Re: Test wheel
I have one that I use on V4s. An 85/100hp is supposed to pull at least 4800rpm on it. Pre-1986 115s will pull around 5400 rpm. I run them with the boat on the trailer, at the ramp. I really like them - lets you wring out the motor while you listen to it, check the cooling, set the WOT timing, etc.. I got mine off eBay for around $40.<br /><br />The idea behind a test prop is to produce drag with as little thrust as possible, so when you run in a tank you don't immediately throw all the water out. You can cut down a standard prop & get the motor to run 5500 rpm, but the thrust would be higher. I plan to try that sometime, and will post the diameter to cut it down to. <br /><br />I guess the problem with running the counter-rotator in reverse might be that the control box wouldn't let you hit WOT in reverse. Assuming the control box did let you up the throttle so that the ignition was fully advanced, you could get the rest just by pulling on the carb linkage. It'd be a little hairy getting that close to a WOT V6.<br /><br />Even the V4s make a racket on the test prop, at WOT with the cover & airbox off. The wail is incredible. I test at a deserted resevoir on the CT/MA border, where I typically am not bothering other boaters/fishermen. Last Spring, I finished up running a 115 on the ramp at WOT, shut down, and 30 seconds later a bald eagle swooped down & nailed a fish maybe 100 yards behind the boat. I guess I wasn't bothering him much, or maybe the sound stunned the fish.<br /><br />If you've got an old prop around, I'd try just cutting that down. Make the cuts the same on each blade, so that the prop stays reasonably in hyraulic balance.
