Starter for 1983 Johnson 150hp

[aloha43]

Hello,

The starter went out on our motor on our first trial run on the lake. We were told by a repairman when he checked out the motor, that the starter would go soon. (Who would have thought it would go the first time out.) We manually started it...it was really easy (on the first try). The motor runs great!

My question is, can anyone tell me if it is simple for a non-mechanic to replace the starter? We would like to do it ourselves if it is easy, or we will have to tow it 2 hours away to have it worked on.

If it isn't hard, does anyone have an idea of where to get it, and step by step instructions on how to replace it? If it is hard, we won't attempt it. :redface:

Thanks a bunch!

Debbie

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: Starter for 1983 Johnson 150hp

A 10 minute job! Unhook the battery,Take the power cable off the starter then remove the 2 bolts that holds the starter on.Its really easy...
Ebasicpower on the web have good prices on new starters.Much cheaper than dealer cost..

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: Starter for 1983 Johnson 150hp

I'll send you a PM with the part number and link...

 

[JB]

Re: Starter for 1983 Johnson 150hp

Before you replace the starter go to Engine FAQs and do the starter circuit troubleshooting in "Outboard won't start".

About 60% of starters replaced didn't need replacing. Real trouble was simple resistance in the high current circuit or solenoid.

If it really is the starter, before you buy a new one get a quote from an auto starter rebuilder. Could save you many bux.

Good luck.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: Starter for 1983 Johnson 150hp

It is also not unusual for the brushes to go bad. They are sold separately and can be easily changed. If the com is scratched or gouged, it will need rebuilding.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Starter for 1983 Johnson 150hp

ALoha, take the advice given above, very rare that you need a whole new starter. First, try turning the starter a 1/4 turn, if it now fires, likely that the brushes are gone as stated by emd. If it does need to be rebuilt, will be much cheaper than buying new. Check all wiring and connections first, make them SHINE, both battery and solenoid/starter connections Any buldges in the wiring is a sign of internal corrosion. Make sure the battery is fully charged, at 12.65 volts, and have it load tested, most auto stores will do this for free. Disconnect and inspect the large harness plug in the engine compartment. Clean it as best you can, spraying electrical contact cleaner in in, and re sealing it with grease, and reconnect. Now use the ignition switch to try and start the engine. If it works every time the connector was the culprit. If not, you now need a voltmeter.

Measure the voltage at the starter (+) terminal while somebody turns the key over to "start" - if you get within half a volt or so of the battery voltage, the starter is faulty.

Bad voltage at starter (with clean tight connections), measure the voltage at the solenoid small terminal with the yellow/red wire with the key turned over to "start" you should read within a half-volt of battery voltage, otherwise you have a wiring fault beween the keyswitch & solenoid. Good voltage at solenoid but bad voltage at starter means faulty solenoid.