Starcraft 1974 22' Chieftain Restoration

ezmobee

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

I'm going to optimistically say that the paint on this boat is in such rough shape, that it will quickly succumb to standard chemical strippers.
 

timfives

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Guys,

Thanks for the advice on the soda blasting. I've done a little sandblasting in the past, that would obviously be to coarse. but is it the same equipment with different media, soda = bicarbonate, or is it totally different apparatus? I will look for quotes around here, as well.

If not i'm sure EZ will have no problem sniffing some fumes with me ;)

t
 

jasoutside

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Keep in mind, this is 22 feet of paint removal, plus full cabin...

I remember as I was prepping for paint on my Islander, in my head I was singing...

"This is the hull that never ends, it goes on and on and on...."

(and my job was really pretty easy actually)

So ya, the amount of time plus sand paper really added up.

If you can find a guy who can do it reasonably, go for it. Couple of hours and you are ready to move on to the next step.

If not, I'm sure chemical stripper would work just fine.
 

GA_Boater

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

GA_Boater you know sometimes your words slice like a knife. But that is actually pretty darn cool!

I only said the bottom feeder bit cause I'm one too, Tim. :D On that soda blaster I haven't tried it but a lot peeps swear by it. And it won't cost much to rig up and try. Unless you don't have a air compressor. Don't blame me. :rolleyes:
 

timfives

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Well we've come to an interesting cross roads already and i haven't turned a wrench on the boat yet. I've been thinking about all the applications of a soda blaster. Boat, Trailer, Parts, among other things. I've found that soda blasters are actually cheaper to buy vs. paying someone to come and do it for you. My biggest issue at the moment is my air compressor. While sufficient for what it is it surely won't push a blaster.

other reasons to start with a new air compressor.
- Blaster
- Die Grinder
- Sander
- Impact Wrench
- Paint Gun

I'm thinking of heading over to Tractor Supply this weekend for an Ingersoll Rand, then wire up some 220 to the garage. Wow did this project already get expensive..

T


I only said the bottom feeder bit cause I'm one too, Tim. :D On that soda blaster I haven't tried it but a lot peeps swear by it. And it won't cost much to rig up and try. Unless you don't have a air compressor. Don't blame me. :rolleyes:
 

jasoutside

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

So, if the question is...

"Should I buy a new air compressor?"

Answer...

YES!

What else can we spend your money on?:D
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

I think it's silly to be discussing buying equipment when you haven't even tried chemical strippers yet.
 

timfives

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

I think it's silly to be discussing buying equipment when you haven't even tried chemical strippers yet.

I'm not sure it is silly to have the proper equipment to do the job. aside from the debate about chemical vs mechanical for paint removal, there are a lot of other uses for having an big compressor ready to go.

t
 

MichaelP

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

I think a $300 compressor will do everything you need except run a blaster big enough to do your hull within a reasonable amount of time. Price the soda, I found it to be high. Chem strippers work well and the mess is simple to contain and dispose of. I had 3 coats on the sides and 5 on the bottom below the chine so I chem stripped the sides and rented a BF sand blaster and deisel powered compressor for the day for $150. Used 13 bags of play sand @ $3.50/bag. The bottom is reinforced enough that it didn't warp the aluminum. I would definately try the chem approach first.
Try Zip Strip or Kleen strip in the orange can. Those worked the best for me but hey if you can justify buying a big honkin compressor and all those gozewithits then go for it.
 

sprintst

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

I did the hull with environmental chemical strippers and the trailer with a blaster. I was scared to warp the alum with blasting myself so I went with the stripper instead. The chemical route took multiple applications as I did not have a powerful enough pressure washer.

The blaster with a compressor is always good to have as they are multitudes of things to strip. Next is the trailer hitch :)

If I could have found a deal with guy to do soda blasting I would have went with that. You get a nice clean hull back in a day and and you are ready to move forward.

Try a test strip with a can of zip strip of Kleen strip as my environmental stuff worked but was not the best.
 

rheagler

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Never pass up the opportunity to buy tools. Having said that, from what I know about soda blasting (which isn't much) you need a really big blaster to do the hull efficiently. From what I have heard the small one from Harbor Freight does the area about the size of a pencil eraser. I could definately see using it for small parts though. And an air compressor is something that comes in very handy, I have 3. Get the largest CFM you can justify affording. Oil lubed ones are generally quieter and longer lasting. And while chemical stripping is a lot of work, it is easy to contain the mess and not that bad in the big picture. It's just very time consuming. If you can round up help to do it, it wouldn't be so bad.
 

timfives

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

So in an effort to prepare for the build i'm working on rearranging things in my shed, and making room for materials and the actual work. In doing that i took some time out to test some chemicals to remove the paint.. Well humm, while it is true the paint is shot and peeling the chemical only removed what was peeling. The underside of the boat has some nasty paint that the chemical wouldn't touch....

Tomorrow i may try some other stuff i have, and i'll post some pictures as well... Open to trying other chemicals...
 

timfives

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

I know some of you boys have worked on the transom filling i/o openings and such. i need to get some aluminum sheeting so that i can make a panel that completes the sheet metal up to the gunwales. What grade of aluminum should i get and does anyone know what thickness i should get?


t
 

jasoutside

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

If I were in your shoes I'd just cover the whole thing rather that trying to piece/scab another on top of what you have. I'd be afraid it wouldn't look right or crack maybe. Thickness? Whatever your wallet can afford but you don't need super thick as the transom is what takes the load. So, 1/8" or so?
 

Grandad

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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

I would choose 14 gauge type 5052. You really don't need much thickness, since this sheet is cosmetic, but if you go too thin, any through bolts may tend to dimple the surface. Also, you want the sheet to remain flat, without ripples or bulges while still following the original transom surface. I would also be wary of corrosion between the sheets. Make sure that you put a uniform coat of sealer such as 3M 5200 over the entire mating surface so that water can't seep between the sheets. Trapped fresh water becomes corrosive to aluminum. - Grandad
 

timfives

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Jul 30, 2009
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Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

Re: Starcraft Chieftain Restoration

ja and grandad, Great feedback. I like the idea of just adding a sheet behind the original and living with the lip, probably far easier to fit, then to try and weld a matching piece on.. Also good idea to seal it up, didn't think about that either. So 14 gauge 5052 it is.

thanks guys!

T
 
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