Sticking solinoid?

[MiJust]

Basically , starter selenoid are just electro magnets to close a high amperage contact between in and out B+12v to feed the starter .

A) the internal winding must be energized to close the contacts
b) Internal contact surfaces must be clean and smooth to carry high amperage and release

based on your description of having to TAP the selenoid that was keeping the starter going after having your wife removed the the key it sure looks like the contacts are sticking shut .
Conversly a no start result from dirty contact points. Dirty eventually leads to sticky .
If.. you can open the selenoid and reach the main contacts you could try to polish them up as a test but the issue will likely return.

Bench testing unless done at the same amperage rate of the starter may be inconclusive. Think of a welder's welding rod sticking on the surface of a weld spot ! Simple clicking does not test the load and release characteristics of the contacts

an intermittent (open) ground would not cause the selenoid to HOLD it would prevent the magnet pulling the contacts shut.

what would hold up the relay is a permanent +12v on the START control wire.... which is unlikely because tapping the selenoid cleared the problem.

Marine selenoids are different from automotive ones make certain you have the correct replacement.

one reason for burning up relay contacts and causing sticky contacts is a high amperage load needed (or fed) to the starter itself . If you have a clamp-on meter try to measure that amperage while the starter runs .

has requested indicate your engine mdl /yr because different circuitries exist

1976, model 70673

 

[racerone]

I give up.----Wires and 12 volts are simple to me , but difficult to explain I think.

 

[Crosbyman]

disconnect both ... small wires on the selenoid.

turn the start key to ON one wire will have 12v measured against theengine unpainted body & none on the second one.

if you do it is a miracle.

Connect ONLY the wire which had the 12v to ONE of the control post of the selenoid...

take a NEW piece of wire & wire it on the other small control post and ground it to an unpainted section of the engine .

if it does run the starter while the key is at START your original selenoid ground source is no good ... needs a fix .... find solid ground via or not... any safety device & retest

if the selenoid does not activate the starter you have 6 options

a - BAD highly resitive volts from the key.. find & fix resistive path
b- BAD SELENOID internal winding ....no clicks
c- BAD relay contacts inside the selenoid... clicks but does not pass high
amps to the starter.
d- bad corroded - broken high amps red wire from batt to selenoid or selenoid to starter
e- bad starter
f- replace engine or find an old dealer

" patience brings joy"

 

[F_R]

1. Where are you grounding your meter neg lead?
2. Disconnect both wires from small solenoid terminals. Now check resistance (OHMS) across the two small terminals. Should be just a few ohms.
3. Alternately, with both wires disconnected, connect a spare piece wire between one small terminal and direct to battery + post. Likewise, connect a spare wire between other small terminal and battery - post. Solenoid should click.

 

[MiJust]

Basically , starter selenoid are just electro magnets to close a high amperage contact between in and out B+12v to feed the starter .

A) the internal winding must be energized to close the contacts
b) Internal contact surfaces must be clean and smooth to carry high amperage and release

based on your description of having to TAP the selenoid that was keeping the starter going after having your wife removed the the key it sure looks like the contacts are sticking shut .
Conversly a no start result from dirty contact points. Dirty eventually leads to sticky .
If.. you can open the selenoid and reach the main contacts you could try to polish them up as a test but the issue will likely return.

Bench testing unless done at the same amperage rate of the starter may be inconclusive. Think of a welder's welding rod sticking on the surface of a weld spot ! Simple clicking does not test the load and release characteristics of the contacts

an intermittent (open) ground would not cause the selenoid to HOLD it would prevent the magnet pulling the contacts shut.

what would hold up the relay is a permanent +12v on the START control wire.... which is unlikely because tapping the selenoid cleared the problem.

Marine selenoids are different from automotive ones make certain you have the correct replacement.

one reason for burning up relay contacts and causing sticky contacts is a high amperage load needed (or fed) to the starter itself . If you have a clamp-on meter try to measure that amperage while the starter runs .

has requested indicate your engine mdl /yr because different circuitries exist

1976, model 7067

disconnect both ... small wires on the selenoid.

turn the start key to ON one wire will have 12v measured against theengine unpainted body & none on the second one.

if you do it is a miracle.

Connect ONLY the wire which had the 12v to ONE of the control post of the selenoid...

take a NEW piece of wire & wire it on the other small control post and ground it to an unpainted section of the engine .

if it does run the starter while the key is at START your original selenoid ground source is no good ... needs a fix .... find solid ground via or not... any safety device & retest

if the selenoid does not activate the starter you have 6 options

a - BAD highly resitive volts from the key.. find & fix resistive path
b- BAD SELENOID internal winding ....no clicks
c- BAD relay contacts inside the selenoid... clicks but does not pass high
amps to the starter.
d- bad corroded - broken high amps red wire from batt to selenoid or selenoid to starter
e- bad starter
f- replace engine or find an old dealer

" patience brings joy"

Ok. Thanks sooo much. Will work thru that. Question: what are resistive volts and how are they identified?

 

[MiJust]

1. Where are you grounding your meter neg lead?
2. Disconnect both wires from small solenoid terminals. Now check resistance (OHMS) across the two small terminals. Should be just a few ohms.
3. Alternately, with both wires disconnected, connect a spare piece wire between one small terminal and direct to battery + post. Likewise, connect a spare wire between other small terminal and battery - post. Solenoid should click.

I am grounding my meter neg lead to an unpainted nut on the block. And ok, I will check items 2 and 3. Thank you.

 

[MiJust]

Ok, replaced the black ground wire. No change. Still have no crank and 12v to both small terminals.

Thank you for your help.

 

[Crosbyman]

Question: what are resistive volts and how are they identified?

travelling from A to B along a given path volts will drop of proportionnaly to the amount of resistance they face. this is electrical fundamentals discovered by MR. Ohms who wrote the book on today's commonly used
formulas to measure volts amps resistance (ohms) power (watts) etc...
AKA Ohms law

Ohm's Law, Ohm's Law Pie Chart

www.the12volt.com

a 12 volts supply passing via oxydized splices, welds, crimps will measure 12 volts anywhere along the wire as long as no current flows.

if you plan to fix this you need to answer yes/no to questions..do not deviate

Q1. on the 2 small selenoid control posts applying 12v directly off the batt + and a solid ground directly off the Batt- does the selenoid energize (click)
IF YES.... does the starter turn ?
IF NO.. dead selenoid

Q2. if the starter runs replace +12v wire only with the one from the START key in the ON position does the starter run ?

IF yes..... great replace the ground wire to the BATT- post and hook up a new one to the engine body (unpainted site)

If no.... +12v from the switch is no good check /redo all connections
bridge the BAT post to the S post on the switch . If selenoid clicks and starter turns ....bad switch if selenoid does not click +12v from engine to front switch is no good check / redo all connections backwards to the motor.

the whole process here is to track down a good BATT+v all the way to the front switch and back to the properly grounded selenoid. The selenoid electrically does the same as your manual key switch... it transfers batt+ to the starter via the fat IN and OUT red cables.

we can't fly this plane for you. Basic knowledge in electrical circuits is necessary . maybe a friend can assist you with this.