surge brake bleeding.

[dgopetactical]

I have little experience bleeding brakes but I have never bled brakes on a trailer (surge brakes) I have directions how to do it with tubing and a bottle (hard way )but what I need to know is how to do it with one of those hand pumping vacuume units. how do you get the air out of the actuator pistons etc?
Thanks
Denny

 

[Arima90]

Re: surge brake bleeding.

I'm not sure with that system but I just had my wife rock the truck back and forth until I felt the system was bled well enough, that worked fine. Have the driver place tow vehicle in reverse, loosen bleed valve, then close quickly when fluid pressure drops. Have driver pull forward, place in reverse and repeat first step as necessary. Make sure you block the tires very well so she doesn't run you over.

This was after replacing the pads, not for a new system.

 

[External Combustion]

Re: surge brake bleeding.

A cable come along is safer than using a tow whehicle to pump the actuator, but the principle is the same.

 

[dgopetactical]

Re: surge brake bleeding.

I dont think I will be rocking my trailer to bleed the brakes. again my question is how to use the manual hand pump vacuume brake bleeder kit with surge brakes.
thanks again

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: surge brake bleeding.

there is a very good tutorial here. "http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html"

 

[Arima90]

Re: surge brake bleeding.

Sooo, trust issues with your driver? I understand your concerns and was just giving an idea. It was easy for us to do and didn't take but 20 minutes or so.

 

[dgopetactical]

Re: surge brake bleeding.

there is a very good tutorial here. "http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html"

I allready have all the info from champion and thats where I bought the actuator. It says nothing about using a pump. all you have to do is stick a prybar under the cylinder bolt and pump the piston(not as easy as it sounds) Better than trying to have your wife run you over LOL. I heard using a hand vacuume pump is easier. I Just want some input from people who have done it that way because I have not found any direction on how to use it that way other than cars that is totaly different and I would like to use the vacuume pump when I do the job. Thank you all for your input.
Thanks.
Denny

 

[45Auto]

Re: surge brake bleeding.

Main difference in your car brakes and trailer surge brake system is that on your car's master cylinder the actuator rod is attached to the brake pedal, on the trailer surge brakes the master cylinder actuator rod is attached to the hitch coupler. Other than that both systems work the same way. There are a couple of other minor mechanical differences associated with backing up but they don't affect vacuum bleeding.

Bleeding procedure with vacuum at the wheel cylinder works the same way on car or trailer, since the systems are the same. Start with the wheel nearest the master cylinder and work your way to the one fartherest away.

Cycle of four basic steps:

(1) Create suction at the bleeding nipple which is on the caliper.

(2) Drain MOST of the fluid from the reservoir by opening the bleeding nipple.

(3) Close the bleeding nipple while fluid is STILL COMING OUT and BEFORE the reservoir is empty.

(4) Add more fluid to the reservoir and start this cycle again. Memorize step #3.

Repeat until you don't get any bubbles in the bleed line.

 

[bjcsc]

Re: surge brake bleeding.

Yep, 45Auto is correct. Also be sure you have a container to empty the small container on the pump into as you go along. You will fill it many times while bleeding. Make sure to close the bleed valve is when you need to dump the container. I use a MityVac for flushing my brakes (and bleeding if necessary) and it works great. There is a button on it that releases the vacuum for dumping it, too...

 

[dgopetactical]

Re: surge brake bleeding.

Main difference in your car brakes and trailer surge brake system is that on your car's master cylinder the actuator rod is attached to the brake pedal, on the trailer surge brakes the master cylinder actuator rod is attached to the hitch coupler. Other than that both systems work the same way. There are a couple of other minor mechanical differences associated with backing up but they don't affect vacuum bleeding.

Bleeding procedure with vacuum at the wheel cylinder works the same way on car or trailer, since the systems are the same. Start with the wheel nearest the master cylinder and work your way to the one fartherest away.

Cycle of four basic steps:

(1) Create suction at the bleeding nipple which is on the caliper.

(2) Drain MOST of the fluid from the reservoir by opening the bleeding nipple.

(3) Close the bleeding nipple while fluid is STILL COMING OUT and BEFORE the reservoir is empty.

(4) Add more fluid to the reservoir and start this cycle again. Memorize step #3.

Repeat until you don't get any bubbles in the bleed line.

Thanks alot guys that the help I needed. How does the air get out of the piston in this prcedure? thanks again

 

[bjcsc]

Re: surge brake bleeding.

If you're talking about the master cylinder, most of the time there isn't much if any air in the master cylinder unless you've let it run dry while flushing/bleeding. If there is air in it, it will come out with the regular bleeding procedure most of the time, but sometimes master cylinders have to be "bench bled" first. If you're installing a new system / master cylinder it may have to be bench bled initially...