Sport-craft restore

Woodonglass

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks. I forgot to add that there is 1708 on the transom. Do I need to tab around the edges of the current glass before I put the transom in, or am I just over-engineering.

Ok, Here's how it should be done The entire wood transom should be encapsulated with CSM. Then it's glued to the skin with PB and coved fillets created with the squeeze out. Tabbing is done with 8" strips of CSM followed by 8" strips of 1708. Then a Full Layer of 1708 is applied to the entire transom and it extends 3-4" past the tabbing. Finally but not always a layer of CSM is applied to Hide the large texture pattern of the 1708. Don't have to do this step. Mainly for looks.
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Wood which would be better 3 1/2in plywood or 2 3/4 plywood. Also what plywood from HD would be good. Menard's has marine grade but they don't cut lumber and hauling full 8ft sheets in a a ranger is a PITA.

The only reason anybody should be complaining about my transom is if it's leaking otherwise they can go for a swim:D

So I do have enough glass on there now? I thought about adding some more.

Ok, Here's how it should be done The entire wood transom should be encapsulated with CSM. Then it's glued to the skin with PB and coved fillets created with the squeeze out. Tabbing is done with 8" strips of CSM followed by 8" strips of 1708. Then a Full Layer of 1708 is applied to the entire transom and it extends 3-4" past the tabbing. Finally but not always a layer of CSM is applied to Hide the large texture pattern of the 1708. Don't have to do this step. Mainly for looks.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Sport-craft restore

I'd try to find Arauco Plywood. It's 7ply and almost no voids. 3/4" is what I'd use. Menards sometimes has the Arauco.
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Ok. If Menards would cut lumber I'd be happier. I'm lucky the greatest hieght on my transome is just under 24in which means 2 straight cuts and I can start shaping the transom. I can't cut a straight line to save my life.

I'd try to find Arauco Plywood. It's 7ply and almost no voids. 3/4" is what I'd use. Menards sometimes has the Arauco.
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Can anyone tell me if home depot sells good quality plywood that can be used on a transom? I can get Arauco and marine plywood at Menard. I'm trying to make up some time after dealing with family matters, my Menards does not cut lumber and hauling and cutting their pieces requires time and extra planning, I'm trying to get the transom done before it gets to cold to work large pieces.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Sport-craft restore

If you can't cut your own plywood I'd say you're gunna have a difficult time restoring your boat. It's fairly simple to cut out a transom with nothing more than and jig saw. 100% accuracy is NOT required. 1/2" gaps are acceptable. PB will fill the gaps nicely.
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

I can cut it, I'm trying to save some time in my busy life. You answered one of my questions, but what it the mininum gap? Nothing has gone as planned on this boat, the four weekends I haven't been home have been almost ideal for glass work. Next weekend's forecast "cold". One good thing I did get some advice from someone who builds boats for a living and saw his production shop.
Thanks again Wood.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Sport-craft restore

You want @ least 1/4" so the PB will squeeze out and seal all the edges. You should be able to cut out the transom an glue and screw it together in about 2 hours. You can then glass it in another 2 hours and have it ready for installation. Gunna be in the 70's tomorrow. You could "Git er Dun" if you work hard.
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Yea if I wasn't three weeks behind in three college courses and everything is due in the next 10-14 days. Oh I still have a full time job with an inspection starting Monday.
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Well I got my rough cut of my transom, I suck a wood work. I bought long straight edge ruler and a long level which revealed another issue. I have up to 3/4in defrection primarily where the moter hung. Can this be solved when I glue and set the transom in?
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Well today was productive, I got the transom shaped and made some clamps thanks to WOG. The clamps need some fine tuning. I had to clamp the transom in place hoping that it will straighten the outer skin some.

DSCI0179 (Small).JPGDSCI0176 (Small).JPGDSCI0178 (Small).JPG

WOG clamps are awesome!
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Looks good, and seems to have pulled the 3/4" deflection back to straight.

Your positive that the transom wasn't supposed to have a slight curve to it, correct?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Sport-craft restore

remember on the clamps to use them correctly us tigten them until the space is about even the tighten the lower bolt an LOOSEN the upper bolt.
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Nope, I'm not sure. Read a book about restoring boats like mine and several forums on here about out of shape transoms so I'm assuming mine is. Yea I know assuming is bad. It did pull up nicely and fairly eadily when I put the clamps on.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Is there any curve in the cap/splashwell at the transom? Your 1 pix doesn't show the transom & rear of the cap very well...

Checking the fit of the cap before final installation of the transom, may be in order. It is somewhat more likely that the rotted wood allowed the transom to sag......
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Don't know what is up with reply with quote tonight.

Thanks WOG, I'm sure the transom will come in and out several times before it is actually glassed in. I told my helper we will have to be experts at getting it clamped in quickly when the final time comes. The two pieces of plywood still have to be glued together. I can't cut a straight line to save my life, but a belt sander made up for it. It looked so good when I stopped work, I was ready for a motor.
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks jb, I will have to look at the cap again. It appears to be straight, I tried to fit the cap on with the transom in and it lined up pretty good when I pushed the outer skin in. I'm thinking the sagging occurred because of the rotting transom.
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

The other thing I'm doing is keeping notes on outside tempature and inside tempature, no sense in planning on glassing when I can't get it warm enough. So far i found i can glass at 60 degrees which from what I have read is minimum, but I have found 64 degrees much better.

The other thing I did before I stopped working on the boat today was to place a piece of plywood on the outside of the transom with the transom clamped in. I then aimed three of the lights I have at the sagging part of the transom for some heat hoping that will straighten it out some. Hoping a week of being clamped will make a noticeable differrence. I know one thing that won't be flexing is the transom plywood.

I can hardly wait to see what the finished dry transom wieghs. I took out 37lbs of crap from the transom during the gutting.
 

Bill3434

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Re: Sport-craft restore

Well I'm about ready to glue the wood together, still got some shaping to do. I have a question on know on the sides I can have space but I'm wondering how much space there should be between the transom and the hull bottom when I set the transom in?
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Sport-craft restore

1/4" gap at all edges, to be filled w/ PB & cove filleted. If there is any squeeze out when you clamp the transom into place, use it to begin filling the gap & making the fillets.

Happy decorating day:
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