Suburban Towing capacity, conflicting info

scipper77

Commander
Joined
Sep 30, 2008
Messages
2,106
Re: Suburban Towing capacity, conflicting info

Sounds like truck can handle 8100 lbs when properly equipped but is only set up to tow 5k lbs.
 

Bifflefan

Commander
Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
2,933
Re: Suburban Towing capacity, conflicting info

ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, go with the lesser number. you can tow the 8100 lbs with the truck, with the correct hitch. But thats not the one. If the hitch is 5000 then 5000 is the max.
there is always a weak link, and you have to stay at or below that.
also remember that 10% of the towed weight should be tounge weight.
Never go above the rated weight of the lowest piece in the hitch or vehicle.
At best you can get a ticket, and have a big tow bill to get the trailer home.
 

lime4x4

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
1,040
Re: Suburban Towing capacity, conflicting info

what year?? 3/4 or 1/2 ton?? I have a 97 suburban 3/4 ton. My hitch is rated for 10000 lbs or 12000 lbs using weight distrubrution. I tow a 9000lb boat and trailer.
 

redone4x4

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Feb 28, 2009
Messages
1,548
Re: Suburban Towing capacity, conflicting info

sounds like you have a class III hitch, but need a class IV. that would bump it up to 10,000 tow capacity I believe.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,581
Re: Suburban Towing capacity, conflicting info

The hitch that comes with it can only tow 5000 unless you use equalizing bars.

That's the hitch's rating. Not the truck. I replaced my Suburban hitch with a better after market one.
 

Jimbrownle

Recruit
Joined
Jun 29, 2009
Messages
5
Re: Suburban Towing capacity, conflicting info

I've found that there is alot of confusion regarding hitch and vehicle ratings. The hitch and ball each have their own rating. The rating for the truck and the hitch may vary based on whether you are using a weight-distributing hitch.

The 5000 lb rating is the standard rating for a class III hitch, if it's not using weight-distributing equipment. Your Suburban can handle a heavier load with that hitch with weight-distributing equipment, or you can get class IV hitch which can handle a heavier load without weight distributing equipment.

There is a trailering guide that is product by Trailer Boat Magazine, which gives a pretty good description of trailering and hitch basics.
The link is here: http://www.trailerboats.com/images/elements/1389781_Chapter 3. GET CONNECTED.pdf.

The link connects to the chapter on hitches, but the whole guide is useful, even for veterans.
If you can't see the link, search for trailer boat magazine, and look for the tow guide on their website. They also maintain a database of tow vehicle ratings by model and year.
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,313
Re: Suburban Towing capacity, conflicting info

In the back of your manual there is a complete chapter on towing. It lists the individual axle ratings as well as the overall loading of the vehicle.

I have a 2001 Tahoe with factory "heavy" tow package. 5.3L V8 3.73:1 rear, autoride suspension.

It turns out that the 500 lbs listed on the hitch was also the max. weight I could put on the rear axle without overloading it. A weight distribution hitch would transfer the load over both axles so you could increase the weight carrying capacity without overloading the rear axle.

From the Chevy towing manual:

Trailering may be limited by the vehicle?s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight.

Consider the following example:
A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:

You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs
(1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well.

The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). But let?s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight.

Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR.

The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).

It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings ? GCWR,GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.

Before going out and buying a Class 4 hitch do the math. A Class 4 hitch may buy you nothing more than an overloaded rear axle.
 
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