Spring Prep

TROLLING

Cadet
Joined
Dec 31, 2002
Messages
19
Ok guys I need some help here. I've been trying to get my boat preped and the guy at the marina keeps putting me off. Decided to do it myself. I have a 1992, Force 150 hp. I bought the boat at the end of the season last year. The head end was rebuilt two years ago and the lower unit last spring. I know the guy I bought it off of and the boat ran great. I am a pretty good auto mechanic and have done everything including rebuilding the engine. Outboards don't know a thing. I got the book I know I have to lube the lower unit and I read how to do that. What else should I be looking for before I start her up. How much water should I see flowing through from the hose connection and how long can I run it on the hose. Any words of wisdom will help except don't do it. I intend to learn this motor and I guess in the driveway is a good place to start. Thanks in advance for the benefit of all your mistakes. :)
 

2770

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 31, 2003
Messages
102
Re: Spring Prep

Before you crank,I would remove the plugs,squirt some fogging oil in each cylinder,put the plugs back in and come back tomorrow.Then remove the plugs and crank w/o plugs to expell the fogging oil.Put plugs back in,attach earmuffs with garden hose and start it up.You should also replace fuel/water seperator and get some fresh fuel in the tank.After it is running ,and a good amount of water is coming out,put in new plugs and you should be good.
 

TROLLING

Cadet
Joined
Dec 31, 2002
Messages
19
Re: Spring Prep

Thanks CC The motor was winterized properly in that they fogged the cylinders etc. Do you think I should fog again and wait a day. I assum your concerned I'll damage a ring or scratch a cylinder. I'm expecting when I crank her up I'll get a good deal of smoke. After that burns off I'll put the new plugs in as you suggested. Thanks for the reply Good luck and God Bless you and yours.
 

TROLLING

Cadet
Joined
Dec 31, 2002
Messages
19
Re: Spring Prep

CC hope your still there. Fuel/water seperator I guess that is located in line before the bulb??
 

Solittle

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 28, 2002
Messages
7,518
Re: Spring Prep

If your motor was winterized properly all you should need to do is make sure that your battery is fully charged and fire it up - on hose of course. After the first time out you might want to look at the plugs and check the oil in the lower unit.<br /><br />Do you know when was the last time the impeller was changed? If not replace it.
 

TROLLING

Cadet
Joined
Dec 31, 2002
Messages
19
Re: Spring Prep

Thanks for the reply the boat was winterized at the marina and the I am confident they did it right although I've decided to change the lubricant in the lower unit. As I said I am a decient car mechanic but the outboard is new to me. I was going to crank it up today and I put the muffs and the hose on but the water didn't circulate through the motor. Does the motor have to be running for the water to run through. I didn't try to crank it until I find out about this. I know the water pump will get messed up quickly with no water. I did get out the book but it doesn't talk about that. I guess this is a simple question for someone who grew up with boats. I had a boat twenty years ago I used to run that in a barrel. Well if someone can take moment on this I would appreciate it. Thanks
 

dgohmann

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 12, 2002
Messages
49
Re: Spring Prep

Engine needs to run to circulate water. Engine running turns the impeller which pushes water up to the block.<br /><br />Dan
 

Spidybot

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2002
Messages
1,734
Re: Spring Prep

Agree with SoLittle.<br /><br />When on muffs turn up the water as much as you can. It will sprinkle from the muffs near the water intake as you supply more than needed, but rather this than too little. And remember to keep revs. low. The motor is not running under normal conditions/load and could suffer.<br /><br />You should look over all moving parts (cables, links) around our remote and apply MARINE grease to these parts. Has nothing to do with your motor itself but improves allover working & pleasure.<br /><br />Very good idea to keep an eye on stuff between uses over the season, too. Only if servicing the gear when not in use can you expect perfect service from the gear when you need it. Any sign, sound or behaviour that is not normal should be investigated. Keeps running costs low and prevents major (costly) breakdowns.
 

TROLLING

Cadet
Joined
Dec 31, 2002
Messages
19
Re: Spring Prep

Thanks UU, I checked the lower unit oil today and it at the fill port and it was a light blue looked fresh so I left that alone. I put the muffs on and water full bore as you suggested. Primed the bulb and the engine started in less then three seconds. I expected to see water coming out the exhaust immediately but it didn't. I only let it run a minute or less. Now I'm reading it says there is a thermostate in the block (just like a car) I guess I should have let it run a few moments for the block to warm up an the Thermostate to open?? That's a question. The repair manual I have shows all the lub points and I will hit them all. Thanks very much for everyone's excellent advice. Answer this last one and I'll leave you guys alone for awhile. Take care and God Bless you and yours.
 
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