This followed me home....

[java230]

I just wish that others who do these sort of shoddy repairs could see what damage they caused down the road.

I have faith that you'll get things done right and another decade will be no problem.:thumb:

I wouldn't worry about there being anything catastrophic happening, if there's going to be a problem, most likely you'll know as leaking will start off small and become more each time out.

Send me a PM the next time you go to Chelan, maybe can meet up. :happy:

As do I, but live and learn I guess. Still can't decide if it's worth putting foam back in. I don't think it's enough to keep the Stern above the water.

I thought I have seen a calculator somewhere on foam volume to weight it will float anyone know where that is? I can't find it now.

I'll be over in Chelan in Aug, at one of the boat in camp sites by 25 mile. I'll PM you

 

[jbcurt00]

62lbs of flotation per cubic foot of 2lb pour in foam

 

[java230]

62lbs of flotation per cubic foot of 2lb pour in foam

Thank you! I'll do a calculation and see what I can get. I'm guessing xps is a bit less?

 

[Watermann]

Couldn't hurt to replace the foam since some of the existing foam may have some water content in it.

 

[java230]

Couldn't hurt to replace the foam since some of the existing foam may have some water content in it.

I'm carving it all out since it is soaked. But I don't think it was originally there.

Made a template and did the math,i can get 1.15 cu ft per side, if I fit it perfectly. That's hardly any flotation...

 

[hayko1971]

I think the foam will also displace water. By my reckoning,the more foam in the hull the less space for water to accumulate. I'd rather have a broken hull full of foam and whatever water that can fit than a broken hull filled entirely with water. For me the foam is there for emergency purposes if I punch a hole in the hull. I would replace the foam.

 

[java230]

I guess that's true, every bit helps. I cut up what I had laying around. I made a hot knife, works good, but hard to make nice cuts. Melted the handle after a while... I'll have to grab some more foam.

 

[jbcurt00]

Somewhere theres long list of calcs ending w 2" rigid sheet foam floats about 60lbs per cubic foot too.

140lbs of flotation is 140lbs of flotation (1.15cf per side is 2.3cf~140lb+/-)

 

[classiccat]

We're going to have to get creative to find places to stuff/secure the foam board.

I would consider adding some to the sides under that shelf...then cover it with either a sheet of aluminum or 1/2" marine ply:

You can also fit some under the gunnels, console, splashwell and bow-plate.

 

[java230]

Yeah... The bow is completely full. That's factory still it appears. No way I can get to it. Not wanting to fill the gunners at the moment. Too much useful storage there. Under the splash well is the only other useful storage also..

 

[Watermann]

On another note just remember that besides the foam there's all the other material in the boat that is lighter than water including the fuel tank. It all adds up in the end. Adding what you can in the way of rigid board where you removed the foam should add enough to keep her afloat.

 

[java230]

On another note just remember that besides the foam there's all the other material in the boat that is lighter than water including the fuel tank. It all adds up in the end. Adding what you can in the way of rigid board where you removed the foam should add enough to keep her afloat.

That is true, 30 gallons of fuel floats pretty well.....

Some pics of the progress.
Yucky wet foam. 41lbs removed total... Turn out there are drain holes at the stern between the outside edges of the stringers and the center section.... They were just filled with foam! Arrg.

Making progress.

Only have to make 83 more little triangles....

Cutting with a knife got old. So I made a hot wire cutter. Worked well for stuff I had laying around. It did melt the plastic end eventually.... Its also hard to cut a nice triangle with it. They are not very pretty but do fit.

Got all the foam I had cut up. You can see the not so pretty ones....

Then we had a fun little issue at work and I haven't gotten back to it.
Thats a gas line, 8" under grade (not the 24" required!) and poured in concrete. it got broken.

 

[java230]

Foam all in now. I got 2.5 sheets of 2" in under the deck in total.

86 of these stupid little triangles.

Plus the front bits.

Floor doesn't run all the way under the transom, PO had carpet in there on top of the old foam. It was wet.... I cut two pieces of MDO to put back there. One side hold life jackets, the other fenders spare prop etc.

Floor is all back in!

And foam hot knife V2.0 worked awesome. So good that it was lighting the foam on fire Foam cutting station. With foot rocker switch to be able to keep the temps under control... The 6 amp battery charger was not keeping up with the discharge, it was hot. Less than one trash bag is the entirety of the waste from 2.5 sheets, Not bad.

 

[java230]

Well I took it out for the first time today. It was really choppy, weld cracked... I need to figure something out here to reinforce the joint. Lap joints and aluminum don't get along apparently...

Anyone have ideas? A few plug welds maybe?

I didn't 5200 the little holes. I may and see if that stops it. Not wild about that being my fix, but not sure what I can do with the weld.

 

[Watermann]

Oh man that's really bad news;

Fixing cracks is one of the Starmada's strong suits. I guess you found out the hard way about welding. If you look through some of the threads, you'll see that most of our repairs come in the form of patches of formed AL back buttered with 5200 and riveted in place over the crack that is stop drilled on each end. It's an ugly looking repair if your under the boat but very effective. Most of us cringe at the sight of welded repairs knowing that it's insanely difficult to weld thin AL so it doesn't crack again or cause more problems. Patch repairs also protect the affected area from an impact that a weld just can't do.

I think drilling out the holes and using a closed end blinds with the 5200 is the best way to make that sort of repair.

 

[java230]

Yeah it sucks...

I think I am going to going it all the way down to fresh metal and try again. If that cracks again I'll look at a patch. My hull is a fair bit thicker than starcrafts so I'm hoping welding will work.

 

[GA_Boater]

That's a bummer, java. I'm no expert of this stuff at all, but I wonder if an inside backing plate might stop the re-cracking.

 

[java230]

That's a bummer, java. I'm no expert of this stuff at all, but I wonder if an inside backing plate might stop the re-cracking.

Unfortunately the Crack is between an added plate on the outside of the bow, and the original hull. They drilled some little tiny holes up under the bow when it comes was plated. i think that's where the water gets in.

So the Crack doesn't go through to the inside. It's weird.

 

[java230]

Well its all back apart....

I 5200'ed the crack on the bottom, I need to use the boat and don't have time to do the full on grind and weld right now. I also 5200'ed the drilled hole under the bow. And buttered up a piece of 1/8x2" aluminum strap and 5200'ed it to the inside across where the cracking is happening. Might stiffen it some?

Got the floors in the storage areas in the back.

And ordered a backup blige for incase something bad happens..... I will try to get that installed Thursday. New 1 1/8" through hull and 2000GPH pump. It will be switched only I think. I haven't quite decided yet. I have a auto one that's 750 GPH

 

[Watermann]

Tap her light Java and hope for calm water. Lake Chelan last weekend was an absolute zoo on the lower end. Boat chop was almost unbearable with wind added to it the lake was super rough with 3 - 4' multi directional waves being very common.

Good thinking on the back up bilge pump, that monster 2k pump should do the trick if things do happen to go sideways.