Teak veneer plywood-seal, epoxy, varnish or???

Luna Sea

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May 20, 2002
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Ok the hard part's over. $125 for a sheet of 1/2" marine plywood with the teak veneer on it. Toughest part (besides the $$$) was finding a blemish free sheet. Water stains, fisheyes, scarving, damaged ends, geesh for that kind of money I was expecting perfect!<br /><br />Anyways, this is a replacement piece for the back of my Grady (17" x 8 feet), it will have teak trim around it but one of the ends has a small area of delamination. I was going to West System this area, but then someone suggested glue, so I figured I'd ask here. What do I use to keep the laminate down and treat the cut edges of this stuff with?<br /><br />Also, the previous owner said he used "Sikkens". I looked on their site and I guess "Cetol" is a product of Sikkens? I want to treat this plywood with the same stuff I'm going to use on the teak trim. Any other suggestions?<br /><br />And, cleaning this veneer, I'm guessing it can be lightly sanded (with the grain) using 180 or 220 grit? Please advise.<br /><br />Can this wood be "cleaned" with anything prior to applying finish?<br /><br />Can it/should it be stained or sealed as one would before varnishing mahogany?<br /><br />I still need to strip and/or sand the port and starboard panels as well.<br /><br />I appreciate the tips.<br /><br />Oh, and there is one more task, I have to cut 3 doors into this thing, I'll be tracing over the old piece. My choice to start the plunge into the 4 sided door cuts with a skillsaw or try to angle down the jigsaw without bending blade. Was thinking start with skillsaw and take over with jigsaw? Can't drill as I need the cutouts for doors.<br /><br />Sorry for the lengthy post but I'm nervous about cutting and/or damaging this expensive piece of wood. Thanks in advance
 

njmako

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Apr 3, 2006
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Re: Teak veneer plywood-seal, epoxy, varnish or???

I have seen some nice projects done with Honey Teak from Signature Finishes, it is expensive but over a couple of years it makes sense then redoing the teak each year.<br /> http://www.signaturefinish.com/index.php?topic=Honey+Teak+Testimonials <br /><br />On the link above there is instructions on cleaning and application which can be applied to any finish you choose.<br /><br />As for the doors, I would try and first get as many cuts from the wood using the factory straight ends of the sheet of plywood. Instead of plunging the jigsaw into the wood, or starting with a Skillsaw, can you lay out trace out a couple of pieces on the 4X8 sheet of plywood and start with a 1/4" drill bit on the outer line of your traced out door. Then insert a "fine" jigsaw blade in the drill hole and cut out the pieces. Place the drill bit hole at a corner which you could start 3 or 4 cuts one for each door.
 

Luna Sea

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May 20, 2002
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Re: Teak veneer plywood-seal, epoxy, varnish or???

That does look nice, may be out of my budget though, but thanks, I bookmarked that site.<br /><br />The access doors I'm cutting into the 17" x 8' piece are surrounded on 4 sides by wood, thus the need to "plunge" the circular saw. No more $ for specialty tools in budget either, except for a sander. I've done that before, but not with the expensive stuff. I'll find a practice piece first!
 

Luna Sea

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Re: Teak veneer plywood-seal, epoxy, varnish or???

I guess West System for the cut edges and to repair the small area where the veneer is starting to lift?<br /><br />No ones used any type of durable finish on this?<br /><br />Thanks,
 

Paul Moir

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Nov 5, 2002
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Re: Teak veneer plywood-seal, epoxy, varnish or???

I've got an experimental piece of varnished epoxy over teak. So far so good but it's only been a year. The spar varnish would have to be sanded and reapplied yearly, since it's UV blocking properties diminish with time. I've got some straight varnished peices too - after a year and a half the varnish is showing it's age from being scraped in places. No lifting though.<br /><br />It's important to drive out oil from the surface before applying any sort of durable finish to teak. I use acetone to wash it. Try a test scrap first though - no telling what it'll do to the plywood's glue.<br /><br />Search this forum for "teak epoxy". There's some good information out there. Personally I don't use West System because of the cost. East System, Interlux, etc, are all far less expensive and just as good IMO. Interlux is naturally very thin epoxy, which I think would be an advantage.<br /><br />Sounds like an interesting project. Keep us up to date!
 

Ian Knox

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May 10, 2006
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Re: Teak veneer plywood-seal, epoxy, varnish or???

HI,<br />doing same thing for countertop and faceplate. using table saw, then jig for rest. one hint - score the veneer with utility knife re: splinter of veneer.
 

Boomyal

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Aug 16, 2003
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Re: Teak veneer plywood-seal, epoxy, varnish or???

Originally posted by Ian Knox:<br />one hint - score the veneer with utility knife re: splinter of veneer.
Great tip. I will tuck that one away for future use. Especially if you do not have the ideal fine tooth crosscut blade.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: Teak veneer plywood-seal, epoxy, varnish or???

you are cutting plywood use a plywood blade, don't crowd it or it will get too hot. draw your template on the back side and cut from the back side. this way you don't splinter your finished face.
 
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