Temperary engine binding

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brynifer

Cadet
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
28
Re: Temperary engine binding

yes, I agree with these possibilities, I don't really know if it was the powerhead or the lower unit. What ever it was, for now at least, it was temporary. Whatever went wrong on the water the other day is gone now.
I'll pull it apart this winter, hopefully, I'll find the cause.
 
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Elbo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
136
Re: Temperary engine binding

What oil ratio are you using.Sounds like lack of lube to me.Just a hunch.
 
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brynifer

Cadet
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
28
Re: Temperary engine binding

I thought checking the sparkplugs would be a good idea. As I said previously, they are hotter then the recommended flush gap plugs and they are the standard gap type. Years ago I had a 69 115 hp evinrude which did very well with these plugs.
Three of them looked too clean, maybe a result of the higher heat range, one plug was a dark gray and had what I think are baked on deposits. The firing end had a sand papery look and feel to it. Maybe this is a result of higher heat range also but, why is it different from the other three? I think next in line would be a compression check.
I turned the flywhee by hand with no sparkplugs to see if I felt or heard any kind of knock or hard spot but it turned perfectly.
I reinstalled the plugs and started it. Since that stalling, knocking episode, it's running better then ever. Smooth and quiet (relitivly speaking)
I know it's just tempting me to take it out into the bay again, so it can shut down for good and leave me stranded. I Just have a feeling.
 
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Elbo

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
136
Re: Temperary engine binding

The only thing i can suggest is the condensers.When they get hot, the spark gets weaker and weaker.They are in there with the points.It takes 25,000 volts to jump a spark plug gap. The cond. is what does that.There is no amperage so it won't kill ya. Its dc.Those old cars we drove to school would do that ,but at least our girlfriends were with us when we got stranded.LOL
 
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brynifer

Cadet
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
28
Re: Temperary engine binding

I need to obtain an ignition tester, the motor has no points or condensers , so it's probably a weak coil. There is one for each cylinder.
 
nymack66

nymack66

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 5, 2009
Messages
356
Re: Temperary engine binding

Here is some simple testing you can do, buy one for each cylinder and connected in line you clearly see if you are dropping a spark during the issues you mentioned.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4424
Do a cold and hot compression test, instructions are posted on this site, Log the numbers both here and in your service log book.
Also PLEASE remove the heads it will only cost you new gaskets, you will however get a clear picture of the cylinders and piston conditions and pro actively catch a potential problem before it escalates to a power head lost.
The noise you mentioned can be a simple faulty pack (double fire) or bad gas the worse can be a sticking ring or scoured cylinder wall, bad rod bearings its the reason I recommend you pull the head.
Do a compression test again after installing the new gaskets and post your findings.
 
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brynifer

Cadet
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
28
Re: Temperary engine binding

Thanks for the info. It may be a while but I'll repost when I have results
 
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brynifer

Cadet
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
28
Re: Temperary engine binding

I started digging into this engine alittle, compression showed between 150 and 160 on all cylinders.
I built a spark tester, all four coils were able to jump 1/2" gap with no problem, however, I noticed some kind of fluid running down from under the flywheel near the carbs, I found that both charge coils are split open and had leaked this fluid on the engine. I can't help but wonder how the ignition was working at all. Problem now is why did this happen?
 
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jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: Temperary engine binding

Spark is good, compression is good but stator has heat damage.

The wrong sparkplug can cause overheating, most of us steer away from NGK and go with the champion listed in the service manual.

So you'll be needing a stator but still...you haven't nailed the cause yet.
I'd say wrong sparkplug, air leak or fuel restriction.
Might be a good time to get the factory service manual so you know what you're doing.
www.outboardbooks.com
 
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