Still can't get engine to take the gas and run smoothly

[glennj3]

I overhauled the carb, changed the timing to 6 from about 15 it was at. Removed the carb again, went through everything and put back on the engine. With the ear muffs on, she cranks up and runs so well. The idle mixture needle still has to be out 4 to 4.5 turns to run. She cranks up and idles well, at 900 RPM she starts to stumble and gets worse as I increase the throttle and will choke off if I don't drop back to idle or shoot it back and forth to get the RPM up. Will take and run very well after I get up to 2000 RPM.
I did notice that the two aluminum balls that came with my kit were smaller than either one that came out of the carb. Also the accelerator pump seems right but moves smoothly.
What does an engine do if the fuel is old? This fuel is old but has sea foam and some other additives mixed in as well as some fresh fuel.
What should I do next?

 

[Bondo]

What should I do next?

Ayuh,.... Ya probably oughta get a can of fresh clean gasoline, 'n plumb it directly to the fuel pump/ fuel filter,....

Ya also probably oughta flush the fuel system from that point to the carb's inlet fittin',....

Ya probably should pull the carb again, 'n clean it too,...

Are ya usin' compressed air, 'n solvents to clean the carb, torn down,..??

 

[airshot]

Cutting corners on a carb rebuild will bite your a$$ everytime, it needs to be thorough and complete otherwise you could be pushing dirt from one place to another inside your carb. Always start out with fresh fuel including the tank and lines. When I do a carb rebuild, I clean out tank, lines, new filters, everything to be sure no new crud can get into my fresh rebuild. Also use a proper rebuild kit just taking apart and cleaning then putting it back together will get you everytime.

 

[glennj3]

The only thing I did not do was siphon the old fuel from the tank and replenish with fresh. I removed everything from the tank to the carb and replaced with new lines, placed a plastic see through in line boat fuel filter, removed and cleaned the fuel pump and it's filter, the carb filter is new, the carb was soaked in carb cleaner all night, flushed with spray cleaner, flushed with compressed air, used the new kit. I found no issues with it today, clean as a whistle.

 

[Silvertip]

How old is the "old fuel".

 

[glennj3]

It is an aluminum tank, I put in about 5 gallons of fresh fuel, it probably had 10 gallons. Old fuel is 2 years old !
I can see the fuel in the clear filter, looks good.
Maybe I can put the carb back on today and run the line to a fresh external tank and verify!

 

[glennj3]

Update, replaced the carb, connected a tank of fresh non ethanol fuel and ran until she should have had plenty of fresh fuel. No change at all that I could detect.
Carb is off again and in route to a mechanic!

 

[Fishermark]

...placed a plastic see through in line boat fuel filter, ...

You will need to remove that. It is a fire hazard and not Coast Guard approved. If you do not have a fuel / water separator I would encourage you to install one. That will also take care of filtering.

 

[glennj3]

This was a temporary tank just to verify if the problem was from bad gas, it is not. Hope to get the carb back from the expert soon! I will check into getting the separator, thanks..

 

[gm280]

I have to say it really sounds like carb problem to me. The fact that you have to turn out the idle mixture 4 to 5 turns is NOT right. It makes me believe you still have a plugged idle circuit in the carb. You get stumbling until you reach the high speed circuit and that takes over. So the low speed circuit is the problem in my opinion. JMHO!

 

[glennj3]

I had to pick up my carb, unrepaired due to the gentleman had surgery and is not working on them now. I have not been able to locate anyone that can or will work on it for several weeks.
Since I know the repair kit I used (the mechanic got this one for me) had two small balls, not two of different sizes as I had seen on youtube as well as that is what came out of the old carb. Sometimes companies update their product so I figured that is what happened.
Today using iboat.com and making verbal contact with them, I think I had the wrong repair kit. Should be in by this Tuesday, can't wait !

 

[glennj3]

Pulled the carb apart again, thinking for some reason, that the two balls inside were the same size but they were not. One aluminum, one steel of different size. I had placed them in the wrong port.
Now preparing to replace the carb and test on the muffs. I noticed that the rod with the spring that is supposed to stick up in the top of the carb (runs down to the power valve assembly) is not up there strong enough that it may fall loose after vibrating with normal use. That could also be causing me a problem.
I don't know of any way to secure or tighten it in place?
I hope this makes sense!

 

[glennj3]

Latest update. I got her running throughout the RPM with the idle needle at 2.5 turns. Seems the choke is a problem related to it running well.
It is very warm temp, but if I turn the choke to open it runs terrible. Set partially closed, mostly closed it runs good. It does not open all the way either. When I give it gas the choke plate closes some more automatically and takes the gas well. Having a difficult time getting all of that correct.
I have now found that the choke sometimes is difficult to move, even by hand. Feels tight and is not because the nut holds it at the carb. I never took the choke off. Other times it moves very easily.
I have more issues too, cracked baffle, water and oil mixed is coming out!

 

[Fishermark]

It is very warm temp, but if I turn the choke to open it runs terrible. Set partially closed, mostly closed it runs good. It does not open all the way either. When I give it gas the choke plate closes some more automatically and takes the gas well. Having a difficult time getting all of that correct.
I have now found that the choke sometimes is difficult to move, even by hand. Feels tight and is not because the nut holds it at the carb. I never took the choke off. Other times it moves very easily.

That indicates at the very least your idle circuit is not working right. Probably plugged up - maybe just an adjustment issue, but I doubt it.

The choke plate should move easily. The spring will affect the movement... but otherwise it should move easily.

I have more issues too, cracked baffle, water and oil mixed is coming out!

Not sure what you mean by that.

 

[glennj3]

Sorry, I meant I have a split in at least one bellow, the gimbal bearing one. I see oil mixed with water (milky color) dripping from the split. I plan to start removing it tomorrow! Can't one thing fixed well before I find more big stuff to do! It did sit up for 2 years!
Could the problem with not running well be the power valve assembly not functions properly due to the rod with a spring around it, ( it comes down onto the Power Valve Assembly, from the upper part of the carburetor) falling out of it's housing? It would not stay in very well and I don't know how to secure it up there.

 

[wahlejim]

While you are changing the u-joint bellows, change them all, and check the shift cable, it's coming out anyway. Inspect u-joints and gimball bearing while you are in there.

 

[wahlejim]

Milky oil in the bellow is not good, time to pressure test that outdrive.

 

[glennj3]

See my post on replacing all bellows. In the mean time I plan to remove the carb again. Something must not be clean enough someplace. I would just buy another one but I would have to rebuild it too (unless I spend the big bucks for one that has been rebuilt).