MC Cool Breeze
Cadet
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2011
- Messages
- 7
I will apologize in advance for the following forum Fauxpas:
1: I do not have pictures (yet). Have camera with us but did not bring cable to download to computer. I will remedy that later when I get back downstate.
2: I sent a private message before doing proper research (thanks to Bob_VT for answering and cluing me away from PT plywood). Problem is I am trying to do a quick fix with limited vacation time as I keep the boat in Northern Michigan and can only work on it while here. I guess I thought it seemed easier than what I've discovered. Trying to balance "fix-it time" with family time and did not want to lose a whole summer of boating.
Have now spent numerous hours over last week researching these forums, thanks to all for the wealth of information out there. It is almost overwhelming. Maybe I am not using the search engine correctly to find these answers quickly.
I keep my 1984 22' Islander (best $50.00 I ever spent, but that's another story) on trailer, put it in Burt Lake 6-10 weekends and a week or two per summer. Have owned the boat since 1996. Floor of cuddy became rotten due to standing water underneath not draining to engine compartment. Shame on me for not providing proper pitch angle while parked. 2x4 stringer under cuddy floor became rotten. (actually the stringer looks like it was possibly a 2x6 under the gas tank, and trimmed down to ACTUAL 2x4 from tank to bow. Not true purchased 2x4 dimensions but true 4" width). Proper fix would be to yank the tank and replace the stringer full length, but I'm pressed for time and budget. Stringer near front of tank looked solid enough and is foamed-in close to the tank so that I thought I'd cut it a foot out and sandwich it between two sister 2x4's linking it to new one going up to bow. Plan to use Liquid Nails and four 3/8-16 stainless through-bolts with large washers and nylok nuts to link them all securely. Will use wood hardener on exposed 1 ft section of old stringer to minimize future rot. Was planning on using PT 2x4 until Bob educated me. Now I plan on coating normal 2x4 with West System Resin.
Question #1: Do I need to also glass this board or is Resin enough?
Question #2: Since old board was true 4", there is a 1/4 stack up loss. Is it better to shim the 2x4 or just switch to 3/4 board? Latter seems to make sense.
Since I've destroyed one deck, a major concern I have is with drainage system. I will remember to jack the dolly wheel all the way up, but this only pitches it so far, and some water remains near the front of tank. Mooring cover keep most rain out while parked. There is a 3" hose foamed-in beside the stringer that I know connects well under the tank and to the drain into engine compartment. Tested this by using a hose, and got no back wash, 100% went into bilge. The original damaged hose extended forward about 6" from under the tank, but just laid in hull, or may have been riveted to a cross strut at one time. Now it is broken off right flush with the tank front. My original thinking was that this hose should have been connected to the deck drain on cuddy floor entrance. This would allow 100% of deck drainage to go into hose and straight back to bilge. Now thinking that if I connect this up to floor, there would be no way for any water to drain from forward under-deck compartment (If any got in from leaks in hull).
Question #3: What is proper way to hook up this drainage system, leave it lay in hull or connect to deck (or other)? Want it right if it will be beneath the new floor.
Also plan on redoing the main deck. Have already rebuilt the rear seat bases and front seat boxes. Seems like Starcraft just used 1/2 untreated ply, glued and stapled vinyl carpet. This has lasted since 1984, but I think I should use something a little more waterproof. Intent is to keep the boat up to five more years, but I want to keep the next owner in mind as well as resale value.
Since PT ply is out of the question, I tried to find marine grade ply. To my surprise, no one in Northern Michigan carries it in stock, so obviously fixing this quickly in a week is out. I will obviously have to order some downstate (Pontoons.com, etc if I cannot get from locals).
Question #4: If I use marine grade ply, do I need to coat with West System? Would epoxy only be good enough or do I use the cloth too? (I used to do fiberglass auto body repair, and would love to avoid cloth if not necessary) Would epoxy on normal no-void exterior grade ply be adequate?
Question #5: Do I switch to 3/4 from stock 1/2? Boat is underpowered with the 120 HP OMC outdrive as it is. Wondering how much weight is added and what that will do to speed.
Question #6 (and final for this posting): I have read about using Gluvit on the inside of rivets. Seems cheap insurance to do this while deck is out. Is there a thread out there someone can point me to to show how to do this?
Thanks in advance to any and all responders.
MC Cool Breeze
1: I do not have pictures (yet). Have camera with us but did not bring cable to download to computer. I will remedy that later when I get back downstate.
2: I sent a private message before doing proper research (thanks to Bob_VT for answering and cluing me away from PT plywood). Problem is I am trying to do a quick fix with limited vacation time as I keep the boat in Northern Michigan and can only work on it while here. I guess I thought it seemed easier than what I've discovered. Trying to balance "fix-it time" with family time and did not want to lose a whole summer of boating.
Have now spent numerous hours over last week researching these forums, thanks to all for the wealth of information out there. It is almost overwhelming. Maybe I am not using the search engine correctly to find these answers quickly.
I keep my 1984 22' Islander (best $50.00 I ever spent, but that's another story) on trailer, put it in Burt Lake 6-10 weekends and a week or two per summer. Have owned the boat since 1996. Floor of cuddy became rotten due to standing water underneath not draining to engine compartment. Shame on me for not providing proper pitch angle while parked. 2x4 stringer under cuddy floor became rotten. (actually the stringer looks like it was possibly a 2x6 under the gas tank, and trimmed down to ACTUAL 2x4 from tank to bow. Not true purchased 2x4 dimensions but true 4" width). Proper fix would be to yank the tank and replace the stringer full length, but I'm pressed for time and budget. Stringer near front of tank looked solid enough and is foamed-in close to the tank so that I thought I'd cut it a foot out and sandwich it between two sister 2x4's linking it to new one going up to bow. Plan to use Liquid Nails and four 3/8-16 stainless through-bolts with large washers and nylok nuts to link them all securely. Will use wood hardener on exposed 1 ft section of old stringer to minimize future rot. Was planning on using PT 2x4 until Bob educated me. Now I plan on coating normal 2x4 with West System Resin.
Question #1: Do I need to also glass this board or is Resin enough?
Question #2: Since old board was true 4", there is a 1/4 stack up loss. Is it better to shim the 2x4 or just switch to 3/4 board? Latter seems to make sense.
Since I've destroyed one deck, a major concern I have is with drainage system. I will remember to jack the dolly wheel all the way up, but this only pitches it so far, and some water remains near the front of tank. Mooring cover keep most rain out while parked. There is a 3" hose foamed-in beside the stringer that I know connects well under the tank and to the drain into engine compartment. Tested this by using a hose, and got no back wash, 100% went into bilge. The original damaged hose extended forward about 6" from under the tank, but just laid in hull, or may have been riveted to a cross strut at one time. Now it is broken off right flush with the tank front. My original thinking was that this hose should have been connected to the deck drain on cuddy floor entrance. This would allow 100% of deck drainage to go into hose and straight back to bilge. Now thinking that if I connect this up to floor, there would be no way for any water to drain from forward under-deck compartment (If any got in from leaks in hull).
Question #3: What is proper way to hook up this drainage system, leave it lay in hull or connect to deck (or other)? Want it right if it will be beneath the new floor.
Also plan on redoing the main deck. Have already rebuilt the rear seat bases and front seat boxes. Seems like Starcraft just used 1/2 untreated ply, glued and stapled vinyl carpet. This has lasted since 1984, but I think I should use something a little more waterproof. Intent is to keep the boat up to five more years, but I want to keep the next owner in mind as well as resale value.
Since PT ply is out of the question, I tried to find marine grade ply. To my surprise, no one in Northern Michigan carries it in stock, so obviously fixing this quickly in a week is out. I will obviously have to order some downstate (Pontoons.com, etc if I cannot get from locals).
Question #4: If I use marine grade ply, do I need to coat with West System? Would epoxy only be good enough or do I use the cloth too? (I used to do fiberglass auto body repair, and would love to avoid cloth if not necessary) Would epoxy on normal no-void exterior grade ply be adequate?
Question #5: Do I switch to 3/4 from stock 1/2? Boat is underpowered with the 120 HP OMC outdrive as it is. Wondering how much weight is added and what that will do to speed.
Question #6 (and final for this posting): I have read about using Gluvit on the inside of rivets. Seems cheap insurance to do this while deck is out. Is there a thread out there someone can point me to to show how to do this?
Thanks in advance to any and all responders.
MC Cool Breeze
