Swapping a basic throttle question...

[MAXXIE]

Hey everyone! Haven't been here in awhile. I have a question,(hope I'm posting in right area). I have an '87 Bayliner Bowrider with an 85hp Force O/B, The day I went to buy the boat the mech. was "fixing" the throttle. It was inverted for some reason,???, but still functioned. Anyway, the guy made it right & it has worked fine for the most part. I've always felt it was not going all the way to WOT for some reason, it just didn't feel as though it was getting there, it did not "lock" so to speak at WOT. My question stems from a recent trip to the local auto "you pick it" yard, while picking up the needed things for the work van I noticed way up in the back of the yard there were a few boats. I decided to make the trek up to them to see what was there. There were about 6 or 8 older, like 1960 to 1970's, boats up there. Lots of cool stuff to pick off them like old style rope cleats, electric air horns & other stuff. Most had the engine's in/on them along with the throttle's, & most moved quite smooth to my surprise. Now my '87 is a basic throttle, meaning it's N,R & D with the D being just a slide forward to WOT. No trim switches or anything else, just 1 or 2 cables out going to the O/B. I've found that several of the junk yard boats are very similar. Is it possible to swap one of these older one's in for mine? I don't really see a huge difference beside the name, they all seem to work the same way. Help please? Thanks, MAXX

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Swapping a basic throttle question...

NONE of the Force or Chrysler control boxes "lock" at WOT. The US marine control boxes have a plastic knob beneath the key or switch hole that adjusts the resistance of the handle to movement. Some boxes do have the annoying habit of backing off of WOT due to vibration and you must keep your hand on the handle.

With the engine not running, push the control handle to WOT and remove one of the carb covers. Look into the carb and see if the rear butterfly is open to a horizontal or nearly so position. Also check to see that the plastic stop on the timing tower is hard against the block. If so, the control box is working properly. If not, there are multiple holes inside the box and threaded adjusters on both ends of the cables. Go to the Chrysler/Force forum and look at FAQs: "Synchronizing timing and carbs" for adjusting instructions.

You can use a Chrysler control or a US Marine control. You can also use a Morse control if it is set up for the 10-32 threaded Teleflex cables. You can use the surface mount control box or the behind the gunwale mounted box with only the control handle and trim plate showing inside the passenger compartment. The main thing is to see how the cables attach to the control arms inside the box. If they have threaded adapters for the cables then they will work. Almost all the control boxes work the same way: pushing the handle forward first engages forward gear, then the throttle starts to advance. There are several different methods for locking out the shift so the engine can be started in fast idle position, but they really don't matter.


You MIGHT be able to modify a Mercury Quicksilver 3000 control box but it will be a little difficult so best to stay with the above mentioned control boxes.

You can NOT use old Mercury or OMC control boxes.

If you really get into a bind and don't mind traveling, you can come down here near Philly and I will help you.

 

[NYBo]

Re: Swapping a basic throttle question...

Sounds like the guy was unfamiliar with how the cables connect to a Force outboard. Unlike with other motors, the center cable stays stationery while the jacket moves the throttle and shift.

Never, ever question Frank C's advice on Force & Chrysler outboards.

 

[MAXXIE]

Re: Swapping a basic throttle question...

I'll need to take a closer look when the boat is unwrapped after the winter. I'm sure I can get more out of the motor with a well functioning controller, I'm far from experienced in this matter, but I just kind of know when something is not acting/working correctly & the unit that's on mine is not doing all it could. It's functional, just not as good as it should/could be. I just know/feel there is more I can get out of this. Thanks for the comments, I'll check to see if it's making it to WO at the carbs. Tanx again, MAXX