Stringer Repair

[NatedoggAZ]

Hello,

Continuation from the following post - but different subject:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...edge-can-i-cut

Some have seen the original pictures in that above post.

Here are the pictures from after removing what was left of that stringer.

There was barely any wood originally in that stringer - like almost as if Sea Ray really cheaped out on the wood that went onto it. It was mostly fiberglass.

Anyways... my plan is to get a 2x6 or whatever piece will fit in there and glass it in. I am just going to put it alongside the original glass line (you can see it next to the tank - has been ground down a bit) and secure it. I just need to find out how long of a piece and the angle of the hull to cut it at.

I still have to cut back a little more towards the motor. the motor does not sit on the stringer... it is offset on its own encapsulated mount that has not been compromised.

Any tips on the materials I would need to secure the stringer board onto the hull?
I hear of "PB" (not sure what's in it or if I buy or make it) to "glue" the board onto the hull..
Epoxies and resins.... maybe I can get these locally?

Thanks!

 

[Redtruck12]

You need to do a bit of reading.
start with the sticky (the bottom one especially) also read some of the ongoing build threads.
they will outline common procedures and also what “peanut butter is (it’s thickened resin)
before you get in over your head, do some reading! It will give you a much better understanding of what and how things are properly done

 

[Redtruck12]

“Capri 1750 complete restore and 9months to do it” is a very informative current thread

 

[Ike-110722]

Went through the same thing on my 1972 18' Sea Ray. I removed the old wood and replaced it with Marine Plywood. Two 1/2 inch pieces glued together with epoxy (to make it 1 inch (actually works out to about 7/8) . PB isn't actually Peanut Butter, it just looks like PB. It is a putty. You can buy it or make your own. I made my own. Epoxy resin and wood flour. Mix it until it is the consistency of PB. The PB is used primarily as a bond between the hull and the wood. It's very hard to get the wood to mate perfectly with the hull shape, and the interior of the glass is rough. Clean it up, roughened it up so you get a better bond and spread PB to fill the gaps between the wood and the hull. Then glass the wood in with fiberglass cloth (not mat) I used 4 oz. You can see what I did at http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/SeaRay190.html

 

[NatedoggAZ]

Having a hard time finding marine plywood... not too many places in AZ carry it apparently....unless I am not calling the right places. I can get it from 84 lumber - but apparently it is a special order item, likewise from Home Depot and Lowes..

 

[NatedoggAZ]

If I can't find marine grade plywood - what is the next best substitute?

 

[steve_h7]

I'm just going to use ACX plywood for my deck and seal the bottom and top side with csm.
Here's a link from the stickies that is a great place to start reading:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...lamingo-splashed-w-pics?p=5550980#post5550980

 

[NatedoggAZ]

Progress:

I spoke to my local 84 Lumber and they say they have ACX and/or BCX plywood for under $30 for a 4x8 sheet... looks like that will be my go-to...

I ended up removing the tank... although I REALLY did not want to.... I just didn't see any other way in glassing the stringer in properly. It was not too much of a PITA - other than that I had over 22 gallons of fuel in the tank. I hand pumped it all out via the back outlet that goes to the fuel pump with a $7 pump from Harbor Freight.
I had to get a $5 1/4 OD tube that was 10 foot long because the tubes the HF pump came with it were too short. I just fed the clear tube through the bilge and out through the transom drain plug hole...

This is how much gas was in that tank:
Filled up my car (was only 1/4 full)
Filled up 2 motorcycles (over a gallon in each)
Filled up a 5-gallon can (still full)
Filled up a 2 1/2 gallon can (still full)
Halfway filled a 1 gallon can
...and I can still hear gas in the tank sloshing around...

This side nearly ready for stringer and decking - but also more than likely going to cut out and replace stringer on the other side of the hoses as well.




Tank removed - any thoughts on replacing the fuel filler or vent hoses?
The end of the ski locker is going to have to be replaced including that portion of the decking...



This side has been mostly removed - about 80% - but no pics yet.
Tools of choice: Circular saw, angle grinder, multi-purpose tool, (not pictured are power drill with wire cup to remove foam and new 6.5a sawzall I got from Wal-Mart last night for under $20)

 

[steve_h7]

I can relate to your tank saga... I had to do the same. Mine was about the same size but it's for a 4 stroke outboard so I figure I have enough oil/gas mix for my weedeater for about 20 years. :joyous:

 

[NatedoggAZ]

Got (2) 4x8 sheets of ACX plywood last night for under $30 a sheet.

Hopefully this weekend I can begin to start fabricating my stringers and replacing the floor...

Now - any comments on the types of resin to use? - polyester vs epoxy resin?

I would like the type of resin that I can use for everything if possible - instead of having to get 2 different kinds... a multi-purpose resin for: gluing the boards together, making PB, and using it to layer CSM or 1708.

Any special brands I should target or best/cheapest places where to purchase the supplies from?

Thanks!

ND

 

[steve_h7]

Good price on the ACX. :thumb:
If the AZ in your username is for the state, shipping is a killer, but the low prices still make it better than most I've been able to find: Google U.S. Composites in Florida. Great products and excellent customer service. They'll call you if they think they can save you money on shipping.
Epoxy is stronger but comes with a bigger price tag. Epoxy can be applied to resin but resin won't stick to epoxy... or so I've read. That's the extent of my knowledge.

 

[Woodonglass]

I strongly advise against using the original Stringer channels. It does not give proper bonding for the Stringers which ARE the backbone of your boats hull. You should grind all the channels down to fresh glass and do it correctly.

Also it's highly recommended to keep ALL of your posts concerning one project in the same thread. Makes it a Lot easier for the members to follow along with all aspects of your build A moderator can combine them for you