Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

[djpeters]

Hi, I have an outboard that only puts out 6 amps charging. Do you guys recommend the Blue Sea "Add a battery" or should I go with the basic 4 position switch? Can I do much charging with a 6 amp output? I don't fish, so the only accessories will be a basic stereo, small color GPS, lights, bilge (auto and manual) and an accessory outlet. No fishfinder or trolling motor.

Thanks.

 

[fucawi]

Re: Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

In your situation the VSR would be better ..accessories on battery 2 , starter on battery 1 ..reason I say this is you dont have to remember to do anything ...starter battery will always be charged first and your accessories will run on the aux battery when you are at anchor.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

There is a post two spots above yours that discusses this "two battery" topic to death as it usually does. With what you have to run you wouldn't even need a second battery since your motor can very likely be rope started. A six amp charging system is virtually useless on a deeply discharged battery. An example is the simple act of starting the engine. If it took 30 seconds of cranking to fire the engine you would very likely suck at least 6 amps out of the starting battery. It would then take one full hour of running wide open to replace just that current consumed in the starting process leaving nothing left for the second battery. A VSR usually has a trip point where it switches from the starting battery to the second battery. If it takes all the output to just keep the starting battery topped off, the second battery may never see any charging current. My suggestion is don't waste your money on any switching device. Spend it on a two output on-board charger and plug in at the dock or at home to keep the batteries topped off.

 

[Don S]

Re: Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

I agree with Silvertip.
Your 6A system puts 6A per hour back into your battery. If you had a standard 100AH (Amp hour) battery, it would take you over 16 hours of constant running to charge your battery back up. The charging system on a small outboard is for maintaining a charged battery, not for charging up a battery that is low.

 

[fucawi]

Re: Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

Well actually both of you if it charged at 6A for 1 hour ( 6AH) it would only put 80 % of that into the battery .....a 30 second crank at 100A is in fact 0.625 AH out of a 100AH battery.... but who cranks for 30 seconds ? 2 seconds is more normal so thats 0.04 AH so even at 6A your main battery will be up quick and you can supply your second battery even if a little slowly..

 

[djpeters]

Re: Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

There is a post two spots above yours that discusses this "two battery" topic to death as it usually does.

I tried my question there and was slapped on the wrist for hijacking (which I understand).

My suggestion is don't waste your money on any switching device. Spend it on a two output on-board charger and plug in at the dock or at home to keep the batteries topped off.

This makes perfect sense to me. Thank You.

I agree with Silvertip.
Your 6A system puts 6A per hour back into your battery. If you had a standard 100AH (Amp hour) battery, it would take you over 16 hours of constant running to charge your battery back up. The charging system on a small outboard is for maintaining a charged battery, not for charging up a battery that is low.

Thank you Don for helping me get my question answered. I don't consider my outboard small though at 140 h.p. (See sig.)

Now, I assume there are different on board chargers? Can you guys recommend a good two bank for my situation?

 

[Don S]

Re: Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

Thank you Don for helping me get my question answered. I don't consider my outboard small though at 140 h.p. (See sig.)

I did, but all I noticed (with a quick glance) was the 9.9 Evinrude ...... My mistake.

Can't help with the chargers, haven't worked with any for several years, and technology changes constantly.
Just get one that will not overcharge your batteries.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

Well actually both of you if it charged at 6A for 1 hour ( 6AH) it would only put 80 % of that into the battery .....a 30 second crank at 100A is in fact 0.625 AH out of a 100AH battery.... but who cranks for 30 seconds ? 2 seconds is more normal so thats 0.04 AH so even at 6A your main battery will be up quick and you can supply your second battery even if a little slowly..

It was an example: About 1/2 the boaters easily crank four or five times in 5 -10 second bursts. They do so for a number of reasons. 1) tired engine, 2) neglected engine, 3) self inflicted malfunctions, 4) lack of proper starting procedure. Not everyone runs a turn-key DFI/EFI engine -- at least where I hang my hat.

 

[djpeters]

Re: Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

Bump.... for a two bank charger recommendation...If I use my boat twice a week, is there one that can stay plugged in anytime the boat is a home and not worry about overcharging?

Thanks.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

Most current chargers have a float feature and they can be left plugged in 24x7 with no danger of harming the battery. I've used them for years. My boat and construction trailer have on-board chargers and when parked are plugged in. The only time they are unplugged is when the unit is being used.

 

[djpeters]

Re: Switch, VSR, Isolator, or Combiner for Outboard Boat

Most current chargers have a float feature and they can be left plugged in 24x7 with no danger of harming the battery. I've used them for years. My boat and construction trailer have on-board chargers and when parked are plugged in. The only time they are unplugged is when the unit is being used.

Thank You. I think i'm all set now.