Sport-craft restore

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Hope someone can help me with this cap issue. Sanded down the rough spots until I burn through the glass and made some extra holes:facepalm:

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

This weekend was very productive came across an article about cleaning the hull with hot soapy water so I went one better and added some simple green and used blowgun off an aircompressor worked great still have a lot more to do but got other work to do before I get into the hull.



It was also the first time I had beer in the powered storage unit. Figured I would add a pic of the evidence

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

This weekend was also the weekend I had to hire a teenager of a friend. Took everything but the boat out of the workshop and dusted everything down. He's still interested in helping with glassing and the fumes that go with it. This is going to cost me


Another beer shot

Now I'm ready to start restoring next weekend but the weatherman is not cooperating with the temperature More stuff to get heater and lights.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Qestion: How long do I have to wait before applyig fiberglass layers? I will be using unwaxed poly and my first layer will be 1.5oz mat.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Sport-craft restore

About 20 minutes. It will start to harden and get tacky. When that happens you can wet it out and lay the next layer. It's called wet on wet an it's the preferred method. What's your layup schedule after the first layer of CSM? I noticed you order 6oz S-Glass. What's your plan for it?

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

About 20 minutes. It will start to harden and get tacky. When that happens you can wet it out and lay the next layer. It's called wet on wet an it's the preferred method. What's your layup schedule after the first layer of CSM? I noticed you order 6oz S-Glass. What's your plan for it?

I will be working on the back part of the cap I cut off to get to the transom, taking the whole cap off wasn't an option. The edges where it's screwed in the hull are worn and delaminated, I've sanded down with 36 grit. I also have a habit of standing on it when I'm fishing.

I do have 1708, I'm not sure how I'm going to lay the glass. I figured this piece would be a good place to learn to glass before I get to a critical part like my transom. (post #45 show the area of the cap where the motor attaches too)

Thanks for the reply, look forward infinate knowledge on glassing.

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: Sport-craft restore

For extra layers the 20min is a good time just remember that there will still be some exothermic heat left in the laminate and you'll have to work faster. The industry and US Navy standard is that to get a primary bond (mostly chemical) you can go up to 18 hours between layers. After that its called a secondary bond (mostly mechanical) and you will need to abrade (grind) the surface before the nex layer.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks George. So I could get all my layers on in one day to include gel coat? Heat will be a good thing around here Saturday.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Soo...what exactly are you going to be glassing first???

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Soo...what exactly are you going to be glassing first???

The back part of my cap



The circled areas are holes that shouldn't broken glass and me burning through it with a sander.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Sport-craft restore

OK, Here's what I'd do... On the side showing in the pic, sand all around the holes so you have at least 3" to 4" of good fresh glass exposed. Wash it all really well with Acetone. Then, on the underside use wax paper and duct tape and tape over all the holes. Cut a piece of CSM about 1" larger than the hole. Apply resin to the sanded surface area and apply the patch. Use a cheap Chip Brush (TIP: cut half the length of the bristles off) and "DAB" do not brush the resin onto the CSM and try to form the CSM to the inner edges of the hole. Do this to ALL of the holes. When you're done there will still be a depression where the hole is. When the patches set up a bit (about an Hour) Mix up some PB... (250 ML of Resin(about a cup) 250 ML of Cabosil and 25 ML of Chopped Strand Fibers (CSF) Add more cabosil till it's the consistency of Creamy PB. Then ad 3.0 ML of MEKP (hardener) and mix well for 45 secs. Fill the depressions with the PB and smooth em out. Let cure for a couple of hours. Last Cut patches 2-3" larger than the holes from CSM and apply them. When you flip it over all you'll need to do is mix some Fairing Material and Sand and Fair the patched areas and you'll be ready for Primer/Paint or gelcoat.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks that answers one of my questions. I plan on glassing the whole thing. The edges where the cap ties into the hull are real bad in some spots. After looking at the cap I figured that was a good place to learn since I will have to use everthing from thickened resin to gelcoat. Yes I'm gelcoating the underside tired of looking at a blackhole everytime I have an issue under there, plus I'm going to put some led lights underneath for when I go fishing at night.

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Still,,,do what wood said over the holes first and then glass the whole thing.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Well this weekend did my first glass work ever First time in months that I worked on the boat and didn't have the itchies. Didn't get everything I wanted to do; I had to deal with the low tempatures. but it was a good learning experience and confidence builder. Now the back half of my cap has cloth of some sort on it, not just csm. Did have some problems with air pockets but so did the original manufacture which I discovered when I was a sanding and a grinding.



I am keeping a log of the tempature and the amount of catalyst used. Did learn what my miminum working tempature is. 64 degrees. 60 degrees wasn't working I know I wasn't using enough catalyst. Now that I have a clue has to what I'm doing, less worried about making a hot mix.

Now I'm going to have to get another heater so I can work during the winter

Wood and George thanks for the advice.

Next weekend I will start the work on the transom and inspect my work done this weekend. Transom ought to be fun since I will be working on a vertical surface

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Well my second week of glassing. Today I made my first batch of PB not a pleasent experience but in the end it managed to work. I spread the PB out where I had taken the transom down to the gelcoat and burned a hole through grinding. Then I layed a layer of CSM (1.5oz)+6oz S-glass+1708+CSM. My question is what is do I need to do more before I put the transom in? I will have several weeks before I get back to the transom; I have to go see my mom who has cancer and it is likely the last time I see her alive. So if there is anything else I need to do before I leave I got tomorrow to do it.



I thoiught I had screwed up but once the resin started to set it started looking pretty good I impressed myself. I used lights on the outside to get the resin going. I had better tempature this time I started at 66 and got it up to 71 degrees air tempature. I heated up the resin and transom before I started working on it. Darn sure is nice to have a not so fragile transom for a change.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Well just inspected my work after 23hrs of curring, I was almost able to push the boat from the transom and didn't hear any cracking sounds. I was worried that the glass not adhering to the old part of the transom not so worried now. Did find two small areas of air that will have to be ground out

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Use 60 grit sand paper and a R/O sander to sand the skin smooth as you can. Wipe down with Acetone and prepare to install the transom. The thick coat of PB you'll use to glue the transom in will fill any minor imperfections. GOOD JOB!!!

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks. I forgot to add that there is 1708 on the transom. Do I need to tab around the edges of the current glass before I put the transom in, or am I just over-engineering.

Use 60 grit sand paper and a R/O sander to sand the skin smooth as you can. Wipe down with Acetone and prepare to install the transom. The thick coat of PB you'll use to glue the transom in will fill any minor imperfections. GOOD JOB!!!

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: Sport-craft restore

Im in Gardner, I think I have been working on my boat for 2 months longer then you have and I have not even touched a piece of glass yet. Not fair. I also like several others put holes in my hull when grinding. They say that is how we really become members. How was filling those holes? Congrats of your start. IM impressed

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Sport-craft restore

It's been an adventure. I really started making progress when I got a storage unit with power. I was hauling it to somebody shop and spent more time cleaning and taking tools in and out than anything else. Now I can go whenever I feel like it. I don't have a lot of free time, I work full time, school full time and somewhere I find time to work on my boat. I thought when I retired from the army my life would slow down, It hasn't. I just don't move or deploy anymore.

I bought a small circular saw to keep from putting holes in my hull, within 30min of use I put two holes in the bottom of my boat. Haven't used it since, pulled back out the full size to finish cutting the deck out; no new holes. I sanded through some spots in the corner of the transom but those are above the water line.

If you get down to it I have been working on this boat even longer spent 6 months reading online and here on how to do it before I touched it. Still learning something almost every day. I have dreams about my boat now I guess I could have worse dreams. Room mate hates me now. She didn't mind being out on the water even though the boat was actually unsafe but now that spend time and money working on it she complains. Hope she moves out.

Im in Gardner, I think I have been working on my boat for 2 months longer then you have and I have not even touched a piece of glass yet. Not fair. I also like several others put holes in my hull when grinding. They say that is how we really become members. How was filling those holes? Congrats of your start. IM impressed