Thanks everyone! ‘84 115 TOP rebuild going!

[ianmoore]

I’ve looked over it a few times and didn’t see anything, but I’ll give it a good look when I get back next week

I decided to buy a new inner cover. I talked to a couple of local old techs who said that if the motor was run in salt it is general practice to replace these

 

[Chris1956]

The inner cover bolts were epoxied into the block at the factory. They will be hard to remove. Since they are a precision fit, you do not want to break any and need to redrill and tap them.

Maybe try a torch to burn the epoxy to get the bolts loose? Impact driver?

 

[Texasmark]

The inner cover bolts were epoxied into the block at the factory. They will be hard to remove. Since they are a precision fit, you do not want to break any and need to redrill and tap them.

Maybe try a torch to burn the epoxy to get the bolts loose? Impact driver?

" Impact driver?" I have a farm and have been working to keep semi-antique tractors and implements in usable shape. I can't tell you how many "situations" my air and electric impact tools have gotten me out of....It's amazing....you have a fastener that won't budge with all the manual force you can exert.....put an impact socket on an impact tool and hit the trigger....sometimes the fastener spins free faster than you can comprehend and get your finger off the trigger. I'd take that before heat because I wonder what would/could impact something else that I didn't want damaged.

 

[ianmoore]

The inner cover bolts were epoxied into the block at the factory. They will be hard to remove. Since they are a precision fit, you do not want to break any and need to redrill and tap them.

Maybe try a torch to burn the epoxy to get the bolts loose? Impact driver?

I was actually able to get all of the inner bolt covers off. I don't know if someone had done a previous rebuild and not epoxied them.

I did a bunch of reading and talking to people, and general consensus was that these plates should be replaced as they are under enormous stress, especially in the salt. The baffle i am getting is from a freshwater motor. I will obviously check it with a straightedge.
I redid all the seals in crankcase as well.

I want to get block back together without any more water intrusion. If this doesn't solve it, i don't know what will.

 

[ianmoore]

I was actually able to get all of the inner bolt covers off. I don't know if someone had done a previous rebuild and not epoxied them. I am going to redo them with Locktite 2422.

I did a bunch of reading and talking to people, and general consensus was that these plates should be replaced as they are under enormous stress, especially in the salt. The baffle i am getting is from a freshwater motor. I will obviously check it with a straightedge.
I redid all the seals in crankcase as well.

I want to get block back together without any more water intrusion. If this doesn't solve it, i don't know what will.

What is the best modern substitute for the Resiweld that is used for the bolts on inside cover?

 

[Chris1956]

I would think red locktite would substitute. Blue would also probably work and would be easier to take apart again, if you think that is a possibility.

 

[ianmoore]

I would think red locktite would substitute. Blue would also probably work and would be easier to take apart again, if you think that is a possibility.

I’m going back and forth with that. It is an important decision because it’s hard to get back into this area if I need to again.

And, I can’t prove it but I do wonder a little bit if the rebuild done without the resiweld contributed to the water in the cylinders issue, and possibly to even losing cylinders.

I have locktite 2422, which seems like it may be a better option for that area.i also have the red. But is loses efficacy at higher temps

 

[Chris1956]

You could also mix up some epoxy.

 

[ianmoore]

You could also mix up some epoxy.

I am trying to understand why Mercury used the resiweld. I am assuming it gives the bolts more resistance to the heat/cool cycles and vibrations than the 271 does. But i wonder if there is anything special about this formulation? Ive emailed both Henkel, who made resiweld, and Locktite, who made a product that some rebuilders were using for this. Hopefully i can get some info.

Its funny, because there is a lot of info about these engines and the rebuilding of them, but it gets pretty thin around the exhaust areas. Seems that folks don't mess with it that often.

Having water leak into my cylinders with the fresh rebuild while following owners manual has me looking at this a lot more carefully. I now understand this is a common issue on these old Mercs, and i want to do everything to make sure I am not dealing with it, after all the time and the total rebuild i've just undertaken