So i got a new Tach. installed in my boat that didn't have one before but I don't know which wire is the sender. I have a 1994 18' Bayliner capri w/ a 1994 Force 120.<br /><br />The Seloc manual doesn't say or if it does I can find it.
There should be a gray wire that runs from the rectifier on the motor (gray wire will connect to the same terminal as one of two yellow wires), through the throttle control box and out again via the tach harness from the control box. Use an OHM meter to check for continuity from the rectifier to the terminal on the tach harness to be sure it is the right wire before hooking it up to the tach.
Thats funny My 88 says on the sticker on the motor that the Tach is Purple.<br />Your lucky that 94 is a 12 pole alternator. These older Force have 20 pole and the tachs are hard to get. Or at least the look you want.<br />But I got me 1 anyway.
Can't say for certain what the actual wire color is but if the mfr's follow the BIA or ABYC guidelines then the tach signal wire should be gray. Here are two images of the electrics for your ref. Not sure which version you have. The rectifier is #17 on first diag and #36 on second diag.<br /><br />
I think my tack is shot, it worked 1/2 the time until yesterday, now nothing. I checked all the connections on the back of the tach, good ground, good 13.5volts, and I get a variable voltage on the gray wire, from 6 volts up, depending on my rpms. The needle just sits at 0 on the tach. Is the variable voltage normal, and if so what is the norman range?
Does anyone know what voltage on the sending wire would equal what RPM's. I just checked my marina, $140 for a replacement tach. I was thinking of building a digital replacement in the old tachs frame, cheap and it would look the same, except have a digital read. Any thoughts or commements?
E-bay has tachs all the time for as little as $20.00 new. Usually lots to choose from. Got mine for $26.00 and works like a charm. I would have paid over $120 at the dealer.
