the hardest wiring question ever

boltbreaker

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Aug 31, 2004
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76
The motor is a 1987 Johnson VRO model J40ELCUD that has no spark. <br /> I've got three knife switches disonnected by the solenoid. One of them goes to the temp sensor(tan?) <br /> The other two are also a "tan" color but look like the same shade, so I assume that they go together.<br /> The other problem is a missing triangular ABC connector on the opposite side of the VRO. The connector is present going to the VRO, but gone with the wires cut on the other.<br /> I have three wires. One is black, the other mayber a shade of purple or grey, and the third is kinda of a "tan" color with three wires going into one just before it's cut.<br /> My clymer manual shows the following combo<br />A Grey<br />B Black<br />C Tan<br /><br />The VRO side connector has wires that are grey, black, and tan(same color as temp wire) but the ABC order is different and I have a knife switch from the temp sensor that goes who knows where.<br /> If someone knows the answer to this or takes the time to answer it I'll be amazed.
 

DHPMARINE

Captain
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
3,688
Re: the hardest wiring question ever

Heck,let me jump right in.The wires you speak of don't affect spark,they just deal with warning horn alarms.<br /><br />Look at the connectors from your power pack.Disconnect the black/yellow wire from the connector.If you now have spark,the problem is in the boat wiring.If still no spark,you have sensor,charge coil,powerpack or other problems with engine components.<br /><br />DHP
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: the hardest wiring question ever

No problem for us to take the time to answer a question of any kind. What is the question? Is the connector cut from the engine's wiring harness or from the VRO?<br /><br />Sounds like someone has eliminated the VRO's warning system or/and possibly did away with the auto fuel/oil mixing setup.<br /><br />Did you just recently obtain this engine. If so, I'd suggest you contact the previous owner to find out why those wires are cut. The three wires that connect from the engine's wiring harness to the VRO are:<br /><br />Purple = 12 volts when the key is in the ON position.<br /><br />Black = Ground connection.<br /><br />Tan = Sensor (Leads to warning horn).<br /><br />Note that a "Gray" wire would lead from a rectifier connection to the tachometer sensor terminal. There should be no gray wire in the area you mention.<br /><br />The above wires have nothing to do with the ignition. To check the spark, have the spark plugs removed, rig a spark tester so that you can set a 7/16" gap, disconnect the large main RED electrical connector at the engine. Crank the engine by manually engaging the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.<br /><br />If you now have spark, the usual problem is a shorted ignition switch, in which case, replace the switch.
 

boltbreaker

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
76
Re: the hardest wiring question ever

Figured the wiring out. Thanks for your help. I disconnect a fused wire on the back and she still didn't have spark. I looked down at the controls and the laynard switch was disconnected(I'm glad this in annonymous) :) :) <br /> This is the first motor I have completely rebuilt, so I couldn't help but start the darn thing before doin the carbs. The extra money spent on boring and bearing kit PAID OFF. She's as smooth and as quiet as I've ever heard an engine. Kinda had a sound like an american motorcyle, lub lub lub.... :) :) :) <br /> I went ahead and pulled the carbs apart to clean out the gum and they're soaking now. I'm not sure if the bottom of the float bowl has a passage in it or not... it looks like it's severly plugged if it does. I tried taking the brass loose but the sides broke off. You wouldn't happen to be framiliar with these carbs?<br /> thank you so much again<br /> Jeff
 

marinemech

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Messages
250
Re: the hardest wiring question ever

don't touch the brass in the center of the carb body these are pressed in<br />in the bottom of the float bowl behind the screw is the high speed jet remove theses and make sure they are clean <br />bombardier engine tuner seems to work well for cleaning the brass parts
 

boltbreaker

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
76
Re: the hardest wiring question ever

The passage in the bottom bowl sure was clogged! I soaked it in carb cleaner for a couple of days and couldn't get 150 psi of air to free it. I had to use a thin piece of wire to get it unplugged. I'm letting is soak again overnight and plan on trying to blow a little more air through it. I'm still kinda "iffy" about it being completly clean. Will keep you updated!
 

fireman57

Captain
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
3,811
Re: the hardest wiring question ever

Hey boltbreaker you are just up the river from me. I'm in Posey county Ind. Are you from around Lawrenceville? We need to get together and hit the Wabash if it ever goes down this spring. stephens57@peoplepc.com
 
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