Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit/ Stringers, Transom and Deck PICS

AquaChef

Cadet
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
7
I first want to thank all the many contributers here with their project documentations. You have helped me so much over the years with my boat project(s). I've been a member here before but can't seem to logon with my old pass and name so I registered again. Thought some of you might find this new project of mine interesting. Never can hurt to see one more. There will be pics tomorrow so Its kinda boring until then! Sorry. Heres my story and I'm sticking with it!

I refitted a 96 Bayliner 2252 Cierra, a Hurricane Ivan survivor a few years ago and have enjoyed it with my family since, many lessons learned along the way as I put in new power, all the electrical, redo cabin and upholstery, new trim tabs, docking lights,.(Got the boat and trailer for 800 bucks off ebay, quite the bargain I thought at the time. How many of us have said that "gotta have it, the trailer is worth that!"... Don't believe it!). I didn't have to do much glass work other than the mounting for a trim tab pump and a few new options as the hull was in excellent shape. I've done some light fiberglass work in the past as well as a few vintage car redos and a few other boats so I'm somewhere between a novice and your average factory boat builder on a Friday. I am a stickler for doing it right though!

Now I'm helping my best bud to refit a 60 something 25 foot? Sportcraft Sea Eagle circa 1960 something from the hull up. We already refitted the trailer and are almost complete with that project. Just have to refit the brakes and lighting. (I've heard they may be important!)

We were going to fix a soft spot in the aft flooring of the boat but after cutting up a bit of the deck we found rot. No surprise since the boat is 40+ years old, just wasn't expecting so much. We cut a bit further and found that old crappy sprayed in (pumped in?) foam has been holding 6 inches of water almost all the way to the forward cuddy bulkhead for several years. So, the stringers are toast all the way to the cuddy. The good news is there is good wood from the captains seat forward through the cuddy.

So, before I started cutting out stringers I have a few questions and comments to throw out to the community here:

1. I plan to use epoxy only for all of the glass work. Would poly resin (which I have many gallons of) be okay to coat the stringers with before installation , or am I asking for trouble later? Should it all be epoxy? I've read that there are adhesion issues, maybe water intrusion later. Would poly coated stringers be incompatible with epoxy over csm over the poly coated stringers? I'd like to poly the deck boards and stringers, then use epoxy over csm if there aren't major issues with doing that. Once again, I have lots of poly.

2. We don't plan to refoam (floatation) anything. My bud (owner of the project) say's "If it goes down, Goodbye!" I have a hard time thinking that way but it is his boat. Neither one of us wants the rot that happened because of the foam to happen again in the future. We think that drainage from under the deck is more important. Is there a better way?

3. Will the cost of importing fir for the stringers outweigh the use of untreated clear pine? I can get really nice dry, clear, fine grain pine to do the stringers here but have never dealt with replacing them in this big of a project. I've scabbed some in before and didn't have any problems with it.

4. I'm going to do a core sample of the transom when I get the stringers cut out. My gut feeling is there will be some issues at the bilge. I won't go on here about what I should do; it seems like the general consensus is cut it and replace it. I would like to know though, how many have done the poured in epoxy transom and have had good results.

I'll post an outline for the project next post with some pics of where we are starting from. I've already got the deck completely pulled and all the soggy foam pulled, chopped, shredded, hammered...etc, and most all the delammed fiberglass out.(so you don't get to hear me ***** about how hard that was, you've done it you know, you haven't look out, its the worst part of it all besides paying for it!) I've already worked most of the itchies out from that! Sorry no great pics of the before and afters but we've already been there done that!

Here are some general specs for the project:

Fresh 165hp Merc I6 we have already built (to replace the feeble, gasping 150 Merc I6) , allowance made for future replacement with one of several merc v-8s we have (one good 5.0L and several 5.0's in pieces). Build the stringers now to suit both options.

New Interior paint to replace the 40+ year old vinyl upholstery and pull all the staples where it was attached, (what's with those 60's colors?) interior siding, replace the rotted stanchions and reinforce the gunwhales.

New deck layout with fishing the Gulf in mind. Rod storage, bait well and live well, new passenger seats for 4 with comfort etc in mind. Yes fresh water cooling is a high priority! We won't ride in saltwater till that is in. We are on the Tennessee river at this point.

Pull the windscreen and replace the sealant/gasket. Fix some rotten sub deck plywood on the forward starboard cuddy deck, maybe a new forward deck hatch, new chocks and fittings as needed, maybe an anchor davit and hatch. We have several donor boats at hand to help with that as well as several we have gutted in the past. Anyone need a trailer? lol

Figure out how to fit the two 35 gallon aluminum gas tanks we have port and starboard ( have already had the filler necks and vents moved and rewelded) above deck and box them in without cluttering up the deck. They are roughly 18 in wide by 12in tall and 5 ft long. I don't want to sacrifice stringer strength trying to set them below deck. We can't afford custom tanks below the deck. Not much room for that anyway.

Figure out a deck layout that would be suitable for bottom fishing on the Gulf (not too far out probably). I'm sure after re-reading this post some or all are going to give input as to floatation. I'm pushing for it but my bud is holding the funds for this project, totally his call. I'll see where it goes and how hard I can push him with your input. Personally if it was my boat I would stuff the belowdecks with whatever closed cell I could get my hands on cheap. He said maybe all the ping pong balls he could find, lol! He never wants to chop faom again I think.

New electrics, gauges, remote, steering and a comfortable captains chair, and hopefully a more than comfortable co pilot seat!

LOL reading back that's more than general specs, hope I didn't bore you with all that. I'm gonna get the camera out tomorrow and give the visual. I look forward to your input on yet another stringer/deck/who know's what project.

Thanks for your help all, its been a pleasure reading and seeing what you all have built!

I will post pics, I will post pics...tomorrow!

Smooth Water! ~Chef
 

bitterboater

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 7, 2009
Messages
214
Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck

Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck

For the amount of time that you will have that deck torn open box the frame in for the tanks to be below decks.
Tell you r buddy that since the deck is up anyway, he should pour in more expanding foam in case he decides to later, with it up now he can save money later.
Also, if he's spending this much money to start with, put the flotation in now and be prepared in case the boat does start to sink, think an ounce of prevention versus a pound of cure.

that's all for now.
 

osborn159

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
383
Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck

Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck

welcome back, your ? about the epoxy transom material has been used here by several rebuilds, 2 off the top of my head are, 16' nescher ski boat restore by archbuilder and 1962 arkansas traveler restoration by micks110, these 2 have provided me with a graet deal of info for my project, wish i had the budget for the seacast, its pricey
again welcome back and good luck
Dennis
 

AquaChef

Cadet
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
7
Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck

Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck

005.jpg

Its been a tough couple of days at work and at play with the boat if you will! I took a couple of pics with the phone cam the other day and they didn't come out to well so today I took my good camera to the shop and got some pics as promised.

A look at the starboard side with stringers intact, actually nicer than the port side looked before I removed them!
010.jpg


I cut out the port side stringers today, or what was left of them.
015.jpg

I also started prepping the old hull for new glass. The pic above shows some of the grinding I did today. I'm using a pneumatic die grinder/cutter, a sawsall and a side grinder. Heavy duty dust mask and a Tyvek suit are musts!

I'm going to do one side at a time since we aren't moving the boat off of the trailer and I like the extra stability with the starboard side and center bulkheads still in place. Hopefully that will work out as the trailer supports the boat very well. I've measured in key places to check for flexing. I'll move it off the trailer if I see any major movement along the way before any glasswork is done.
I'm off tomorrow and its supposed to be a beautiful day so I hope I can get the port side stringers ready for epoxy!
Smooth Water ~Chef
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck

Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck

That's a real nice looking boat. Well worth the effort to fix up. Good luck with your project!
 

AquaChef

Cadet
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
7
Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

We made a little progress but I had lots of other stuff to do this past week. We gave the new stringer lumber a coat of poly resin. It was a little thick for easy spreading and I found out too late that I could have thinned it with acetone or laquer thinner. I used the minimum amount of hardener for a slow cure and the cool temps helped. I hope to get started measuring and installing this afternoon after work. Looks like boating weather is right around the corner!

Smooth Water! ~Chef
 

AquaChef

Cadet
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
7
Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

After some thought about the 6 inches of water that was being held in the foam between the stringers and after seeing some really huge air bubbles from the factory in the transom, I decided to thoroughly inspect the transom and of course it held some bad news. I've spent the last few days tearing out the transom. The top 1/3 is good dry solid wood so we have decided to forgo pulling the top cap and just repair the bottom 2/3 that was completely rotten. I had to go ahead and remove the starboard stringers to accomplish the transom removal but with the centerline bulkheads still in place it seems the boat is solid. I've taken lots of pics along the way and will try to get some posted soon.

I'm almost ready to purchase epoxy and glass and from what research I've done the best prices are at US Composites. I haven't found any local dealers that can come close to their prices. Anyone else got any suggestions for suppliers?

Smooth Water, ~Chef
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

Somehow I didn't see this thread before.

Don't mix and match your resin types, use only one from start to finish.

Either resin will work fine, but you'll have problems using both, plus it can cost a great deal more with poorer results.

Just use plywood for most everything, no need bring in any special wood.
 

AquaChef

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Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
7
Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

Thanks for the input. I understand that one shouldn't mix epoxy and poly where strength is required. We are only using the poly where some waterproofing might be a factor. We had several gallons of poly and decided to use it on the stringers and a few other places such as the cuddy underdeck that weren't going to get epoxied in. We are bedding the stringers with PL premium and making the filets with epoxy PB made from chopped strand. Didn't figure that there would be any issues with the epoxy bonding over the scuff sanded stringers. Do you think there might be adhesion issues with the epoxy/glass over the poly'd stringers? I'll be using the US Composites it looks like at this point.

What I found behind the port side stringer
C_Eagle026.jpg


The nasty bubble from the factory after grinding it down
C_Eagle029.jpg


Inner glass removed, if it hadn't been for the 1/4 inch of outer hull the outdrive was a goner soon. Also found a crack in the inner transom bracket from all of the flexing. Its been sent off to the welder for repair.
C_Eagle047.jpg


95% of the transom removal done. It looks like in the pic that the plywood is still in but that's just the ink that bled into the resin. I was surprised how quickly I was able to get to this point. I had planned on a couple of days to get to this point but it only took a few hours. Having the right tool has helped a lot. Getting everything smoothed out will be the couple days I think! Gonna have to get some smaller cutting disks to get the corners done unless anyone knows of a magic tool that does close in corner work. Anyone? Looks like I just added about 20 hours of grinding and prep to my "to do" list. Still shooting for the end of April for sea trials! I guess I'm the eternal optomist
C_Eagle051.jpg


The scariest thing I've seen so far is all of the voids between joints, etc... The worst I think was where the transom joined the port side where there was at least a 1/2 inch space between the plywood and gunnels. One good smack against a pier pylon and it woulda been all over.

I'm itching (literally!) to get my boat de-winterized and on the water this coming week as the weather is finally supposed to break!

My barge! A whole nuther project I finished. I bought it off Ebay for 800 bucks! This is an early pic from 3 years ago.
2006_0805Bayliner_22520010.jpg


Since then:
013_13A.jpg


Smooth Water! ~Chef
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

You just coated your stringers with a product that has less bonding strength and a different chemical make up than epoxy. Any areas you don't sand well will have a poor bond, plus the bond to the wood will be poorer. so why even use it. Now that you've started with polyester you might as well finish with it, why spend the extra money for epoxy now.

Like I said either product will work fine, but I don't see the reasoning behind pre-coating all of the wood with polyester and then going to epoxy. People like to use epoxy because of the fact that it does bond to wood much better than polyester does.
 

AquaChef

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Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
7
Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

Re: Sportcraft C-Eagle Refit Here We Go! Stringers and Deck PICS

Yeah, the poly coated stringers weren't the best idea since we are going to use epoxy I agree. We've rethought the project and have decided to go 100% epoxy for the extra strength. We had too much time on our hands when we coated the stringers with poly. We'll either sand them down as best we can or scrap them at this point, we have a wait for materials at this point anyway. In the meantime, I cut out the supports and engine mount at the centerline and found a bunch of old grease and oil gunk that has built up for the last 45 years, so I cut out the bulkhead at that point to gain access to clean up the mess. It was about an inch thick and now I need to find something to clean out the residue that is embedded in the glass. I used dish soap first and got the majority of it out and some straight acetone with a bronze brush on the remaining stuff but there is still a coat of grease that won't budge. Any suggestions? I was thinking about bilge cleaner but I'm not sure that will be strong enough to get this stuff out. I don't want to grind any more until I can get it clean. I'm almost ready template the transom and start working on that. Still a LOT of grinding to get the stringer beds complete.

The Gunk:
C_Eagle055.jpg


After the first cleaning:
C_Eagle059.jpg


The transom almost ready:
C_Eagle058.jpg


We took the day off yesterday, got my Bayliner ready and had a beautiful uneventful day on the Tennessee River!

Smooth Water ~Chef
 
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