Subbing Out Transom Repair

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Subbing Out Transom Repair

I'm thinking in either selling her and adding another 15 - 20 k for brand new boat or fix it and use it for another season or two...

How much do you like the boat?
If you like the styling, the hull is in good shape, and money is no object, you could get her fixed up (remembering that a deck+stringers may be part of that) and re-powered with either a Merc or Volvo set-up.
Keep in mind, the boat would never be worth the money you put into it though.

If you plan on selling it as-is, please be honest with the buyer (and your self). In its current state, it's a project or parts. And its pedigree isn't highly regarded in the boating world. Disclose what's wrong, and price it accordingly.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Subbing Out Transom Repair

If the work is done correctly and with Care and Attention and If you really like the looks and lines of the boat and would be happy to own her and be on the lake with her, then investing 3-4 K in her knowing you'll have a Good Sound Seaworthy boat....I think there's nothing wrong with that. The big IF is the correctness and care taken when doing the repairs. As stated before That's why most of us do it ourselves cuz generally speaking, No One will do it like you would do it. No One.

Actually .. some of the pros can and Will do this for half the cost it would take you. ( and do it correctly the First time ) .. Lets NOT subject a glasser of unknown to limits of the dog pile please ..

I agree with you, however I have no place or time to do it myself...

Then You Should not go into this venture unless you want to spend more money then the boat is worth.

Its a Trailer Bayliner .. Gonna cost you a bunch of money Even if you had the time or place.

Ditch it asap.

Just IMO ..

YD.

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Subbing Out Transom Repair

Then You Should not go into this venture unless you want to spend more money then the boat is worth.

Its a Trailer Bayliner .. Gonna cost you a bunch of money Even if you had the time or place.

Ditch it asap.

Just IMO ..

YD.

I do not look at putting money in the boat the same way as you do. I think of the boat as an expense rather than an investment. If it will cost me a $1000 per year to enjoy being on the lake then I think this is acceptable. However, spending $20,000 on the new boat is a little too much right now. Therefore, I'm trying to find a way to keep this Bayliner running for at least a few seasons.

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Subbing Out Transom Repair

I found a few treads on using a SEACAST for transom repairs. Most of the treads are describing good results using it, but they all are for an outboard transoms repairs. Does anyone seen anyone using it for i/o setup? I think it might work in my case since engine mounts and stringers are in a good condition (tested by core drilling ).

 

[Bondo]

Re: Subbing Out Transom Repair

I found a few treads on using a SEACAST for transom repairs. Most of the treads are describing good results using it, but they all are for an outboard transoms repairs. Does anyone seen anyone using it for i/o setup? I think it might work in my case since engine mounts and stringers are in a good condition (tested by core drilling ).

Ayuh,... It ain't condusive to I/O transoms, as you need to preserve the keyhole, 'n need compressive strength where the I/O mounts...
Which is very close to the perimeter of the keyhole...

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Subbing Out Transom Repair

Ayuh,... It ain't condusive to I/O transoms, as you need to preserve the keyhole, 'n need compressive strength where the I/O mounts...
Which is very close to the perimeter of the keyhole...

I might be wrong but, I know for a fact that wood is very weak in compressive strengths, but good in tension, however epoxies are opposite. Also, when boat is running all forces are pushing into the transom and are transferred onto the stringers and motor mounts, so realistically there is not that much forces on the transom in the i/o setup... In other words, drive is pushing the engine, engine is pushing forward through the mounts to the stringers...

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Subbing Out Transom Repair

Also, when boat is running all forces are pushing into the transom and are transferred onto the stringers and motor mounts, so realistically there is not that much forces on the transom in the i/o setup... In other words, drive is pushing the engine, engine is pushing forward through the mounts to the stringers...

That may be the case with an older OMC stringer drive, however there is force being applied to the transom on a conventional I/O setup. Hence the need for 2" of ply, reinforced with fiberglass.

 

[Wind dog]

Re: Subbing Out Transom Repair

As a former mechanic I can tell you, if I'm working on your rig with you standing over me, #1 It's going to take longer & #2 It's going to take longer. Find someone you trust & let them do their thing.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Subbing Out Transom Repair

I might be wrong but, I know for a fact that wood is very weak in compressive strengths, but good in tension, however epoxies are opposite. Also, when boat is running all forces are pushing into the transom and are transferred onto the stringers and motor mounts, so realistically there is not that much forces on the transom in the i/o setup... In other words, drive is pushing the engine, engine is pushing forward through the mounts to the stringers...

Nope,... With the Cobra drive,... ALL of the load is applied to the transom, where the drive meets the transom...
Basically a 2" perimeter around the key hole...

The rear motor mounts are on the forward face of the drive,...
The forward motor mounts take None of the load....

The transom, bein' a solid part of the hull, transfers the load to the stringers, 'n hull...

Wood has Enough compressive strength to do the job, til it Rots..
It just needs to support the compressive sandwich effect of the outer, 'n inner drive transom housings/ plate...

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Subbing Out Transom Repair

Nope,... With the Cobra drive,... ALL of the load is applied to the transom, where the drive meets the transom...
Basically a 2" perimeter around the key hole...

The rear motor mounts are on the forward face of the drive,...
The forward motor mounts take None of the load....

The transom, bein' a solid part of the hull, transfers the load to the stringers, 'n hull...

Wood has Enough compressive strength to do the job, til it Rots..
It just needs to support the compressive sandwich effect of the outer, 'n inner drive transom housings/ plate...

It is good to know this... Thanks

Thank you for all the advices. next week I will have someone to look at it and the I will decide if it is worth fixing...