Stator and Trigger test on 86' 35 hp Merc?

aMeyers11

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 4, 2019
Messages
113
Hi everyone, I'm trying to test the stator and trigger using a multimeter. Via a manual and online resources I've found that the specs are:

STATOR:
Black yellow(LS) to ground=3200-3800 ohms
Black white(HS) to ground=225-300 ohm

TRIGGER:
Brown yellow to brown white=750-1400 ohms

Problem is, there are many of these colored wires and it has me very, very confused. Im not sure which black and yellow wire to test between ground and I'm not sure how to disconnect the white and black wire from the switch box for testing? All black and yellow connections get nothing except for the very top right connection is about 0-10 ohms between ground. What would be a good ground point? I havent tested the black and white wire becuase I'm not sure how to disconnect it. As far as the trigger goes I'm unsure of which brown yellow and brown white pair to test between, becuase there are 2 of each color wire on the right side of the box. I'm sorry if this is all confusing or stupid questions, any help would be very appreciated. I will post pics below. Thanks
20190520_214743.jpg20190520_214145.jpg20190520_214748.jpg
 

aMeyers11

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 4, 2019
Messages
113
Here is a wiring diagram, but it doesnt seem to line up with what I have completely though
20190404_154727_1556563573037.jpg
 

aMeyers11

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 4, 2019
Messages
113
Does anyone know if there is a trick to disconnecting wires at the switch box? I've got 2 of them apart but the rest just wont budge? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
 

SteveVT

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 31, 2017
Messages
163
Here -- hope this photo clarifies the following:

Trace the wire bundles from the rotor and trigger to the switch box.

Lift the necessary wires off of the box and separate them at the connectors there.
\
Then test the trigger side of those wires and the rotor side of those wires.

Use a bolt that goes into the crankcase as your ground.

Click image for larger version  Name:	image_312894-text.jpg Views:	1 Size:	250.4 KB ID:	10743048 If you get zero ohms on any reading, either the wiring, connector, or the part itself is open (bad). You will have test further to figure out which. Those connectors look green from corrosion -- which is why they are hard to separate, and possibly aren't connecting (if you are getting a zero reading). Hope that helps.
 

aMeyers11

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 4, 2019
Messages
113
That helps a ton, thank you so much! I'm always amazed how helpful everyone is, I really appreciate it!
 

SteveVT

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 31, 2017
Messages
163
Ooops.... I was typing too fast. STATOR, not "rotor" --- but seems you understood anyway!
 

aMeyers11

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 4, 2019
Messages
113
Yeah that helps a ton, for some reason I wasnt thinking straight and I didnt realize there is actually 2 stators: the stator for ignition and then the charging stator that connects to the rectifier. Thanks again!
 

aMeyers11

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 4, 2019
Messages
113
Alright so I tested both the leads on the ignition stator and i got no resistance reading from either to ground. I removed the stator and noticed that the bolts holding it in had some oxidation. Is it possible that it wasnt grounding to the powerhead due to this? Is there a way to test it with it off the power head to double check it's no good? Thanks
 
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