Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

boobie

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

You can also drill some holes in the back lower part of it to get a socket and extension through it to remove the thermo hsg bolts. Then just plug 'em when you're done.
 

CaneCutter79

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

You can also drill some holes in the back lower part of it to get a socket and extension through it to remove the thermo hsg bolts. Then just plug 'em when you're done.

I rather like that idea.

Got any suggestions on plug types or what to use as a plug? I can't think of anything.
 

boobie

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

They usually sell those rubber plugs at most parts houses.
 

CaneCutter79

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

I know which ones you're talking about. Thanks boobie. That's a good idea.
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

Your engine sounds strong in the video. That 85 engine is a flatback. Should not be that difficult to get into the thermostat housing mounted on the exhaust adapter. I don't pull the powerhead on my 79 85 hp Johnson. On that older model (pre-VRO), you can loosen the lower cowl and move it around to gain access. It's the bubble back (140 and later 115 crossflow engines) that are hard to work on. It is possible that both stats are bad, but also possible something is going on with the nylon pressure relief valves. Check them out for heat deformation when you open up the housing. Your engine should come up to the 140 temp range when idling. Once you get up on plane and the pressure relief valves open, it is likely that your block/head temps will run at 115 degrees-even colder sometimes in the cold water you are running in. You will get some water out the exhaust ports at the top of the midsection at idle. When on plane, it should be two huge streams of water.
 

James R

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

Here is an interesting perspective. I have rebuilt many motors and I can say that some of them would not run on 25:1. I had to run them on max 32:1 and go real gentle for some hours. They even hated 32:1 but I persevered. I avoided max RPM until I had at least 10hours on them and then brought them up only briefly until at least 20hrs. A pain I know but they are good motors now.
Everyone has their ways I suppose but thase motors would not run on 25:1.
 

CaneCutter79

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

Thermostats test it out fine at 140 degrees just like they are supposed to do.

Any other thoughts or suggestions of what to look for as I calls for the motor to run at a low temp?
 

CaneCutter79

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

Bump...

Anyone have any ideas where else to look if spark is fine and thermos test good at 140 degrees?
 

trendsetter240

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

It might be related to those nylon water deflectors alluded to by emdsapmgr but I don't know enough about motors with them to comment.

You could try running the motor without the thermostats in and take temp readings then. If the temp is exactly the same as with the thermostats in then I would replace them with new ones, even though they test out ok in the boiling water test.
 

CaneCutter79

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

I plan in replacing the thermostats anyway. They are old and due a replacement.

The plastic things that were next to the thermos looked fine to me. I think they hold the springs.

The water diverters are inside the head and I'm not taking them off to check unless my mechanic says I can. He can do that when I take it back to him. I tested the thermos and he wasn't surprised they tested good. That's why he didn't replace them.
 

CaneCutter79

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

So I am going to replace my stator. I've decided since it's weak but still barely within tolerance, it's only going to get worse. I found an old thread on this forum where the stator could give a weak signal when the motor warmed up. I'm going to replace the stator anyway so.....

What will I need for removing the flywheel and replacing the stator? My manual is kind of vauge. I know I need a gear puller and a socket for the flywheel nut, etc. Do I just hold the flywheel when lossening the flywheel nut?
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

When trying to hold the flywheel in order to loosen the flywheel nut, be careful not to use any other bar that will wedge against the engine-easy to break something. (Like the flywheel pointer.) I use an automotive type flywheel holder/turn bar to hold the flywheel while turning the nut off the top with a breaker bar. A 3-legged automotive harmonic balancer puller will get the flywheel off. Probably can rent one a the local auto parts store.. Once you get the flywheel nut off, tighten the puller on the top of the crank, then give it a good rap or two with a hammer. That should break it loose. Be sure to retorque at 100-105 ft lbs.
 

CaneCutter79

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

I got the new stator on yesterday and my cold start issue is a thing of the past. Fouled plugs however are not. I ran the motor about 8-10mins yesterday according to my GPS unit.

The boat is slow to get on plane until about halfway and then what assume are fouled plugs kick in and the motor runs good. Come off plane and it jumps on plane unless it sits for a while or if you let it idle for more than a few minutes.

I'm thinking the final issue is fouled plugs? I replaced the rectifier as well. I'm going to get new plugs after the break in but was hoping to avoid buying two new sets of plugs but I guess I must.

So fouled plugs? Or should I check the coils or output of the new stator? I have a DVA meter now. Just no clue how to use it. :)
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

The original factory service manual will have ignition test values. You can also find test value information at this website: cdielectronics.com. The cdi website has included cranking output voltage values. For instance, your new stator should output at least 150 volts when cranking. There is also a specified voltage output for the timer base. These voltage ouptuts should be measured with the DVA. I find that method (as opposed to ohm readings) to be easy to use and usually a very reliable failure criteria.
 

CaneCutter79

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

I'm not sure I know how to use my DVA. It really didn't come with any instructions or a manual. My repair manual uses the old-school tools that are no longer used and it really doesn't relate to the newer DVA meters. I do have another repair manual that I will reference. The meter i have is not digital, it has an analog needle for readings. Any tips on how to use the DVA meter? Maybe some online instructions?
 

AlTn

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

reread post #54
 

CaneCutter79

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

So it turns out that I replaced the stator and the cold start issue didn't stop. After further testing, the carb had trash in it causing the low speed jets to flood the carb bowl. Then it went to the carb vents.

Long story short.... I cleaned out the carb and now its running good.
 

AlTn

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Re: Thermostat bad or weak stator fouling plugs?

alls well that ends well, as they say..glad you got it
 
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