Tagged’s 140 Johnson Resurrection

spybot

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As above give them a soak with a penetrating oil. then just a case of going slow with an even force to get them out. Try not hitting the spanner with a hammer to get them started. We have all been there with a half bolt stuck some where. Best solution is try to drill out with a left handed drill bit and an easy out. Worst case scenario. Drill all the way to within a 1.mm of bolt diameter them hammer out with a needle punch. You can always get them out just a case of time.
 

Tagged

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Here’s the offending water passage. It’s a bad picture, but you can see the dirt inside.
 

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Tagged

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So patience isn’t my strong suit. “Quit being a Nancy and grab a wrench” is what the voices in my head were telling me.

I grabbed a very short wrench, and started turning bolts. Very lightly. 12 of the 16 came out without protest. 3 more we’re willing to be persuaded.

The last one? Well, discretion was the better part of valor tonight, and I called a truce. It can hang on for another day.

(I soaked them in pB Blaster for about six hours before trying anything, and the last one will soak another day. It will wiggle, so I spray it, then wiggle, then repeat)
 

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Tagged

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Each of the bolts that came out looks like this one. There’s some white schmoo on the bottom half of the bolt. Does anyone know if that’s an anti-seize or locktite compound from the factory, or is it corrosion?
 

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spybot

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as above have said. Now you have a wee sneak preview has to how much the cylinder bolts are going to be stuck.
 

Tagged

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Y’all are worrying me, talking about head bolts. I’m going to remain optimistic, for now. Maybe the mud dauber didn’t crawl very deep. I’m not pulling head bolts if I don’t have to.

We’ll see when we get there.

In the mean time, I’ll clean up these bolts. Wire wheel? I need to get one for my bench grinder. Recommendations?
 

spybot

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Wire wheel wise any will do the bolts will be a min of 8.8 tensile so just a bog standard wire wheel should do nicely. I would buy a couple of small wire hand brushes (like a tooth brush) One with stainless steel bristles the other with copper/brass bristles (not sure of the exact metal but a lot softer than the s/s one and a gold/brassy colour).
The only time you will have to pull the heads is if you suspect broken stuck ring. You can have look under the bypass covers to get an idea on condition.There other way is to do a Compression Test. You should do this as a matter of course to see how your motor compares to average. Just my way of doing things
 

Tagged

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Thanks, Spybot. Any concern about the wire wheel removing the protective coating from the bolt? These bolts are not stainless, they appear to be Grade 8 (3 marks on the head of the bolt) with zinc chromate coating (they're yellowish). I don't know whether the zinc will come off if I use a wire wheel, and since I'm going to use the motor in salt water, I want to make sure it's protected as much as possible.

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spybot

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If they are zinc coated i would just by the small hand brushes i was on about. Then use a decent loctite when re fitting them.
 

oldrem

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Y’all are worrying me, talking about head bolts. I’m going to remain optimistic, for now. Maybe the mud dauber didn’t crawl very deep. I’m not pulling head bolts if I don’t have to.

We’ll see when we get there.

In the mean time, I’ll clean up these bolts. Wire wheel? I need to get one for my bench grinder. Recommendations?

Sorry, thought you were also pulling the head. I cleaned mine up with a brass brush on my Dremel since I didn't feel like dragging the bench grinder out with my big brass wheel. As Spybot said, it would be advisable to do a compression test if you haven't already.
 

Tagged

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I did a compression test before I bought the motor. 90 psi on each cylinder, using my cheap Harbor Freight gauge. I don't know whether 90 is good or bad for this motor, but at least they're all the same.

The motor hasn't run since 2005, so the rings might not be seating quite right. I'm not really worried about compression, unless you guys tell me that motor is supposed to make much more.

Edit: That test was done on a cold engine, with the throttle plate closed, BTW. I know that's the wrong way to do it, but I was just trying to make sure one cylinder wasn't way worse than the rest.
 
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racerone

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Throttle plates do NOT need to be open on that motor for a compression test.------If this is a fresh water motor most if not all the bolts should come out easy.----Test compression with another gauge.
 

oldrem

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I did a compression test before I bought the motor. 90 psi on each cylinder, using my cheap Harbor Freight gauge. I don't know whether 90 is good or bad for this motor, but at least they're all the same.

The motor hasn't run since 2005, so the rings might not be seating quite right. I'm not really worried about compression, unless you guys tell me that motor is supposed to make much more.

Edit: That test was done on a cold engine, with the throttle plate closed, BTW. I know that's the wrong way to do it, but I was just trying to make sure one cylinder wasn't way worse than the rest.

I tested mine first with the HF one, then borrowed my son-in-laws good one. The HF was 22lb low. I read the reviews after and many found those to be off by as much as 30psi. They don't have a secondary check valve at the sparkplug hole end.
 

Tagged

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“Patience” for the win! Checked on that last bolt at lunch, and was able to nurse it out of there.

The thin passages between the gasket and cover are completely packed with Aluminium oxide powder, and will have to be cleaned out. But the main water passage between the gasket and the head looked good. My friend the mud dauber had only built her nest in the neck of the tube, and not inside the motor. So I knocked her mud out and blew everything off.

Ordering new gasket, and I’ll do the same on the starboard side.
 

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spybot

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Other folks with more knowledge than me on the V4s will hopefully have their say, but i think 90lbs is a tad low. My motor 1980 V4 85hp was sitting at 120,120.125,120 before i stripped her down. Hopefully the H/F is about 30lbs off. If not i would seriously think about checking out the bores. Minimum pop of the bypass covers to have a look see.
 

spybot

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Throttle plates do NOT need to be open on that motor for a compression test.------If this is a fresh water motor most if not all the bolts should come out easy.----Test compression with another gauge.

I would definitely follow racerones advice on this. At least you can get an average between the two.
 
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