starter issue or switch - 1997 Ocean pro 200

[dingbat]

Went out to start the boat a couple of days ago. On the third or fourth attempt, the starter RPM was suddenly a lot higher. On the next try, back to normal. A couple of tries later, high RPM, then back to normal on the next.

FWIW: Starter rpm is pretty constant when use "one" or "both" Grp. 27 batteries.

On top of that, crank, crank, crank, didn't sound like it was firing. No cough, No sputter. Nothing. Then a couple of turns of the key later, bang, it would light right up again. Then two or three more tries with no fire, then bang, kick right off again. Seemed to be all or nothing until it finally caught and idled normally

Once warm, it will start with the turn of the key all day long. I'm thinking a worn or dirty contact in the ignition switch may be to blame for the ignition / fire issue, but the jump in RPM has me scratching my head. Cables on battery and starter are clean and tight.

 

[interalian]

Sounds like a solenoid problem. Sometimes it 'makes' with a good connection and spins the starter fast, other times it 'makes' with a poor connection and cranks slower.

 

[jakedaawg]

^ this with conditions.

Are battery cables corrosion free and in good condition? Isolate and ohm them.

Are terminal ends clean and tight at battery and motor? Wing nuts don't count.

Starters are simple to pull apart and inspect brushes and comutator. Do so.

 

[dingbat]

http://www.arcomarine.com/xhtml/Tech Solenoid Circuts & Testing.pdf

 

[interalian]

Resistance should be same as just touching your meter leads together.

A more revealing test is voltage drop across the cable and connections whilst under load. Connect one end of your meter lead to the (-) terminal on the battery and a good motor ground. It shouldn't read more than 100mV while you're cranking. Repeat test between battery (+) and the main solenoid (+) terminal looking for the same result. Final test would be between the two large terminals on the solenoid - this one can be a bit higher, but I'd scrap it if it was more than 250mV or so. If you're using an auto-ranging DMM, change it to manual to capture the voltage reading quicker - set it to a 1V scale.

Also, look for any spots on the cable or connections that might get warm after a few cranking attempts. This is an indicator of resistance in the connection or cable.

 

[dingbat]

In followup....troubleshooting of the starting circuitry turned up nothing obvious. Replaced the starter solenoid for the heck of it with improvement in the stability of cranking RPM.

Fished a tournament over the weekend w/o a problem. Went to flush the motor when we got back and "click". The starter is not ceased but feels rough.

 

[racerone]

Post #3 says that starters are easy to inspect / repair.-------I agree with that !!

 

[Fed]

It could be your bendix clutch slipping, mine does it for the first 1 or 2 revolutions of the engine.

What you're seeing and or hearing is engine revolutions not starter motor revolutions.

To try and explain more, mine goes

Crank...crank...crank...crankcrankcrankcrank all from 1 turn of the key.

You may have to try & observe the speed of the starter cog Vs the speed of the nut above it, perhaps take a video of it then slow it down somehow.

I should add I found my problem after a thorough testing of the 12 Volt supply to the starter and a complete strip & rebuild of the starter motor.

 

[dingbat]

I took it to work to have a look inside during my lunch break.

The housing was full of carbon dust but everything appeared in reasonable shape. I was in the process of blowing everything out for a closer look when the electrical engineer walked by and pointed out a number of discolored (dark amber colored) windings on the armature.

So much for rebuilding. New starter on order...

 

[dingbat]

Installation of a new starter solved the cranking issue. Digging into the ignition system next