Steel plug in brass garboard flange???

USA_boater

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Is it okay if the replacement plugs that were available were steel?

ALSO, if replacing the entire garboard flange and plug, is steel, chrome-plated or brass better?
 

Maclin

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They are pipe plug threads, I would not want to use any plug material other than what the flange is. Go Brass, wait for the right one ;)
 

Scott Danforth

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go to your local ace hardware or lowes or home depot

buy a brass pipe plug

go boating

steel will rust in place, so would chrome plated anything
stainless will corrode from galvanic corrosion and become stuck
brass is the proper material.
 

Chris1956

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Actually, Marine Garboard fittings are (or should be) Silicon Bronze. Bronze is much stronger than brass, which is why the brass age was short lived, and the Bronze age went on until iron was smelted.
 

Maclin

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Once you have the old flange out, before you install the new one, be sure to check the sealing of the hole thru the transom, and the condition of the exposed surface of the drain hole thru the transom. If it appears that it is not sealed well (hopefully not soft!), wait for it to dry out then apply something to prevent water intrusion from water sitting in the bilge. I apologize for the vagueness on what to use, I am not a coatings guy.
 
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USA_boater

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well isn't the same sealant I'd use for the new flange sufficient to coat the entire hole? I bought the 3M 5200
 

Maclin

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I would not use 5200, more like an epoxy, thin coating if you think it needs to be sealed.
 

USA_boater

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okay i must be imagining this different than it actually is. I thought taking out garboard flange only required one sealant to prevent leaks and it was 3M 5200 from what other posts online suggest. Are you saying there is a SECOND place that might need sealing when the garboard flange is replaced and that other place that needs to be check/sealed is different than the main place the garboard needs to be sealed with the 5200?
 

Maclin

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Obviously there is a hole all the way thru the transom from the manufacturing process. The transom core was exposed after the hole was drilled or otherwise created. If the original manufacturer's application of sealer after the transom core was exposed is compromised years later, then now (after you remove the bilge drain hardware) would be the time to look it over and rectify. It may be fine. Sorry for any confusion, just ignore and carry on.
 

USA_boater

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makes sense now...one more thing to worry about...I suppose you'd seal that, let it dry THEN install the new garboard flange after the transom core was re-sealed...I just hope I can remove flange, seal new flang with 5200 as most people and not have any issue with the transom core sealant.
 

USA_boater

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bought boat with stuck plug, previous owner never removed it since it had a sump pump and it was also stored indoors. The plug is stuck in the flange and I've tried a lot to get it out...I even tried some heat and I think I might have affected the sealant because there is a yellowish stain around the garboard now. however, IT IS NOT taking on any water but after using heat I decided AND the fact I can't get the plug out, I decided it might be best to just replace the whole thing. I am am going to try to remove the plug again and it it does come out, then I may not replace the entire flange since despite my stupidity of heating it up, it isn't leaking and a new plug alone should be all I'd need. BUT if that doesn't work, then you now know why I am thinking I must replace the whole thing.
 

JASinIL2006

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I’d replace the entire thing, too. Not a big job at all, and it will allow easy removal of the plug. Plus, you can make sure ithe flange is properly sealed. Go for it!
 

Scott Danforth

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5200 is fine to seal the hole. put on a latex glove, smear around the hole, come back a few hours later, repeat, then bed in the new garboard flange
 
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