Starting issue "possbily" solved

[WhiteRice]

Good point. I will double check that but Im pretty sure they are synced since all three choke plates have divits in the connector pins

 

[Crosbyman]

Your question may still stand but are you not able to give any insight into "find the problem" beyond what I have done already? If not, I feel it is rather presumptuous to state that I am simply working around a problem when in fact I am actually narrowing by applied effort.

Please don't be offended by my questionning of the process I am simply saying that if your engine is not performing like all others then the cure is finding why yours is having this unique issue. I am no engine designer just a hobbyist who started to work on oldies 10-15 years or so ago and boating since 15 years old not 50-65 like experts mechanics on here. I try to have an analytical approach to problem solving which I have used for 40 years in the Telco industry. In the process I try not not to eat crow to much and I have...

. Your initial posts relates to possible unresolved or suspected clogging issues. That may still be the problem area if other areas are all OK .

I hope your engine problem can be solved effectively and as cheaply as possible​

 

[oldboat1]

Crow isn't too bad, if prepped well.

On the choke flappers -- often an assumption that they are closed based on operation of the linkage (or click of the solenoid). I've found that you have to reach in and touch to make sure they are tightly closing when they are supposed to.

 

[Crosbyman]

crow.... :hungry: never eaten crow but in my younger years (teens) I have captured two , feed and raised them ...

all summer
​

those birds followed me around like trained puppies and scrared my neighbors doing dive bombings. a whistle on the porch in the morning would bring them flying in for breakfast. Two rogue thieves who would steal small shiny things ..anything like nickels, dimes etc... we had to make certain nobody took off a ring for fear of theft .

Then one day, they realized they were crows. I had lost my breakfast friends

:focus:

 

[WhiteRice]

Crosbyman, thanks for the clarification. I understand where you are coming and I can appreciate the scientific method when it comes to motors.


Oldboat, I will double check the flappers. Is there a sign of something more going on if my motor prefers to start with the choke open vs. closed?

 

[oldboat1]

Good story, Crosbyman. Smart birds, crows. (My crow dining has been pretty regular, but always metaphorical.)


On choke flappers, or cold starting generally -- Understood you to be saying your are having starting difficulties, WhiteRice, and use of the manual choke not always effective. If your motor has them, physically checking the choke flappers is easy, and can sometimes resolve problems. In your starting procedure, you may find that full choke will get it to fire up, then half choke until it warms up.

You might readjust the needle valves to change the air/fuel mix. I'm not sure what the initial setting is on that motor, but might be as much as 5 turns open.

Happy New Year to you! Good boating!

 

[WhiteRice]

Install of Plunger Primer on '97 Evinrude 25HP 3Cyl

I was curious if anyone has installed an aftermarket Plunger Fuel Primer (pic attached) to their small outboards. If any of you have been following my previous thread, I have found that I do have some cold starting issues with my motor and that a small direct injection of fuel prior to start seems to help about 95% of the time. I found several videos on YouTube of people installing these on Jetskis and Snow Mobiles but none on an outboard. It can be done (and has been done from what I've been told) but I am uncertain as to the install point on the manifold. I have attached a pic of my manifold and the Primer kit comes with a 1/4" x 1/8" x 1/8" T-fitting. The fittings on my manifold that are circled in yellow and blue are 1/8" and the red circle is a Schrader valve. The bottom (blue) fitting is connected to my recirculation lines that go back behind the powerpack so I'm pretty sure that narrows it down the the top fitting or the Schrader valve. Any insight or ideas would be great. I'm hoping I don't need to tap into the manifold but wanted to see if anyone here has completed this install. Thanks in advance!

 

[GA_Boater]

For all the threads and posts on this issue, I don't think an important question has been asked of you. I don't think you need a manual primer.

What is your starting procedure?

Also moved this back into your other thread since you hate to start new threads.

 

[WhiteRice]

Cold start procedure is prime bulb, turn on ignition, put high speed idle to 3/4 full, 1/2 choke and pull away. I have tried full choke as mentioned in other threads but it would not turn over on most occasions. Carbs have been cleaned and rebuilt and all fuel lines from tank to carbs are less than 3 months old and the tank vents properly. There have been several posts I have read about Johnson, Evinrude and even some Mercury 2 strokes that are real pains with cold starts and some install an OEM electric primer or a manual primer and this seems to help tremendously. I landed on installing a manual primer after I landed on the 1st post of this thread.

 

[GA_Boater]

Squeeze bulb until it's hard?

Cold start needs full choke.

 

[WhiteRice]

Squeeze bulb until it's hard?

Cold start needs full choke.

Yes. Primer bulb is squeezed until its hard.

If this thing will not cold start with full choke but will (at most times) at half-choke, is there something else going on related to the carbs that a manual primer will not help me resolve? I have good flow through all ports / needles on all three. Bowls are not flooding and idle screws are set to book specs for my elevation.

 

[oldboat1]

... put high speed idle to 3/4 full, 1/2 choke and pull away.

I take it you mean setting the throttle to the start position (i.e., throttle at high idle). With the motor in neutral, would set the throttle to full stop. (Then would typically use full choke on a manual system, two or three pulls, then pull off the choke if it hasn't started, and pull again.)

 

[WhiteRice]

Not my pic but this control box is almost identical to mine (minus the key start). So you are saying to have the high idle all the way down, full choke, pull 2-3 times and if it doesn't start pull the choke open and pull again?

That's what I was doing at first and I was not having any luck. It will start that way just fine once it's warm.

 

[oldboat1]

high idle (throttle) all the way UP to start. Throttle typically has to be advanced initially. If continued problems, you might consider unhooking the throttle cable at the engine, and advance the throttle manually at the engine -- see if you get improvement.

 

[WhiteRice]

Ok. Gotcha. I read in the "Sticky" about the cold start procedure but I will try the full advance in a few days when it gets a little warmer.


As a fall back to the original, 2nd topic (lol): If this does not resolve it to a point that makes me feel comfortable with it consistently starting, do you see adding a manual primer to be helpful? I have tried cold starting it three time now with a small shot of carb cleaner and it fired right up every time I did this.

 

[oldboat1]

Yeah, I don't see why you would need a primer (MO). If compression is good, carbs cleaned and adjusted/working properly, strong (measured) spark, you should be good to go.


That air/fuel mix might need to be set a little richer for your location -- some experimentation probably needed.

 

[WhiteRice]

Thanks Oldboat.

 

[oldboat1]

You're welcome. Hope you get it handled.

 

[WhiteRice]

Well, I double checked that all three carb choke plates and butterflies were synced up. Everything opening and closing together. Tried the procedure of full high idle and full choke at start and this did not start until about 8 pulls but it started. Fast forward 1 day and I ordered the manual primer since it was fairly cheap and the shop I go to said it wouldnt hurt anything to i stall one as long as it does not allow fuel flow after start up (it does not). Installed it, primed bulb hard, full ckoke, full high idle and one pull later.... starts up just fine. Tried starting it with no high idle.... starts right up first pull after letting it sit for a few hours. Hopefully this resolves it. Now I just have to find a place to install the prime valve so I can access it with the cowling on.

Thanks for all the help guys!