Starcraft Islander project

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Lookin' good skinny!

have you performed a leak-check? might want to do that before the gluvit.

No leak check...I'd have to re-install the lower transom brackets to do so.

I found more corrosion than I expected in the bow (where a steel chain had been stored) and aft, under the grease/oil cakes. Not bad, just didn't expect it. There was also some where the wood floor touched the inner panels (at the chines). This was only at the area where the first floor panels aft of the cabin were...just wonder if those had been replaced with treated plywood at some point.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Ya should never tell us us the reason for your screen name, Skinny. :lol: She is nice and clean. Even 165 can do some flexing when you kneel inside and concentrate the weight. The movable floor piece is a good idea and a lot easier on your knees until the permanent floor is in.

 

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Ya should never tell us us the reason for your screen name, Skinny. :lol: She is nice and clean. Even 165 can do some flexing when you kneel inside and concentrate the weight. The movable floor piece is a good idea and a lot easier on your knees until the permanent floor is in.

Gluvit says that it's "flexible"...but it certainly doesn't sound like it is.

Is there any difference between "marine epoxy" as sold at Lowes and Home Depot, and "Marine Tex"?

 

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Came in early this morning to test the engine before the work day starts. She turns over, but no fire. Coil is good, checked the wire to distributor and it's bad. Proceeded to check all plug wires and they are all bad (?) What are the chances of ALL of the wires being bad?
True, it's in a marine environment, and it probably sat for 6 years, but it just seems unusual to me. I tested my ohm meter during each test and the meter is working.
New wire set will be here by 6pm....a whopping $17!

 

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

One other thing....the wiring diagram shows a "resister wire" going from the coil to who knows where...this is completely missing from my harness.
My test included ONLY 1 mire from the battery to the + coil...one wire from the - coil to the distributor. No other wires to the coil.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Unusual that all the plug wires meter bad. But for 17 smackers What did the cap/rotor look like?

On the Gluvit - I had no problems, but I minimized standing inside the bare hull. I used the temp floor method.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

One other thing....the wiring diagram shows a "resister wire" going from the coil to who knows where...this is completely missing from my harness.
My test included ONLY 1 mire from the battery to the + coil...one wire from the - coil to the distributor. No other wires to the coil.

Do you have upgraded electronic ignition? Or the standard issue Merc? May be time to hit the MerCruiser forums. Those guys are top notch.

 

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Unusual that all the plug wires meter bad. But for 17 smackers What did the cap/rotor look like?

On the Gluvit - I had no problems, but I minimized standing inside the bare hull. I used the temp floor method.

Cap looked fine, rotor and points didn't look too bad but I hit them lightly with an ignition file.

 

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Do you have upgraded electronic ignition? Or the standard issue Merc? May be time to hit the MerCruiser forums. Those guys are top notch.

Standard points...but I've already educated myself on the options

 

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

No joy getting fire to the engine. I "borrowed" a coil-to-distributor wire and still no fire. Picked up the new wire set, points, condenser, rotor button and cap on the way home. Try again tomorrow.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Unusual that all the plug wires meter bad. But for 17 smackers What did the cap/rotor look like?

Both ends of all plug wires should be coated with silicon dielectric grease. A dab on all of the contacts INSIDE the cap and on center and tip of the rotor is also good,

 

[theoldwizard1]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

One other thing....the wiring diagram shows a "resister wire" going from the coil to who knows where...this is completely missing from my harness.
My test included ONLY 1 mire from the battery to the + coil...one wire from the - coil to the distributor. No other wires to the coil.

If the "way back machine" (brain) is working, the "START" position of the ignition key connects the coil directly to the battery. The "RUN" position, connects the coil to the battery via the "resistor wire".

For a quick test, a resistor wire is not required. Make sure to turn the ignition OFF if the engine does not start. If left ON and the points are closed, the coil will over heat without the resistor wire.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

What the Wizard said. When cranking 12 volts is applied to the coil for a hotter spark and in run roughly 6 volts is used to avoid point burning. To test for spark you can jump 12 volts right to the coil, but don't leave it hooked up.

How are you checking for spark, snal?

 

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

What the Wizard said. When cranking 12 volts is applied to the coil for a hotter spark and in run roughly 6 volts is used to avoid point burning. To test for spark you can jump 12 volts right to the coil, but don't leave it hooked up.

How are you checking for spark, snal?

Started out grounding a loose plug, then tested with the wire from the coil to the distributor, both with a jumper directly from the battery to the coil.

I have fire now! Points were the culprit.

The issue now seems to be that all power is cut when I release the remote start switch. I have fire, I have fuel, and she cranks and seems to start as soon as the starter kicks her over, but as soon as I release the switch it's like all power is gone.
I thought it might be the shift interrupter switch but I grounded that (brown) wire and got no fire at all...so that's not it.

 

[Watermann]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

If you jumped the coil hot from the battery then there should be no reason why she won't run when you let go of the ignition switch.

 

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

If you jumped the coil hot from the battery then there should be no reason why she won't run when you let go of the ignition switch.

It's not set up that way now. Power is coming thru a solenoid now. I have 3 loose wires on the engine harness now (other than the brown shift interrupt wire). Purple...Black...and...Orange. I think the black wire was the ground to the shift switch, purple to the oil pressure sensor, and I can't find an Orange wire on the schematic anywhere. All of these wires are in the solenoid/starter/oil pressure sensor area.

 

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Added the jumper wire to the coil...she fired right up and purred like a kitten.

 

[Watermann]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Added the jumper wire to the coil...she fired right up and purred like a kitten.

Now that is good news! :thumb: All you have to do is nail down a few wires and all is well.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Added the jumper wire to the coil...she fired right up and purred like a kitten.

Saaawwwwweeeeeetttttt!:joyous:

 

[snal]

Re: Starcraft Islander project

Took the engine outside and gave her some H2o...she fired right up...idled fine.
There was a strange "whining" noise up front, which turned out to be the lower pulley rubbing the front engine mount. The rubber mount had allowed the bracket to tilt rearward and hit the pulley.
No smoke! No "what's that ticking/knocking noise". No water flowing where it shouldn't be.
Oil pressure readings were from 40 to 50+. Water temp seemed to level off at 140.
Then she just quit!.....the choke linkage arm had vibrated loose and the choke closed...LOL!