This is driving me nuts!

[lisfisher]

Hello all, I have a 1994 Evinrude model E10ELERB, 9.9 HP. Runs fine with the ears on or even in a 55 gallon water barrell. Get it to the open water and she runs horribly. Have to keep twisting the throttle back and forth to keep it running. Runs better with the choke halfway pulled out. Carb, fuel pump were just rebuilt 2 weeks ago, apparently that was not the issue. Replaced coil and put in new plugs, still no good. I don't understand why it would run great in a barrell but not under load on the open water. Ball in fuel line stays hard. This engine once had electric start but I removed the leads because I use the pull rope only. That said, would a bad power pack cause it to run poorly even though there is no battery hooked up?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

Assuming that you have proper compression and spark................

If the engine runs normally when someone constantly pumps the fuel primer bulb (acting as a manual fuel pump), then suspect a failing fuel pump. If there is no change in the running, suspect that you have overlooked something within the carburetor. Let us know what you find.

 

[lisfisher]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

The primer bulb seems fine and stays hard so I don't think that is the issue. How do I check for sparK?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

I didn't question the fuel primer bulb, I was questioning the fuel pump or carburetor. The primer bulb should not stay hard with the engine running if the primer bulb is lying in a normal horizontal position... the fuel in the bulb should drop to a halfway point. However.......

To check spark, remove spark plugs, hook up a spark tester (available at most automotive stores) to the plug wire(s) whereas you can set the spark gap to 7/16". The spark should jump that gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP!

 

[lisfisher]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

Ok I will try that. Do you know if the power pack plays a role even though there is no battery involved? Fyi, the primer bulb seems to be a consistent pressure, I could usually give it about 1/4 of a squeeze at all times.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

That's always possible as are the wires etc leading down from the timer base under the flywheel.... but it's best to follow a normal trouble shooting route first rather than to jump into a part replacement route.

 

[lisfisher]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

Ok thanks Joe, I will get the spark tester today. I'm assuming when I pull the plug/s and attach them to the tester, the end of the plug should not be touching anything?

 

[geoffwga1]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

You don't connect it to the plug.The tester takes the place of the plug with one end in the plug lead cap and the other end grounded.
Geoffwga1

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

If you have a problem fining a suitable tester, here's one you can easily build.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

 

[lisfisher]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

Just found something very interesting- I pulled the power pack off and the bottom bolt goes through a ground terminal that sits against the engine. The terminal was caked with corrosion pretty badly. I can't see how that would have been a good ground at all. I will report once I get everything back together and test again. What concerns me is how accurate "testing" is when I put the engine in a 55 gal drum full of water, as I said it seems to run fine in that but when I travel one hour away to long island sound she doesn't run good at all.

 

[lisfisher]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

Got everything back together. Tested spark, spark is good on both cylinders. Fired right up , idled roughly for a while, heard some skips, sneezes but continued to idle untill it just stalled out. I will do a compression test tomorrow. Aside from that , I don't know what's left! Maybe the slow speed idle screw is out of wack.

Just did a compression test, compression is excellent in both cylinders

 

[lisfisher]

Re: This is driving me nuts!

Took apart the carb again this morning, this time blew it out with the compressor , also set float height which I should have done to begin with, started right up, no misfires, sneezing or stalling , sounds real smooth. With any luck it wil stay that way once back in the water!