Stringer Concern.... Sea Sprite

[Woodonglass]

IMHO you are WAY overthinking and worried about getting the stringers installed correctly. If you measure them now it's a fairly simple procedure to reinstall them, You can make a stringer jig to help in the process. Here's a drawing... made from 1x3 pine. 2 or 3 of them will keep the stringers vertical and in the correct spacing. Make sure to bed them in thickened resin and put some 1/4" spacers under them so the wood doesn't touch the hull. Check this for more info...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[smiles16]

No Title

By the way found this on google. Same model as mine just 1 foot longer. NOT MY BOAT. Just attempted the upload from my phone and it WORKED. So, this will is my hull design and I will post pics of mine this weekend

 

[smiles16]

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Well fellas, I am over a month late on updating this post. However, finally ripped out the interior and drilled inspection holes... and boy oh boy how foolish I feel thinking I'd be one of the lucky ones.

Sure enough, drilled some 1/4" bore holes on the stringers mid-hull and found mush on top and nothing on the bottom. The foam is soaked, the floor was garbage, and the stringer skins are bowing outwards where they meet the hull (don't know how I missed that one). The only lucky thing I have going for me at the moment is the aft end is still solid and the stringers end just after the consoles so I shouldn't have to remove the cap.

So far, this boat's expense sheet tallies as so:
Boat and Trailer Purchase: $500
Engine Purchase: $500
Outdrive Rebuild: $600
Misc Maintenance: $300
TOTAL SO FAR: $1,900 invested

I list this because my total budget is around $3,000, so I have $1100 to burn.

Can you guys help with a shopping list for starters?

Due to the deformation of the skins, I am not too sure the nida-bond/seacast route is an option anymore (although digging out the old wood will be extremely easy now).

I am going to attempt to post a bunch of pics for review and to help other people who were "feeling lucky" like me.

 

[ezmobee]

You're still looking pretty good budget wise. $3k won't get you much if you were to try buy another one. Probably just another rotted pile of problems. So you if can get this one solid and running well in the neighborhood of $3k I'd say you are doing real well.

 

[Woodonglass]

This list may be of interest. You DON'T need 15 yards of 1.5 oz CSM 5 yards should be plenty You'll use it for the underside of the deck and that's about it.
View attachment iBoats MaterialsList.pdf

 

[smiles16]

Woodnglass, if I use polyester resin on the stringers, shouldn't I be using CSM for the initial layer and tabbing?

 

[Woodonglass]

You can but, the 1708 biax fabric has 3/4oz of CSM stitched to it and all the Pro's say that it's sufficient for proper bonding. I tend to believe they're right. I layer of 1.5oz CSM would NOT be a bad thing but would use more resin. Totally up to You. CSM is All that's needed for the bottom and top of the deck. If you get the 50" wide CSM and do both top and bottom of the deck then you might need closer to 10 yds. Every where else I'd just use 1-2 layers of 1708 and call it good.

 

[smiles16]

Thank you sir!

At the moment I am still cutting out the deck. I think I may have discovered a pair of shorter stringers on the outsides of the main two (about halfway between the main stringer and the side of the hull). Is this common and/or necessary? I have a suspicion this floor is not original as mentioned early on and I want to rebuild to spec since my quick fixes are out of the question now.