Starcraft Rebuild

LarrDawg

Cadet
Joined
Mar 22, 2013
Messages
8
I am moving my Post from the General section to this section. Didn't realize there was section just for Starcraft boats.

I am almost finished rebuilding a 70/71 Starcraft TR-150 (I have been clued in), even though my registration lists it as a '69. The manufacturer's plate is missing although I do have a HIN which is 093315. I do not know what that converts to if anything at all. Anyway, as promised, here is my elaboration on the rebuild which is rather lengthy.

Two years ago I was looking for a relatively cheap boat to ?fix up a little? for local reservoir fishing. I was checking locally (Twin Falls) and in the Boise area on Craigslist and other newspaper and website ads. My son who lives in Boise saw this Starcraft, went to take a look and convinced me to purchase it for $500. The boat had an ugly camo-style paint job, the 40 HP Johnson was a short shaft and incorrect for the boat, and the trailer had a bent axle. Not the greatest way to start but you get what you pay for. I debated for a year on which direction to go; either selling the motor and boat/trailer separately or jumping in with both feet for a rebuild. My best friend told me to bring the boat to his house and we?d put it in his garage and start working on it. We started the rebuild in July ?12 and should be finished in the next few weeks.

We started disassembling the boat and found more problems than we had bargained for. There were miles of wiring that led nowhere and the transom was full of holes from various owners attaching whatever they needed at the time. So much silicone had been used over the years that we filled up a small box of remnants by the time we were finished. The dash on both sides and been cut up and replaced with wood pieces to cover the holes and hold instruments. Then we started sanding the ugly off and what a chore that was. There were many coats of paint including red and blue. Once that was finished we took the boat off the trailer and turned it on one side so we could patch a couple of gouges with fiberglass filler and paint the bottom. The paint was a bottom paint I purchased from Jamestown Distributors and we decided to paint both the top and bottom with it. Overall we patched probably 30 holes with the fiberglass filler and then sanded everything down smooth. We then primed the boat before painting. We rolled the paint on in small sections but it didn?t smooth out as much as we thought it would. We put two coats of paint on both top and bottom. Still, it looks better than before.

It was interesting that the boat was not built with stainless steel screws. Some were so rusted that we had to cut them off. The aluminum rub rails were a little rough but not horrible and the corner trim pieces in front were missing. I decided to have new transom pieces and the front corner pieces made and then had them and the bow rails all powder-coated to hide the imperfections. The rubber inserts for the rub rails were good overall so I cleaned them with soap and water and dyed them with a black vinyl dye. Inside the boat was another aluminum trim piece and we decided not to remove it but paint it with a matching red Krylon spray paint. The Starcraft emblems were in good condition so we cleaned them and sprayed them with the red Krylon as well.

The floor was sagging in a few places so rather than cut out the fiberglass and start over I elected to use a spray foam expanding sealer sprayed through several holes in the floor. The floor leveled out nicely and the foam will add extra buoyancy if, God forbid, we start to sink. I used five tall cans of foam when all was said and done.
Probably 85 ? 90% of the new parts and gauges came from/through Amazon because they had the best prices. Only equipment they didn?t have came from elsewhere. We used stainless steel screws for everything as well. We cut new dash pieces to fit what had been butchered before and I added a small glove box with a stereo and enclosure mounted above it on the passenger side. The driver?s side holds a speedometer, fuel gauge, switch panel, power point, and horn button. I also installed my Humminbird fish finder as well. To do this we shortened and moved the window support brace from the front of the dash to the top. The window is actually sturdier with this modification. I added new infinity speakers where the old speaker holes had previously been cut out. The floor is now vinyl with carpet up the sides. We built new storage pockets on each side with 1 X 4?s on the bottom and 1 X 6?s for the sides and carpeted them. We mounted the 1 X 6?s to the 1 X 4?s (board to board) with liquid nails and several stainless steel screws. They are better than the originals or, should I say, what was left of the originals.

Last year I purchased another $500 boat; a ?73 Sierra with a ?73 65 HP Mercury long shaft. I had the motor checked out and tuned up and will move it to the Starcraft in a week or two. We?ll have to build a mount for the motor controls once the motor is moved. We also installed a low profile 17 gallon Moeller gas tank above the deck in the back. It will be interesting to see how fuel efficient this motor will be.

My main concern with this boat is the transom. After spending all this time working on the rebuild, we discovered the transom was not in the best of condition. I already had new transom pieces made for additional strength. When we were installing new U-bolt tie downs on the transom we discovered the wood inside was pretty much rotted. Apparently this boat either sat out in the weather without a cover or was partially submerged for some time. I decided to add a steel plate to the outside center of the transom where the motor will mount and a corresponding smaller steel plate inside the transom behind the gas tank for extra strength. Once we get this boat on the lake we will find out if we?re good to go or have to rebuild the transom. My fingers are crossed.

The trailer was replaced as well. I found a nice trailer in Utah that was straight but needed wheels/tires, wiring and lights. I put larger wheels and tires on and rewired the trailer and put new homemade 3 ? foot bunks on the back with Ve-Ve rollers in the center, front, and as guide-ons on each side. Turns out the center rollers are not needed so we?re going to pull those off and lower the bunks in the back for a better fit.
We can see the light at the end of the proverbial tunnel at this point. We need to touch up a few paint nicks as we?ve been working over the winter. We will add side decals and the boat name to the back. When the motor and controls are installed we?ll put the gas tank back in and install the seats. The last order of business will be to have a back curtain made to hide the gas tank and battery, new cushions for the bow seating, and a new Bimini top to replace the torn top that came with the boat.

This rebuild has been an adventure and a real learning experience. I don?t believe I?ll be tackling a project of this magnitude anytime soon. It takes away from time spent fishing, camping, and relaxing on the lake. LOL! Your thoughts and comments are welcome. Happy boating!

LBT :cool:
 

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JC3

Recruit
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
5
Re: Starcraft Rebuild

What a great looking boat. You have outdone yourself. JC
 

barato2

Commander
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Messages
2,956
Re: Starcraft Rebuild

nice! and i like your pragmatic approach to the rotted floor and stringers.
 
Joined
Sep 23, 2010
Messages
1,058
Re: Starcraft Rebuild

"When we were installing new U-bolt tie downs on the transom we discovered the wood inside was pretty much rotted."

Are you saying the transom on the Starcraft TR-150 is rotted--the boat you injected foam under the deck rather than fix the stringers...assuming there were stringers there.
 

LarrDawg

Cadet
Joined
Mar 22, 2013
Messages
8
Re: Starcraft Rebuild

Thanks. I had help from my best friend who has rebuilt four of his own boats. That is always a plus.
 

LarrDawg

Cadet
Joined
Mar 22, 2013
Messages
8
Re: Starcraft Rebuild

"When we were installing new U-bolt tie downs on the transom we discovered the wood inside was pretty much rotted."

Are you saying the transom on the Starcraft TR-150 is rotted--the boat you injected foam under the deck rather than fix the stringers...assuming there were stringers there.


We didn't find out about the transom until three weeks ago. If we had known the wood between the fiberglass was in bad shape ahead of time we would have made the repairs before all the painting/rebuilding started. I have added steel plates to help strengthen the transom and now it will be a wait and see how it works and maybe it won't. The floor had four or five soft spots so rather than tear everything up we elected to use the foam. Perhaps not the best idea but, once again, we'll see how it works. The floor is extremely sturdy at this point, leveled out nicely, and doesn't have soft spots anywhere.

It's obvious you would have done this differently or maybe not at all and that's okay. Everyone has their own ideas about what to do and how to do them. This is my first boat rebuild and I have spent approximately $4000 between the new trailer, boats/motor, paint and parts. What I did with the floor I do not consider to have been cutting corners or costs. It is simply an alternative to a repair on something I did not deem to be a serious issue. The transom could be a problem and I'll have to deal with it if and when the time comes.

With that I say Happy Boating!
 

64osby

Admiral
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
6,826
Re: Starcraft Rebuild

The boat looks great, but based on the description of the "repairs" it sounds like a recipe for disaster, maybe not right now but at sometime in the future.

Foam may support your floor but won't strengthen the hull. Your stringers are supposed to support the hull. They can't do that if they are rotten.

The metal plates may keep the Merc from falling in the water, at least for a while. The transom should be able to support the motor with out metal plates. The transom also provides support to the hull.

The first responsibility of boat ownership is safety. Safety to your family, your friends and to all the other boaters.

Not trying to sound real harsh here, but to me it's the same thing as painting a car to look real nice and you go out driving knowing the frame is rusted, the brakes don't work and the wheel bearings, axles and tires are shot. It's an accident waiting to happen. My .02.
 

CheapboatKev

Vice Admiral
Joined
Oct 4, 2008
Messages
5,813
Re: Starcraft Rebuild

She is a good looking boat...but..
The sandwiched sheet metal wont help enough. The torque of your OB is spread across the entire transom, not just that 6 to 8 inches in the center.
Since a complete transom repair (though probably best) isn't in the cards (from what I read), the least I would do is angle iron some support pieces from the rear gunnels in the splash well to through bolt into that plate.
It would be unsightly I am sure but either that or a whole transom repair..
 

North Beach

Commander
Joined
Sep 29, 2008
Messages
2,022
Re: Starcraft Rebuild

Well if you're interested I checked the 69, 70, and 71 brochures I have here and I'd have to call this one a 70 based on the walk thru windshield and the raised area on the stern. Here's the brochure pic....

1970 TR150.jpg

The TR evidently stands for Trident. I guess that's a play on the tri-hull. Cool lookin little boat! Good luck with the transom.
 
Joined
Sep 23, 2010
Messages
1,058
Re: Starcraft Rebuild

"Everyone has their own ideas about what to do and how to do them."

Everything here is said out of compassion and a willingness to assist others. No one is here to bash anyone or their methods. That said, everyone may have there own ideas, but in this world there is a right way and a wrong way. The wrong way will get you hurt or worse, killed. All we are saying is, be careful and listen the advice of the elders.

"What I did with the floor I do not consider to have been cutting corners or costs. It is simply an alternative to a repair on something I did not deem to be a serious issue."

The truth is that your method was cutting corners and as stated about in the other comments, dangerous. All anyone wants to see here is a safe trip. I loved the automobile analogy.

I know how you feel. My first rebuild (still in progress) turned out to be way more expensive that I had intended. Thankfully the wifey is an understanding one and tolerates my stupidity for getting into something like I did. Fortunately, this forum taught me the correct way to restore a boat and I am grateful for the advice. The last thing I want is to sink a few grand into something and find myself (or family) swimming back to shore. And where I fish, that would not be a good thing.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Starcraft Rebuild

As you can see in this picture of an aluminum hull with the interior ripped out http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2252.jpg you've got aluminum ribs and stringers providing structural support to the hull. The floor is not a structural component there. A deck replacement on a tinnie could consist of a piece of OSB plywood just tossed on top. Sure it wouldn't last long but it would still be a safe boat. On a fiberglass boat, the stringers provide the longitudinal support and the deck, which is tabbed to the hull with fiberglass, provides the lateral support. In order to have a safe boat, these components need to be solid and properly fiberglassed. There really isn't a way to skimp on this and still have a safe boat. Do I think your hull is going to crack from hitting a rogue wave? Not necessarily but if your stringers are mush, the possibility is there. As far as the transom goes, that situation is pretty similar between fiberglass and aluminum boats. Only difference is the wood is typically fiberglassed into place on a fiberglass boat. One both, that plywood is what provides the strength by spreading the load across a much greater area. If it's mush inside....then obviously this http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg618/jbcurt00/other people boats or pix info/attachment.jpg is worst case scneario. Also, compression can occur causing the lower part of the motor mount to dig into the hull and at minimum, fasteners can loosen up and leak. I used my first boat for 2 seasons with a mush transom because I didn't know any better and also the previous owner had reinforced the whole thing with a super beefy piece of angle iron that spanned the entire width. Nothing structural happened but it did leak badly around all the through-hull fasteners.

I wasn't going to comment on this thread because I didn't want to be a downer and you have done a great job cosmetically on that boat, but I felt I should try to explain where we're coming from in our criticisms.
 
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