Switching trailers in my garage with DIY lift

[cwella]

Hey Everyone,
Have a question I would love some feedback on. I want to lift my 16 foot Starcraft boat (motor off) that weighs about 6 to 700 pounds. I built a diy gantry crain that took the motor off no problem. Now I need to switch trailers and am thinking I can lift the back of the boat with the crain and if I build another smaller crain for the bow I can suspend the whole boat in my garage and switch trailers.

Im trying to figure out the best way to set it up. Do I add a rope hoist on the corners with a sling underneath or do I use the same chain hoist I removed the motor with using a 2x4 spreader. My concern is squeezing the hull and damaging the boat. Ive started to restore it and have gutted it some but the transom is still in. Whats the best advice for getting this trailer swap done.

Thanks a ton in advance

Be careful lifting the whole boat by the corners. Even at 600 to 700 lbs, the hull can flex or get damaged if the load is not spread properly. Using wide lifting straps with a spreader bar would likely be safer than chains or ropes pulling inward on the hull.

Support the weight close to where the trailer normally carries it, and avoid leaving it suspended longer than necessary. Lift it just enough to swap trailers and add extra safety supports if possible. Sounds like a great restoration project, good luck with the swap!

 

[Jimmy Starcraft]

Be careful lifting the whole boat by the corners. Even at 600 to 700 lbs, the hull can flex or get damaged if the load is not spread properly. Using wide lifting straps with a spreader bar would likely be safer than chains or ropes pulling inward on the hull.

Support the weight close to where the trailer normally carries it, and avoid leaving it suspended longer than necessary. Lift it just enough to swap trailers and add extra safety supports if possible. Sounds like a great restoration project, good luck with the swap!

Thanks, I have gotten some wide towing straps to use as a cradle and will use a spreader bar so its not compressing the sides. I'll be happy when this trailer swap is done.

 

[redneck joe]

Thanks, I have gotten some wide towing straps to use as a cradle and will use a spreader bar so its not compressing the sides. I'll be happy when this trailer swap is done.

follow the basics, itseasy. Have a celebratory beer ready

 

[Jimmy Starcraft]

follow the basics, itseasy. Have a celebratory beer ready

Was just out looking at it and what do you think about bolting a chain to the the transom using the motor mount holes. I could create a loop with the chain for the hoist to lift. The transom is in OK shape I'm still planning on replacing it during the restoration but thought this might be an easier way than a sling with spacers?

 

[redneck joe]

the transom will be fine the splashwell will hold fine

 

[Mc Tool]

far out man , we been talkin about this for ages now just get on with it so we can hear how it all turned out

 

[Jimmy Starcraft]

Finally had the time to swap my trailer. Used my diy crain lift and built an arch to lift from the bow eye. All went pretty smooth but I ran into issues I need some advice .

The bunks are 2x6 and outside edge to outside edge is 36 inches. The brackets I got to convert my load rite roller to bunks are 8 inches. They are set to the maximum height but you can see in the pictures my bow is touching the trailer frame.

Should I move the brackets outword so the bunks sit right next tho the outside strake to give me some extra height? Right now they are still a few inches inside the strake and Im wondering if that will give me the extra bow height? Or do I replace the 8 inch brackets with 10 or 12 inch brackets to get the height? I think Im looking for about 2 inches of clearance from the bow to the trailer frame? Is that correct? I would like to put a bow roller right about where its touching the frame now.

This site has been a huge help to me for myb first restore project so thanking everyone in advance.

 

[Chris1956]

OK, IMO you overkilled this issue. An aluminum boat w/o a motor is a real strong hull. You can drop it on the ground w/o issue.
e.g. My friend and his father used to take the motor off of their 16' fiberglass runabout, with a windshield and put it upside down on some sawhorses for the winter. The boat was maybe 300# and they were strong.

 

[Jimmy Starcraft]

OK, IMO you overkilled this issue. An aluminum boat w/o a motor is a real strong hull. You can drop it on the ground w/o issue.
e.g. My friend and his father used to take the motor off of their 16' fiberglass runabout, with a windshield and put it upside down on some sawhorses for the winter. The boat was maybe 300# and they were strong.

I hear ya but it was just my son and I so didnt have the man power, the rear lift I used to get the 70hp off earlier so needed to lift the front to suspend it to switch the trailers. Thx

 

[redneck joe]

if moving doesn't help, add another 2x4. Or double up 2x6 and stand on end.

and yeah you overkilled it, but why not?