Stator question

[F_R]

Re: Stator question

Daselbee, just to make sure I'm not overly coo-coo, I checked the wiring diagram. There is no 12V connection to the power packs. The only connection between the key switch and power packs is the black/yellow striped kill wire. Applying 12 volts to that kill wire will destroy the power packs. The power packs are powered by the brown and brown/yellow wires coming from the stator.

firejunky, you have added information saying one of the coils is burnt. With that info, maybe your stator is bad. Whatever, the relationship between the battery, trim switch, and ignition cutting out is a mystery to me. Like I said, I don't know what is wrong with your motor.

 

[daselbee]

Re: Stator question

Daselbee, just to make sure I'm not overly coo-coo, I checked the wiring diagram. There is no 12V connection to the power packs. The only connection between the key switch and power packs is the black/yellow striped kill wire. Applying 12 volts to that kill wire will destroy the power packs. The power packs are powered by the brown and brown/yellow wires coming from the stator.

Thanks FR. That's what I wanted to know for sure.

 

[firejunky]

Re: Stator question

Well i took it back to to mechanic today ( my wife insisted ) I talked to the Manager and he said this one is on them.

F R The middle coil on the left side appears to have gotten hot at some point. I don't know how to tell if it's bad or not. I showed it to the mechanic.

Hopefully they can figure this out before too long, I've got fish to catch.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: Stator question

You can visually determine what size stator and rectifier regulator your engine has by looking at the flywheel. Yours is a vented flywheel, so you have the 35 amp system. Your stator system makes all the power to run the engine. The stator is divided into two systems, the ignition system and the charging system. Your mechanic should be able to test ignition side of the stator output-on that engine. A special peak-reading voltmeter should show at least 150 volts output at cranking speeds. If it is less, it won't fire the packs/coils properly. There is also a charging side test-involving an ammeter. Yours should output 35 amps when running at or above 2000 rpm to the rectifier/regulator. As you know by now, ignition components are all expensive, so the proper test of them will potentially same you some big $. A defective rectifier/regulator will not recharge the battery properly, causing a low volt situation when the trim switch is activated. These 35 amp systems have other issues you will want to check for: The magnets under the flywheel are glued on and have a tendency to fall off, esp if the rectifier/regulator ever catches on fire-not uncommon on that engine. While extremely rare, the magnets can loose magnetism, causing low ignition voltage output problems. Bombardier sells a flywheel magnet replacement kit, complete with new expoxy. Check the timing of the engine when at 4100 rpm under load. If the timing appears off, the timing magnet ring may have shifted on the center hub of the flywheel. This circular ring with the timing marks is pressed onto the hub in a very specific orientation. If this timing hub it moves, you need a new flywheel. While the 6 coils that drive each spark plug rarely fail, they can. A timing light on each plugwire at 4100-5000 rpm (under load) will show you what cylinders are firing and which are not. Check the flywheel key to make sure it is intact.

 

[daselbee]

Re: Stator question

Είναι όλα τα ελληνικά σε με?

 

[Wishiniwuzfishin]

Re: Stator question

Είναι όλα τα ελληνικά σε με?
Now that, I understand.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Stator question

Είναι όλα τα ελληνικά σε με?

Let me guess "It's all Greek to me" ???

 

[firejunky]

Re: Stator question

Είναι όλα τα ελληνικά σε με?

Good one.

 

[clanton]

Re: Stator question

You have this thing running yet?

There is an easy way to check this system, you need a peak reading meter. You check all output voltages outlined in service manual. engine should be at operating temps, fully charged battery, clean and tight termials.

 

[firejunky]

Re: Stator question

It runs good until it hits 4100 rpms.

 

[firejunky]

Re: Stator question

My boat Mechanic called me this morning. He said he found a wire on the back of the starboard power pack that was bare and grounding the pack. He said that this may have caused the timer base and the other power pack ( the one we already replaced ) to go out.
What do you guys think? Is this possible?

 

[clanton]

Re: Stator question

The bare wire may be the problem. But sounds like to me he is still guessing.
What are the output voltages at cranking rpm, sparkplugs in?

Stator output to pack
Pack output to coil


Stator has high failer rate this engine.

 

[firejunky]

Re: Stator question

I asked him about the stator he said he tested it. We didn't go into detail. He said both circuits tested good.

 

[clanton]

Re: Stator question

If all of the basic test pass, the next step is in water or dyno tests. Connect the peakreading meter to ignition coil input/primary wire. Then full throttle bringing boat up on plane and running until misfires accurs. You can see the voltage drop on the meter. You have to check all 6 coils cylinders. Once you find the misfiring cylinder, then you have to check the stator output, and timer output for that cylinder. Stator has 2 charge coils for ignition 1 for port side, one for starboard side. Charge coil will effect 1 cylinder sometimes if the voltage is low. Look at stator charge coils under flywheel for dripping apoxy or burnt wires.

The misfire when you use the tilt and trim indicates bad stator, see OMC service bulletin, don`t have bulletin number handy.

Powerpacks that have a bad diode will make the other pack misfire.

 

[firejunky]

Re: Stator question

Well the mechanic replaced the pack with the bare wire. I couldn't see the bare spot, so I figured it was a waste of time and money to change out the part. It was, there was no difference. As soon as the motor hit 4100 it started cutting out.
I'm still convinced the stator is the problem. The mechanic doesn't think so. I found out he is not even. Running the engine. He is just bench testing everything. Shouldn't he have at least run it on the dyno, he has one I saw it.

 

[clanton]

Re: Stator question

you have a multimeter?

 

[firejunky]

Re: Stator question

Yes, A Fluke

 

[firejunky]

Re: Stator question

Can this be tested on muffs, or does it need to be in the lake?

 

[clanton]

Re: Stator question

First test. Engine at idle on muffs. Set fluke 300/400 AC scale(do not use auto ranging). Connect black meter lead to engine ground, red lead to primary side of ignition coil. Check all 6 cylinders. Voltage readings should be same all 6 cylinders. Voltage all same, go to second test.

Second test. Increase engine rpms to 2000rpms, check all 6 cylinders. Voltage must be the same. You should be able to do this on the muffs. Voltage the same, Third test.


Third test. Full throttle, in gear, boat in water or dyno. Need long meter leads. May need extry person to run boat.

Every time you run this test, the voltage must be same for all cylinders.

OR locate the brown wires from stator to power pack. Meter scale 300/400 AC (do not use auto ranging) Check at different rpms voltage should be same at both packs.

And check the ohms between the 2 brown wires from stator to pack, should be 970 ohms -+ 50 check both sides.

Post readings

 

[firejunky]

Re: Stator question

Thanks for the help. It may be a few days before i can do the test, i have a 5 week old girl and a three year old boy, and mom is sick. any way, i think i will go back to the mechanic and let him take that new power pack back. I have spent way too much money for nothing.