Suzuki DT25C Console to Tiller question

[LukeFishWalker]

I recently acquired a 1996 Suzuki DT25C outboard that was originally set up as console steering.
I had a buddy with an outboard that no longer runs with the tiller handle.
But his didn't have the starter or alternator, so I am going to use the starter switch that was on the control box.
I was able to install the tiller handle and adjust the linkage
My question is:
If the key is left in the " Run " position will it drain the battery?

Thank You For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[wrench 3]

It's a yes and no kind of answer. The key normally feeds the alarm buzzer but it was in the control box. Now if it was me I'd want the buzzer working. If the buzzer was operational it would be running and drain the battery.
But why would you want the key on with the engine off?

 

[LukeFishWalker]

First of all, Thank You Wrench 3.
Here's what I did:
There is a rather good sized plugin connection that is inside the cowl that went to the controls.
I left that connection, cut the wire going to the control box and soldered just the key switch to
and kill switch to the remainder of the wire. Essentially eliminating the buzzer that was part
of the wiring inside the control box. What I am now facing is the fact that the starter switch with
the key apparently is larger than a factory starter switch that is typically installed on tiller handle
models from the factory. The hole in the lower cowl is not designed to accommodate the control
box type starter switch.

Thank You For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[wrench 3]

So you're thinking of just using a push button start switch and the kill switch?

 

[LukeFishWalker]

Again, I want to thank you for taking the time to offer help.

My intention was to use the key switch and just make the hole in the lower cowl larger
to accommodate the larger bore key switch. But then another obstacle came up -->
The console key switch is obviously longer and gets in the way of the air silencer.
So, I was considering the idea of just leaving the key in the " Run " position and just
put some kind of waterproof aftermarket push button starter switch. And that's what
prompted the first question. I was kind of ashamed to admit that's what I was going to do it
that way but you saw clean through my vagueness. I applaud you for your hind sight.


Thank You For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[wrench 3]

Well, if you're not hooking up the alarm system there's no reason to have the key switch there at all. Just connect the black wire and the blue/red wire to the kill switch, and the white wire and the brown wire to the start switch. The remaining wires can be taped off.
I'm assuming that there's a manual choke on the engine.

 

[LukeFishWalker]

Once Again, I thank you for taking the time to help an old man.

That answers all my questions.
Yes, the tiller handle donor engine was manual choke and that's what I am going to use.
One more question please, without the factory starter switch - Will the charging system
continue to function and charge the battery while running?
Also, what wires are for the solenoid? I'm pretty sure I can find it by setting up the battery
and use the tester to find the power source and ohm out the solenoid.
But knowing what wire to use would eliminate the search.

Thank You For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[LukeFishWalker]

Never mind, I see what you wrote.
I got in late last night from New Orleans after a death in the family
and was just a little shaken up when I read your post.
Thank You For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[wrench 3]

Sorry to hear about the death in your family.

The charging system will continue working without a key switch. The wiring colors I gave you are for the remote side of the harness plug. If you're going to connect to the engine side of the plug the start switch would be the brown and the white/red.
I hope it all works out for you.