Stumped on cooling system issue

dcf1999

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Water pump
 

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HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 8, 2005
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10,083
Manifolds and risers are nice and clean! (make sure you check for "flat" and replace riser gaskets!) If those are the original risers and manifolds, I would expect the block and heads to look the same.....

Raw water impeller is just fine.

I would want to check carefully for bubbles and flow-rate to the stat housing to eliminate it as a problem.

Also, pulling your risers was a good idea since it looks like there might be the start of riser gasket leaks. That's particularly bad because the leaking occurs right after shutdown. It allows a small amount of water to run into the exhaust and into any open exhaust valves, causing a hydrolock during the next start up if you try to start it right away. Once you get it running, any water is "blown" out with the exhaust......

If you don't start right away, the little bit of water will eventually get past the rings and end up in the oil. Not a huge problem since it does evaporate rather quickly once the engine gets up to operating temp.

The main problem comes when you park it for the winter with water in the cyl that had the open ex-valve......... then you get rust if it's wet in there for the winter!

If you have good flow with no bubbles, your stat is good and the circulating pump is good I would consider looking for sand in the block....

I think you could remove both side core plugs and flush with a hose and probably get most of it....
 

dcf1999

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Apr 2, 2011
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Sounds good. Well even the the water pump looks good, I’m replacing it anyways. It’s already torn apart and it’s only $100 for the kit. Cheap insurance since it’s only been replaced once. I’ll also do a 15psi pressure test to make sure everything is sealed up well.

I’m also going pull the rest of the drive and check alignment, gimble bearing, bellows, etc... I have to wait for parts to arrive anyways and that’s fairly easy job to do.

After i I get everything together, I’ll put a clear hose on and run to the lake to give her a test and do further observations. I’ll probably do that next week and will update with findings then. I may also put a clear hose between the housing and engine circulator pump and see what’s going on there (if tstat opens, I should see the weather flow into that pump).
 

dcf1999

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Stupid question, could you flush debris from the engine by, I guess, pressure flushing. What I’d do is first, remover the thermostat and all hoses from the tstat housing. Then with the engine off, inject a high flow of water into the engine circulation pump inlet. Run hoses from the remaining ports on tstat housing into a bucket to collect whatever debris come out...

it it would be easy enough to make a custom single port housing to fit where the the tstat housing is and back flush the engine. If any debris are loged in somewhere, the back flush may unlodge them.

Just an idea but I’ll cross that bridge if I need to.
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
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10,083
You might also have a look inside that oil (PS) cooler. Yours should only be a power steering cooler and as such, is not really much of a "block" for debris.

In a 454 Bravo, the engine oil cooler gets all the debris from disintegrated raw water impellers. (mine was crammed so full of impeller fragments I had to use needle-nose pliers to get it all out!!!) Yours may be completely clear, but there could be "stuff" in the associated hoses.....
 

dcf1999

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Apr 2, 2011
Messages
45
You might also have a look inside that oil (PS) cooler. Yours should only be a power steering cooler and as such, is not really much of a "block" for debris.

In a 454 Bravo, the engine oil cooler gets all the debris from disintegrated raw water impellers. (mine was crammed so full of impeller fragments I had to use needle-nose pliers to get it all out!!!) Yours may be completely clear, but there could be "stuff" in the associated hoses.....

Yea I called it an oil cooler but it’s the PS cooler. I didn’t realize it was open like that. I thought it had a honeycomb or fins that the water runs through that could get clogged up. But that was all open.
 

dcf1999

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Ok... so here is an update. I think I got her fixed (based on trying using hose and muffs).

I blew out about 1/4 cup of sand from the port riser using air gun.

I then hen purchased a gun that injects air into a hose stream (I attached a pic) and it produces a pretty high pressure stream. I modified a basic automotive thermostat housing and used a rubber coupler to create a nice seal for the water gun. Installed that where the thermostat housing goes and ran the water through block (water circulating pump removed) the water started coming out brown and eventually came out clear. I then used the gun to push water through the hose that goes from tstat housing to riser. Did this on both sides. Again, you could see the sand just come out of the drain plugs. Did this until I got no more sand out. Also noticed a good about of sand by outdrive (where the exhaust comes out) so I think I got a lot of sand out.

Now that I think about it, when I did the engine block, I didn’t have drain plugs out. I probably would have got more out if I had the plugs removed. It was a super easy procedure though so I can do it again next year with those plugs out.

I ran it with muffs and it got up to temp. Same hose got hot but not as hot as before. Risers stayed cold. Temp gauge indicated about 200 but alarm never went off. (Before the gauge would climb to 200 and alarm would sound). Used a thermometer and measured around entire engine and was reading 165 - - 170 consistently. So I believe it works but maybe my temp sender is bad. If I disconnect the wire at temp sender, the gauge will obviously go to zero but when I reconnect it, it would show normal for a bit and slowly climb up to 200. Nevertheless the sender is cleap so I think I will buy a new one.

Im going to lake test the boat boat this week. I’ll take the new sender with me and swap it out on the lake and see if that fixes gauge.
 

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dcf1999

Seaman Apprentice
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Apr 2, 2011
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Also, I heard or read somewhere about after installing a new sender, sometimes the gauge will still show the incorrect value and will need to be calibrated. Is that something? Can those gauges be calibrated?
 

dcf1999

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Apr 2, 2011
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To finalize this thread. Lake tested boat and it’s fixed. Gauge still shows hot but inferred thermometer shows 160 - 170 when engine is warm and no overhear alarm went off. Will add a resister to gauage to make it show normal.

Thanks for everyone’s help.
 
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