Re: Sticky rings??
If the decarb didn't improve things, you should pull the head. It's not a big deal (job) on those two strokes. You will need a new head gasket ($15) and a torque wrench to reassemble things.<br /><br />When you get the head off, you may see the piston top and cylinder walls looking fine (no scoring/scratches in the walls, no melting or pitting on the piston top). In that case, good, it's probably just a leaky/loosely torqued head gasket, button it back up & retest compression. <br /><br />Alternately, you may see broken pieces out of the top of the piston, so that you can see sections of the top ring. In that case, not very good at all. It's unsafe to run the motor further. It may (probably will) fail catastrophically, further damaging the cylinder wall and likely trashing the block & crank. At that point, the motor is no longer even an economically-feasible rebuild prospect.<br /><br />Lastly, you may see scored cylinder walls and/or some melting of the piston top (compare the 'bar' on the piston top with the that on the other cylinder), without chunks missing out of the top of the top ring groove. At this point, the situation is uncertain. It may be possible, in a pinch, to continue running the motor for the summer. You will do some further damage to it (make the scoring worse), but probably not much. For one thing, maybe 25% of the older outboards out there are running around with a scored cylinder wall. HOWEVER, if you go that route you need to be SURE you don't still have the problem that has caused the scoring in the first place. Most likely cause is a dirty carb jet - dirty carbs run lean, and lean two-strokes heat up. It's not enough to clean the outside of the carb (obviously), you'll need to disassemble both carbs and clean out all the passageways, particularly the main jets. A can of spray carb cleaner with the plastic hose is great for doing this. If the piston top is melt pitted, you'll want to do some extra tuning to lower the operating temperature in that cylinder. The best thing to do is run a richer (bigger) main jet on that cylinder. Retarding the WOT timing 5 degrees may help as well. Both mean your're running less efficiently, and fouling the air more, but as a measure to get through the season, it's maybe acceptable.<br /><br />I bet you've got an in-boat fuel tank that had old/dirty gas in it, and never got cleaned. I hate 'em. I give people a 30day refund offer when I sell used engines, but NOT to someone with an in-boat fuel tank