cost effective in that large a volume. And 4gals of acetone may not be enough...

Normally, when I hear bondo, I think filler, so that's why the talc came to mind.... I don't really know anything about Bondo Resin for fiberglass work....

Laminating resin in 5gal pails is usually the most cost effective choice for resin. This might help you estimate how much & how fast you'll use resin. It's a free downloadable fiberglass guide....

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

You'll likely need 15+gals of resin to do the transom, stringers & deck. Is the bondo resin cost effective in that large a volume. And 4gals of acetone may not be enough...

Normally, when I hear bondo, I think filler, so that's why the talc came to mind.... I don't really know anything about Bondo Resin for fiberglass work....

Laminating resin in 5gal pails is usually the most cost effective choice for resin. This might help you estimate how much & how fast you'll use resin. It's a free downloadable fiberglass guide....

Thanks for the info which is what I was thinking. Some say I won't need that much, but from what I have read and given this is my first time fiberglassing, I'm thinking 5 gal. Especially since the deck is going to be glassed on both sides, when this boat needs to be restored again I will be dead.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Ok I now have my first order of supplies I thought I would practice on the rear part of the cap that I had cutoff to get to the transom. A close looked showed that the glass is crushed where the motor is bolted and along the edges the glass is separating from the gelcoat. Since this is my first attempt at fiberglassing any ideas on doing this easily. Not that anything has been easy on this boat.

The material that I have to work with is 1.5 CSM, 6 oz S-glass and 1708. I'm using polyester resin, all from US Composites.
The reason why I decided to work on this first besides needing practice; I have a habit of standing on the back of the boat to fish so I thought I would reinforce it.

Hope you guys can give me some good ideas on this problem.